« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2010, 11:15:20 AM » |
What's the approximate cost on 3902 shelves?
I like the EEPROM idea.
« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2010, 12:41:02 PM » |
Thats a good idea, what EEPROM goes in that socket?
Kirk
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2010, 01:05:56 PM » |
The EEPROM is a 24C16 and costs about 50 cents each from mouser electronics. Make sure you pay attention to the chip orientation (pin 1) when you change it.
3902 board prices vary some. I think most of mine were in the $175-$200 range with the MMLII sound card included.
Tilt
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2010, 01:54:58 PM » |
Know anyone who sells 3902 shelves with MMLII cards?
robertywinter
« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2010, 03:46:40 PM » |
Check with Jim at Blueridge slots. His link is at the top of the page.
Rob
« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2010, 07:14:21 PM » |
Thanks! I will order a stick of them
K+ for the info
KIrk
« Reply #11 on: February 05, 2010, 03:22:00 PM » |
I noticed Mouser sells a few variations in DIP packaging for different voltages. Do you remember which voltage you purchased or should I just use the 1.8-5.5v ON Semiconductor chip?
robertwinter
« Reply #12 on: February 16, 2010, 02:26:23 PM » |
I bought some ON Semiconductor 24C16 EEPROM chips from Mouser.
Did my first swap with a spare 3902 tray and a previously configured EEPROM. Definitely makes swapping a WHOLE lot easier. Even without using a spare tray, the swapping of the EEPROM (once configured for a game) with SIMMs makes for a MUCH quicker game change!
K+ to Tilt for the tip.
robertwinter
« Reply #13 on: February 16, 2010, 04:34:06 PM » |
Robert- Which voltage chips did you wind up buying? I want to do this with my Game King so I can swap game sets without losing all my game setups, progressive settings, etc. Thanks in advance.
knagl
« Reply #14 on: February 16, 2010, 04:51:28 PM » |
I used ON Semiconductor, which is 1.8-5.5v.
robertwinter
« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2010, 05:45:06 PM » |
Hi Robert,
I'm sorry, I didn't see your post looking for the supply voltage of the EEPROM IC. I'm glad you were able to figure it out. The one I used is Mouser P/N 511-M24C16-WBN6P which will operate from 2.5 - 5.5V, but any 5V 24C16 should work fine.
Tilt
« Reply #17 on: March 20, 2010, 03:42:56 AM » |
Tilt, (Or anyone else who has done this!)
I was thinking of doing this to make game changes simple. I was wondering if you had the part number of the socket that you used handy???
Also I was going to get this part as that seems to be what they have in stock, can someone confirm that this will work? Also I am going to use it on the newer style IGAMES, but will it also work on the older style GameKings that had the huge IO card under the monitor and above the 3802 MPU board???
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=N3rdCCFdQRc%252bsq9Y%252b5p86Q%3D%3DThanks in advance!!!
CaptainHappy
« Reply #18 on: March 20, 2010, 07:52:21 AM » |
That's the same ones I've ordered, so yes they work. The part number for the socket I used is 571-1-390261-2. I don't have an older Game King like that, but if it has the same EEPROM on the backplane it should work with it too.
Tilt
« Reply #19 on: March 20, 2010, 08:20:09 PM » |
Tilt,
Thanks for the information! K+
CH
« Reply #20 on: March 25, 2010, 06:53:41 PM » |
I just tried the EEPROM that Tilt said to use from Mouser,works great!!Alot easier changing games now.Thanks for the great tip.
« Reply #21 on: March 25, 2010, 07:16:41 PM » |
Hi Laneman. Glad its worked out well for you. It does make game swaps go much easier, and I like being able to keep the credits/statistics intact too. Just make sure when you swap out the EEPROM that you pay attention to where pin 1 goes, and don't bend any pins. 17" GK/I-game cabinets have a service lamp in them behind the bill validator. It will light up with the power switch off and the door open making it easier to see the socket on the backplane. Have fun!
Tilt
« Reply #22 on: March 25, 2010, 07:53:40 PM » |
Actually the EEPROM isnt too hard to change at all.I'd rather change that little chip than have to re do the game setup each time like I was doing.
I was able to make tiny labels for each one with my label maker.
« Reply #23 on: March 25, 2010, 08:12:10 PM » |
Tilt 19" has the same light.
Buzz
« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2010, 04:07:15 AM » |
QHas anyone used those chips on one of the 19" or 17" Game Kings that are the earlier models with the huge I/O board above the MPU board??? The reason why I ask is that the eeprom in mine is a 24LC16B/P, which I assume is compatible??? My I-Game uses the one that everyone has been discussing. Just need to figure out if I need to buy both???
CaptainHappy
« Reply #28 on: March 26, 2010, 05:46:39 PM » |
CH
You would be safe using either one,
The only difference I could spot is one can go down to a lower voltage of 1.7
I do not think IGT drops it that low anyways.
« Reply #30 on: March 26, 2010, 08:44:08 PM » |
Captain,
It'll work then. Just watch the chip orientation. On newer machines pin one is on the upper right (looking straight at it), on older ones it's on the lower left. Just make sure you install the notch on the chip to match the notch on the backplane socket and you'll be good to go, and be aware there are differences.
Tilt
« Reply #31 on: March 26, 2010, 10:42:59 PM » |
Thank guys for confirming exactly what I thought!
I have wanted to do this for some time now, just never got around to it!
I am not going to bother doing it on the S2000's like others have mentioned it would be a pain to get to! It is not that big of a deal for the game change on them, but on the GAMEKINGS and IGAMES it takes much longer, especially on the multi hand multi game multidenom pokers.
K+ all around!
CaptainHappy