Green Battery Removal

[codeman00]

I think I remember Buzz telling me to remove the Green battery on my board of my IGT S2000 Triple Diamond Haywire....if left, it can corrode and ruin the motherboard.  I found another thread that noted the same thing.  Before I cut it out, I want to be 100% sure that its okay for me to remove the battery?  Please let me know!

Why is it on the board if its not needed?

[Harvs]

I think I remember Buzz telling me to remove the Green battery on my board of my IGT S2000 Triple Diamond Haywire....if left, it can corrode and ruin the motherboard.  I found another thread that noted the same thing.  Before I cut it out, I want to be 100% sure that its okay for me to remove the battery?  Please let me know!

Why is it on the board if its not needed?

It all depends on what board you have.. 500 series it can be removed, 1270 enhanced needs it..


On the 500 series, it is not needed for home use. If it looks to be in good shape, not leaking, I would leave it.. You can create issues by removing it sometimes. Optic issues in my case..

[codeman00]

I'll pull the board out and take some pictures and see what you think.  That way I can get help ID'ing the board and evaluating the battery condition too.  Thanks for the reply.

[foster]

The Green battery powers what is called a tattle tale circuit which monitors the following doors for Casino Security:
Main Door, Belly Door, Cash Can door, Drop Door

The only thing is it does not report them until the next time the power is restored and a host computer polls the machine for tilts or errors.
With the number of cameras a casino. I doubt any employee would dare open a machine without property authority to do so anyways.

[codeman00]

Here is a picture of my board and up close shots of each side of the battery.

[Harvs]

Ok, that's a 500 series board. Personally I would keep that battery on, it looks to be in great shape. You can remove it down the road when you see any signs of leakage.


Just make sure you check it 5-25 times per day for ANY changes.. Ha, Just kidding! That looks like it'll take years to become a prob. 


    

[Buzz]

Oh I agree with Harvs on this one !!  That Green battery is like tits on a Male and doesn't do anything but boy it sure looks good on that board. I mean why remove the battery now when we can wait until it leaks all over the board, eats up a trace and you get a door open error that won't go away. Then we can tell you how to solder a wire to bypass the bad trace or even where to buy another board.
 
Preventive Maintenance ??  Not on NLG, it's against the rules  !!!

[CVslots]

Preventive Maintenance ??  Not on NLG, it's against the rules  !!!

Yah, how am I supposed to sell any parts if we keep telling people all these secrets!?!?!? 

[Buzz]

I'm just a SOB and no way around it. Years ago I tried to change but it's in my DNA

[erbs]

REMOVE THE GREEN BATTERY.It will leak in time and ruin the board. Chances are you will not have an issue when removing the battery on the 500 series board.

[Harvs]

I agree that at some point it should be removed.. But from the pics it shows no sign of leakage, damage, corrosion, or anything like. I guess it could leak, corrode, or mess up traces overnight, or in the near future.., I've seen crazier things..


I ripped the battery off of my Super Spin Sizz 7 right after I got it from Bettor and had an optic prob after that. Had to bypass the optics in that case.


Just my 200cents..

[mvco]

The trick is to be very careful, and gentle when removing that green battery.  My first time, I accidently scarred the board with my wire snipper pliers, causing damage to a trace unedr the battery, ruining the board.  Very easy to accidently damage.  Now, I take my time and remove them very gently, cutting the battery legs a bit higher up from where they meet the board so I do not accidently F up a trace.  :-)

[Badbaud]

Remove the board from the tray.

Turn it over and find the battery's 3 PC pads.

Apply a little solder (or some solder flux) to the single lead on the battery, heat it enough where you can pull on that side of the battery and it comes out of it's hole.

Then do the same to the two legged side, one leg at a time, heat it till it comes out a little, then the other side until it comes out a little.

Repeat until the battery is completely removed.

It looked like you had some venting on the negative lead.

[codeman00]

It looked like you had some venting on the negative lead.

Venting?  I'm curious to what this means. 

Also, it sounds like a couple of you say no...while the other say no sarcastically or say hell yes take the battery off.  I didn't realize it was such a controversial topic.

[cowboygames]

It's not controversial, there are just varying opinions on it. End of the day, it's not needed, it CAN and WILL leak eventually, so why leave it there? However you see fit to remove it that you feel presents the smallest chance of damaging the board in the process is how you should do it.

[codeman00]

It's not controversial, there are just varying opinions on it. End of the day, it's not needed, it CAN and WILL leak eventually, so why leave it there? However you see fit to remove it that you feel presents the smallest chance of damaging the board in the process is how you should do it.

I understand.  I guess I will move it down on the importance on my "To Do" list and get to it sometime down the road. 

I like the solder heat trick...I didn't think about doing it that way.  Thanks Badbaud.

[Badbaud]

That whitish grey scum you see near the battery is a mist of chemicals that IS eating away at your board.

I have had to fix at least 6 boards in the past year where the battery leaked to the point the traces around it were eaten up.

It doesn't just POOF leak, it out gasses slowly at it's weakest link and eventually crystalizes around the metal contacts.

[Buzz]

I suppose if someone was watching me remove one of these battery's they would get real upset. It takes about 10 seconds or less. Using the tool in the top picture, by the way it's the same  tool I use for removing eproms from a board. Using that tool, bust the metal lug from the negative side of the battery. I start with the neg. side because it only has one leg. With the neg. loose from the battery wiggle the battery back and forth a few times and the Pos. legs will break flush with the board. Wiggle the neg. tab back and forth and when it breaks flush with the board your done.
 
Maybe I should add Foster says you must solder a jumper between the two pos. post. I don't and have never had a problem, but maybe he's right and soldering a jumper is a pretty easy thing to do.
 
Oh that tool came from Harbor Freight, a set of 4 use to be a buck and a quarter, I see on their webb site they are up to two bucks now.

[erbs]

If you are not able to desolder you can use a razor knife and CAREFULLY cut the negative terminal just below the battery then bend back and forth the pos until they break loose.

Buzz I have had 2 - 502 boards in past years that would give a reel tilt error. Reel would spin until I turned the reset key, then would play 1 or 2 times and it would replete the error. At the time I didn't have a green replacement battery so I soldered a jumper between the 2 pos terminals and the machine played fine. Only 2 boards that has ever happened on.

[Buzz]

I also had a few boards that did the same thing. I shit canned those SG000155 and installed SG000363. I will agree the jumper would be cheaper, notice I didn't say better because I like the 363s