Author Topic: S2000 mint "Wild Thing" first slot purchased. New to slots, need help! (Read 17097 times)

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #20 on:** November 28, 2014, 11:07:13 AM »

I purchased it privately from a top class gentleman i n TX. He used to be in the business. Sells alot on fleabay. This slot was from his personal collection. My opinion is that this all happened during transportation (minus the fan of coarse).

Ken · « **Reply #21 on:** November 28, 2014, 12:31:21 PM »

Quote from: CossackWarrior on November 27, 2014, 10:57:26 PM

Ok, so went through the whole slot tonight. Solved one of the major mysteries, the burning plastic smell......It was the FAN at the top that was defective. Super hot and stank. Have to find a proper replacement fan now, any suggestions on where to get one?

Also, found out I have a WBA-12-SS bill acceptor and validator. I would like to upgrade to the JCM WBA-23 (as rickhunter stated) already with the programmed chip for Canadian dollars, and correct parts to fit the larger bills. Can anyone point me to a person or site that has exactly what I need?

Speakers still have that constant static. Dont know what to do there.

I have attached pictures of the sub-woofer and the molex connector. Where can I get the harness for it, and where in the slot does the other side connect. I attached pictures of the rest of the inside of the slot as well.

There is now a new error message. "Bill Validator Comm Error" I plugged it all back in the same way. Hmmm

I have a WBA 23 IDO 24 (eprom labeled CAN V3.04-34) for an IGT available.

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #22 on:** November 28, 2014, 12:43:05 PM »

PM/Email sent on the unit. Thank you Ken.

buybestslots · « **Reply #23 on:** November 28, 2014, 06:01:45 PM »

funny the ebay pro would leave the green battery on game board

RB · « **Reply #24 on:** November 28, 2014, 08:46:21 PM »

I agree. I'm probably pickier than most but I see many things I would change. First, CV slots shows to have the bass speaker harness & bracket in stock. I plugs in at the top left rear of the main cabinet. The wire connector is visble in your pic that I am re-posting.
http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/bottom-bass-speaker-bracket-and-harness.html
The drop chute is missing from the base plate & from the floor of the machine. Not a big deal if it is coinless. Other thing I would change is the mono sound harness in the top box (second pic). Stereo harness is much more desireable with a SIMM installed. That might account for some of you speaker buzz. You have the more desireable 504B MPU. Static shouldn't be a problem. The multimedia settings are configurable as mono or stereo in the menu 3.2.6.1. I would consider changing the Version chip to a VS011GX1 & even those SG chips to SG000363s. 362s are ok but if you ever clear your machine & set it up again you will be prompted to choose WAMM or IPC. If you use a KEY00031 as the PSR suggests, it will leave you stuck at that point. You will need a KEY00017 or 45 (recommended). 363s are set to WAMM by default. The GX1 version chip will change your display to show the $ amount & allow you to setup multiple denominations if so desired. I hope I am not confusing you. These are just things I notice. Obviously the Texas gentleman isn't as picky about his personal collection as most of us.

buybestslots · « **Reply #25 on:** November 29, 2014, 07:01:18 AM »

bet the shipping was alot

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #26 on:** November 29, 2014, 01:43:59 PM »

Quote from: RB on November 28, 2014, 08:46:21 PM

I agree. I'm probably pickier than most but I see many things I would change. First, CV slots shows to have the bass speaker harness & bracket in stock. I plugs in at the top left rear of the main cabinet. The wire connector is visble in your pic that I am re-posting.
http://www.centralvalleyslots.com/bottom-bass-speaker-bracket-and-harness.html
The drop chute is missing from the base plate & from the floor of the machine. Not a big deal if it is coinless. Other thing I would change is the mono sound harness in the top box (second pic). Stereo harness is much more desireable with a SIMM installed. That might account for some of you speaker buzz. You have the more desireable 504B MPU. Static shouldn't be a problem. The multimedia settings are configurable as mono or stereo in the menu 3.2.6.1. I would consider changing the Version chip to a VS011GX1 & even those SG chips to SG000363s. 362s are ok but if you ever clear your machine & set it up again you will be prompted to choose WAMM or IPC. If you use a KEY00031 as the PSR suggests, it will leave you stuck at that point. You will need a KEY00017 or 45 (recommended). 363s are set to WAMM by default. The GX1 version chip will change your display to show the $ amount & allow you to setup multiple denominations if so desired. I hope I am not confusing you. These are just things I notice. Obviously the Texas gentleman isn't as picky about his personal collection as most of us.

Ok, everything you described above I want......lol This will be my one and only slot, so I want it to be packed with all the goodies. Yes, most of what you described above totally flew over my head. Nevertheless, I will need to understand all you described above and would like to source everything you described above as well.

PM sent.

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #27 on:** November 29, 2014, 01:59:09 PM »

Quote from: buybestslots on November 29, 2014, 07:01:18 AM

bet the shipping was alot

Believe it or not, I paid $300 US for the shipping to my door. That is an awesome price for shipping. My secret for getting low rates on shipping is uship.com Works almost everytime to get very great rates.

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #28 on:** November 29, 2014, 02:37:58 PM »

I also just realized by looking at my machine and pics, that there are a number of connectors not connected. What are they all for? Please refer to my previous pics.

Also, there is nothing connected to my i/o board. The connector and harness are just hanging in the back. Any reason for that?

Would it also be suggested to upgrade from my current i/o board? Pics attached.

RB · « **Reply #29 on:** November 29, 2014, 02:42:34 PM »

You have the correct I/O. The harness from the backlight reel controller plugs into it. I saw it hanging in your cabinet. Does your machine have backlit reels? Got your PM. Will email you shortly..........RB

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #30 on:** November 29, 2014, 03:05:04 PM »

Ok, great its the correct I/O. Wonder why the previous owner had it unhooked though? What exactly does the I/O do? I can only assume he had it unplugged cause it was defective or something. Hmmm

Yes, this cab has the backlit reels (meaning the lights are inside the reels, correct?)

Thanks for helping me out RB. Looking forward to your PM.

RB · « **Reply #31 on:** November 29, 2014, 03:20:53 PM »

The I/O (input/output) card/board must be plugged in for the machine to work period. It has many functions. The harness from the backlight controller to the I/O is optional. Is your backlight controller present? See pic. Yes your reels are backlit but that dosent mean all the parts are there.

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #32 on:** November 29, 2014, 04:03:06 PM »

Geez, looking at your pic, I am also missing the whole metal housing for the backlight controller as you can see from the attached pics. I also noticed the top right plug is being used on my controller and not in your pic

??

Do you also have a source for the metal housing for the backlight controller?

It seems that that the harness from the I/O controller to the backlight panel was not plugged in at the I/O controller. Hmmm

lool, the more I look, the more is missing. The previous owner had the backlight panel attached with velcro. Arghhhhh.

Pics of my reels are attached as well.

RB, can you look over the other pics I posted to double check to see if there is anything else I may be missing?

I noticed in the upper compartment two connectors not being used, and two brackets on either end. What where they used for?

RB · « **Reply #33 on:** November 29, 2014, 04:15:04 PM »

It appears that your printer harness is plugged into the upper right. It shoud NOT be. That machine needs to spend a few days with me. I hate when things are half-ass done. I have plenty of mounting plates for the controller but no extra covers, Please unplug that printer harness. Do your backlights even work?

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #34 on:** November 29, 2014, 05:23:29 PM »

Quote from: RB on November 29, 2014, 04:15:04 PM

It appears that your printer harness is plugged into the upper right. It shoud NOT be. That machine needs to spend a few days with me. I hate when things are half-ass done. I have plenty of mounting plates for the controller but no extra covers, Please unplug that printer harness. Do your backlights even work?

Ok, unplugged the printer harness. I would love if a knowledgeable person in slots could come over and take care of all this, but then I would lose out on all the fun stuff

I think I am the same, when I see arcades half ass restored, it freakin kills me.

Good to hear you have the mounting plate, the cover is just another item to add to the list to source, lol.

I checked the reels, and the backlights do work.

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #35 on:** December 05, 2014, 08:24:35 PM »

And the saga continues................

Tonight while playing the slot, I decided to play by pulling the handle, and after the few times, it goes into "General Reel Spin" "DOOR CLOSURE M". Truly frustrating.

I can press MAX BET button a zillion times, and that never happens. Only when the pull down the handle. What could it be?

Loose connection somewhere, bad pcb?

?

I did notice that if I pull the handle slower and more gently than a normal pull down it happens waaaaaaay less. But if you pull it down in normally, it goes into General Reel Spin.

Also,

I cant stop the bottom light in the candle from flashing fast. Is there a procedure to temporarily stop it, and why is it happening anyways?

LOL, I have so much to learn about slots.

RB · « **Reply #36 on:** December 05, 2014, 08:56:09 PM »

I think you mean "General Reel Tilt". Open the door, turn the jackpot key 1 time & release it. Reels should stop & return to normal after door is closed. Anytime there is an error the candle will flash. Is it flashing at all times or only when there is a problem? Check to be sure your reels are properly seated & there are no obstructions such as loose display, reel glass fluorescent light or even wires that might be rubbing on the reels. Pulling the handle merely trips a micro switch in the mechanism that functions just like pressing the spin reels button. The look & feel of the pull handle is merely nostalgic. If there is a slight obstruction to one or more of the reels, pulling the handle just might create enough vibration to make a difference. You should see telltale signs on the reel strips or basket edges if there is some rubbing. Could also be a door optic problem. Not properly aligned or possibly bad but doubtful. Does your MPU still have the green battery? It should be removed from 502, 504 boards. It is not required for home use. A faulty battery can leak acid onto the board traces & usually leads to door open issues which will cause a reel tilt.

CVslots · « **Reply #37 on:** December 05, 2014, 09:14:00 PM »

I concur that the pulling of the handle may be causi g too much of a vibration/wiggle. What is this machine sitting on? If not sufficiently solid and level, this could be the cause of the Reel Tilt.

CossackWarrior · « **Reply #38 on:** December 05, 2014, 10:53:24 PM »

Quote from: RB on December 05, 2014, 08:56:09 PM

I think you mean "General Reel Tilt". Open the door, turn the jackpot key 1 time & release it. Reels should stop & return to normal after door is closed. Anytime there is an error the candle will flash. Is it flashing at all times or only when there is a problem? Check to be sure your reels are properly seated & there are no obstructions such as loose display, reel glass fluorescent light or even wires that might be rubbing on the reels. Pulling the handle merely trips a micro switch in the mechanism that functions just like pressing the spin reels button. The look & feel of the pull handle is merely nostalgic. If there is a slight obstruction to one or more of the reels, pulling the handle just might create enough vibration to make a difference. You should see telltale signs on the reel strips or basket edges if there is some rubbing. Could also be a door optic problem. Not properly aligned or possibly bad but doubtful. Does your MPU still have the green battery? It should be removed from 502, 504 boards. It is not required for home use. A faulty battery can leak acid onto the board traces & usually leads to door open issues which will cause a reel tilt.

Yes sorry, General Reel Tilt. Stopped it with the turn of the jackpot key, and door closure. Thank you.

The lower light in the candle is flashing all the time, even when operating properly. The reels are in nice and tight, with no obstructions (although on one, the double sided tape is kinda loose.)

The MPU does have the green battery, and I do suspect it needs to be removed as I think it has leaked slightly. I will remove it tomorrow. Is there anything in the settings I have to change after removing the battery?

I will also have to double check if the door optics are aligned. How do you check that?

Also right now (temporarily until I find a nice stand) the slot is sitting firmly on the floor.

rickhunter · « **Reply #39 on:** December 05, 2014, 11:53:32 PM »

Did you ever check to see if the dropdoor switch is not jumped together for the blinking light?
The green battery does not backup the settings, just remove it and put board back.
If the door optics are not aligned, then the machine does not play at all.

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Author Topic: S2000 mint "Wild Thing" first slot purchased. New to slots, need help! (Read 17097 times)