Game King LCD Monitor Not Working..

[Amechanic]

My Game King has a 19” Kortek LCD monitor. The other day I turned it on, and the Monitor failed to power on. The game did boot up to play, as my bill acceptor cycled and my deck buttons lite up. You can hear it play when you push the max bet button. Any thing I should look for? I’m assuming it’s the PS board for the monitor?? Is there a place to buy one?

[RB]

I have one with the same issue. Haven't figured it out yet. Bought a new inverter hoping to resurrect it but no luck. I see no obvious problems with the PS but I'm kinda leaning that way. I have found them online at sites like Patriot, Suzo Happ. With my lack of knowledge throwing parts at it will just cost more & still may not fix it.

[Amechanic]

I have one with the same issue. Haven't figured it out yet. Bought a new inverter hoping to resurrect it but no luck. I see no obvious problems with the PS but I'm kinda leaning that way. I have found them online at sites like Patriot, Suzo Happ. With my lack of knowledge throwing parts at it will just cost more & still may not fix it.

Well that’s not good news...   Turned it off a while back, and when friends came over I thought it would be fun to let them play it. That’s when I found this problem.

[buzzarama]

That is a big issue on those older Kortek 19's. Once you power it off and the power supply caps drain and you apply power.... el'done. They are typically pretty easy to fix. The power supply is the easiest to desolder caps on that I have messed with and that's probably 500+.
There are 7 caps that I always replaced and while I was in there I replaced the 2 on the inverter to prevent near future issues.  Good new is, recapping power supply and inverter usually does the trick. Sometimes you have to move the jumper on the AD board after capping but not sure why, no one could ever explain it to me and I'm not smart enough to figure that out.


Being older, every once in a while I would have backlight ccfl's blow and i would replace them with LEDs but it was quite time consuming. A few bad AD boards here and there but 9 out of 10 was power supply/inverter cap issue.


If the green light is fast flashing it's a tell tale sign of power supply.


I did replace a few of the original PS's with a brick style but had to do some soldering there too.


I think I have a few power supplies, inverters and AD boards left. I will check this weekend.

[Amechanic]

Thank.. That I can do, caps are easy. When you refer to the green led flashing, is that the one on the front adjusting board? If yes then mine is not flashing, it’s alway on steady.

[buzzarama]

Can you pull the back off of it and take pictures of the AD, Power Supply and inverter?

[Amechanic]

Can you pull the back off of it and take pictures of the AD, Power Supply and inverter?

Can do.. This was on my Sunday list of things to do..

[Amechanic]

Here are those pics you requested.

[buzzarama]

Looks like it's a KT-PS60PFR power supply and I would venture to say it's your problem. It appears it has been reworked before. The caps at C835 and C837 are not the normal Sam Young caps that were used.
I would replace the following and see what happens.
C825- 50v/1uf
C826- 50V/47uf
C828- 50v/47uf
C834- 16v/470uf
C835- 25v/1000uf
C836- 50v/1uf
C837- 25v/1000uf


The inverter is a GH059A, I would check those caps and change them for longer life (2- 25v/220uf)  I have new ones pretty cheap


If 1 of the 2 ccfl's is bad it won't start the good one so you could also unplug CN4 and CN5 on the inverter and try it. If nothing plug those back in and unplug CN2 and CN3 and try again.


I had a ccfl from a wms topper that I would use to test the inverter with, it didn't matter where I plugged it in on the inverter, if the inverter was good it would light the ccfl.


I don't suspect the panel to have just flaked from being powered down. I checked and I don't have any ADB's for that. All I have are for Samsung panels.


I hope this helps, like I said before, you could try the brick option too. I have used AD-4512L and LSE0107A1240/PA-104-0 power bricks and cut the banana plug off and soldered on the 4 pin that comes from W802 and goes to the AD board.

[buzzarama]

I guess it is worth noting that all 7 of those caps are not likely to be bad. I replaced them in case the values shifted but for home use it is a little easier to get in there and replace if needed. The typical caps that cause the issues are the 25v/1000uf ones. Wouldn't hurt to just do those and then test your power output.
There is a zener diode that causes issues some times to, I believe it is ZD802 on the bottom but if it got that far I put it it box for future repair


I thought I remembered seeing a complete write up on these monitors on the old site but I can't seem to find it.

[Amechanic]

I did notice that 6 of the caps had been replaced before when I went to test the caps with my ESR Meter. They all check good. Two of the small ones on the side were in the mid range. This is where I wish I had a set of extention cables for the 19 and 25 pins monitors. With my game being a slant top, it’s impossible to plug in and check voltages.

[buzzarama]

I took one and cut the 2 wires going in to the power supply and took a 2 prong power cable from something and hooked them up that way.


I used Male terminals on the short harness and female on my power cable and then put female on the part I cut so I could reconnect the original harness.
I had a 50' VGA from a sign install and routed it from my machine to my bench where the monitor was. Didn't work for testing touchscreens but I had my primary tester for AD boards, PSU's and Inverters.

[Amechanic]

I took the PS back off and checked that zener diode and it check ok.. So I’m not sure where to turn next? I could pull the board and ship them off to you to check.