IGT S2000? Door Open M & Bill Validator Stacker Door Open Errors

[Austin]

Hi Guys,

First time poster.  I recently acquired an IGT "Five Times Pay" machine model number: 96435800.  Best I can tell from reading other posts, it seems I have an "S2000" model?  My apologies if I'm posting this under the wrong model...  Date on label says 9/01.

I'm pretty good with mechanical and electronic systems but this is the first time I've ever attempted to work on a slot machine.

My machine has these symptoms / errors:

1) Door Open M
2) Bill Validator Stacker Door Open
3) No sound.

On the bill validator door: Someone in the past has apparently attempted to bypass the door switch on the collector box.  The wires to the switch have been cut and are tied together with a wire nut.  So I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this if the switch is a normally-closed type switch as the contact is already effectively closed.  Bill validator model number appears to be WBA-13-SS.

On the Door Open M error:  From other posts I can see that this means the main door or the belly door are not closed.  The belly door has a switch I can manually push in/out, so it doesn't appear to be that one.  The optical sensors are firmly out of sight when the door is closed, so I don't see a way to determine whether or not these are lining up when the door is closed and the latch is down.  I have tried wiggling the latch up/down a little, but no joy.

On the no sound symptom:  I got into the settings menu and was able to determine that the volume levels are not zero.  Maybe no sounds are played while errors are present/unresolved?

I would love to find a service/repair manual for my machine if such a thing can be had.

Would be very appreciative of your advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve these errors as I'm anxious to play with my new toy!

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Shaggy]

Hi Austin and welcome to NLG. First of all with the power off and the door open can you pull the MPU board (in the metal box on the left) out and take a look at the battery and see if it has leaked acid on the board? Acid damage will cause lots of troubles with errors. Sounds like the cash door is bypassed correctly.

Dave

[cowboygames]

If your bill validator switch is bypassed, which most all home users do, and you're getting door open M, I would suspect that the green Varta 3 cell battery on the MPU has leaked and damaged the traces for the door open tell tales. With the machine off, pull the MPU, located on the lower sidewall inside the machine, and inspect that battery. This is a common problem and the first place to look in your case with the double errors. And you're right, until you clear those errors the game won't make any sounds

[cowboygames]

Sorry Shaggy, I was typing while you were, but not as fast

[therockinelvis]

Is this machine new to you? Has it worked since you've had it? Did you buy it broke? I agree with starting at the MPU and that darn little green Varta battery. When you close the door, does the display go blank then give the error or just never change?

[Shaggy]

Sorry Shaggy, I was typing while you were, but not as fast

Looks like we're all thinking battery. 

[shortrackskater]

 

Do all that! It's likely what Shaggy and Cowboygames said.
Also is your machine a slant top or upright? If it's a slant top, god forbid, there's another door you might have to deal with. Can you post 1 picture of the front?

[Austin]

Hi guys,

Sorry for the delayed response.  Been engrossed in a work project and am just now getting back to important things like fixing my toys!

Thanks very much for all your suggestions.

I pulled the MPU card and looked for signs of battery acid damage around the green Varta battery.  Didn't see anything suspicious looking around the battery.

What I did notice was an ugly looking 1000uF capacitor on the daughter board attached to the main board.  It clearly needs to be replaced. 

I will try to upload some pictures of the MPU board, the capacitor I found and the front of the unit.

@ therockinelvis, Yes the machine is new to me and has behaved consistently (broken) since I first powered it up.  It was given to me as a form of payment by a customer, so I didn't know what condition it was in when I brought it home.  Opening and closing the door, playing with the latch etc. doesn't seem to make any difference in what the display is showing.  Initially I was thinking that there must be something wrong with the optical door sensor, or the alignment of said sensor. 

I don't have the experience to do board-level diagnostics, but I have replaced a few capacitors and resistors over the years, and I do have a de-soldering iron.

Given that at least one cap needs to be replaced, what do you think?  Should I just go ahead and proactively replace all of the capacitors on the board(s)?

I see two kinds of batteries:  The infamous green Varta, and another coin-size lithium battery.  Both appear to be soldered on.

Should I look for identical batteries and capacitors, or are there some new-improved replacement components you'd recommend I use?

Have a great weekend all!

[cowboygames]

The varta battery can be removed and discarded, it's not needed on your board and can be a source of problems in the future. The soldered on coin battery can be replaced with an exact match or you can get a solder-in holder and standard coin battery for that one, it's the same as what they use on computer CPU's. As far as your errors, and you won't get any sound till they clear, mark the position of both optics with a marker on the outside of the cabinet then close the door and see if the lines match up. Your stacker door error may not clear until you can get the door optics adjusted/replaced/bypassed

[therockinelvis]

You can remove the daughter board to use the machine. It only adds extra sounds. You need to check the optic alignment as stated. Also using your cell phone camera point it at the cabinet optic and you should be able to see it flashing. Check that door optic has red and white wires and cabinet has red and black wires. I have received machines with 2 receivers or 2 transmitters (won't work).

[qbert]

While you are at it check the voltage of the round battery it should be at least 2.9v or above.

[Austin]

You guys are the best...

OK, so I removed the daughter card (sound card) with the bad cap.  No change to the Door Open M, Stacker Door errors.

Drew some marks on the sliding latch mechanism in the door and on the chassis to see how the sensors line up.  When the door latch is not yet touching the chassis, the mark on the door latch is slightly lower than the mark on the chassis.  But when the door is fully closed, the marks seem to line up better.

Tried viewing both optical parts with my cellphone camera but did not see any flashing.  Also tried a digital camera and didn't see any flashing either...

The optical part in the door has red & black wires, the one in the chassis has red & white.

Measured voltage of the coin battery (while it was still attached) and it was about 2.85.  Could the battery voltage contribute to the Door open errors?

Is there any way to disable or bypass the optical door close mechanism?

In case it may be helpful, attaching some more pictures of the MPU board model # and chip #'s.

Thanks again all!

[therockinelvis]

It has been my experience many times with this double error that the board has gone bad and replacing it was the only cure. One last thing for you to do is open the bill stacker door and see if there are 2 wires attached to a switch just inside the bill door. If yes, remove both wires and strip and join them together with a connector or tape to bypass that switch. Let us know if that takes care of the stacker error. 

[Austin]

Good to know.

It looks like my bill stacker door switch has already been bypassed.  The green and blue wires that go to the sensor are crimped together already.

I'm certainly not opposed to obtaining a whole new motherboard.  To that end, a few questions related to replacing MPU's:

1) From my recent searches today it looks like there are multiple generations of MPU boards for the "S2000" product.  Should I try to find an exact duplicate of the one I have, or would it be best to look for the newest/last revision?  If so, what's the best MPU card for an S2000?  My current MPU appears to be a Model 75510504B.

2) Are the EEPROM chips & Audio daughter card on my current MPU board compatible with newer revisions of MPU boards?

3) Do any of you guys have a known good MPU card for sale?

Thanks again!

[cowboygames]

If your camera doesn't show a light on the cabinet side optic you may have bad optics. The bill validator stacker error can't reset till the optics work and clear the circuit. Rather than buy optics you can do a simple bypass instead. Here's the link

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=313.0

And change that battery, it's not causing problems yet, but it will soon

[cowboygames]

Or buy a bunch of parts and probably still have the same problem...

What I'm saying is, until you know for sure what the problem is, don't buy anything. Get the door circuit working and your sound will probably work fine also

[Austin]

OK, makes sense.  I'll try the door optic bypass trick.

Where does one find the "cherry switch" ?  Is it behind reel #1?

[cowboygames]

If it's not right on the inside edge of the cabinet frame near the optics then there should be an unused one mounted in the center of the back wall of the BV housing

[brianfink]

Before you do the optics bypass I would splice the wires together for the belly door switch even if the switch clicks when you close it it may still not be working properly. Also if you are able to open the belly door switch then you should be able to short the metal part of the optics together with a piece of wire just touch metal to metal belly door switch must be open for this to work.     

[Austin]

Good news... I now have a mostly working machine!

So I started tracing the door switch & sensor wires and realized that some wires must connect to other things behind the top glass.  There is a sheet metal panel just below the glass that I was able to remove, which let me remove the glass. 

Behind the glass I discovered some wires that had been disconnected...  The speaker wires on both sides were disconnected at their respective connectors.  So I plugged those back in and shut the door.  Voila!  The whole thing came to life!  At first I thought it was the speakers that made the difference, but then I attempted to reinstall the glass and the sheet metal panel.  That's when I discovered that the minute that metal panel was installed, the Door M error was back...

So after a bit of fussing with the metal panel, I got it to sit flush in a way that keeps it from interfering with the closing of the main door.  Guessing the panel must have been interfering all along.

Four new issues observed:

1) The "Play 3 credits" button doesn't always work.  Probably need a new one of these?
2) The coin comparator appears to reject both new and old coins about 30% of the time.  Guessing there are some instructions in one of these posts for how to train it?
3) The button that does the payout function has a label that reads "Use Cruse Card."  So I would like to find one that says something more straightforward.
4) One of my reel strips (#1) has a big dent in it.

The machine does indeed make noises without the auxiliary sound board (with DSV00042 module in it).  Now I'm wondering what  extra sounds or functions does the board add?

Battery and capacitor en route, so I will replace those for sure.

So it looks like I'm in pretty good shape, just need some cosmetic things, a new 3-Credits button perhaps, and fine tuning on the coin receiver unit.

Oh, and now that I've seen the "Titanic" theme available for this machine, I really want to find the parts to convert it.  If anyone has or knows where I can find them, please message me.