Bally 1090? (New to me)

[AlaskaJohn]

Day 2 of my first slot machine.  I think it is a 1090 EM. Still trying to confirm and locate the correct manual.  (No ID plate.)

Drilled the lock and discovered disconnected wires and previous work. 

Current issues:
No payout on anything and mechanic win meter does not read anything. There was a disconnected wire that I reconnected but no change. This is the biggest issue currently.

No coin tray. I am hoping this is an easy replacement to find.

No top lights working. It  looks like a previous owner has rewired the fuses as one is completely disconnected.  I checked the other three and they do not look blown.

The center wheel sometimes only spins slowly. (About 5% of the time). Also, the left and center graphic strips seem to have been dented, slightly ripped, and then repaired.


The bell has been completely disconnected. (  I don't care about this. )




I guess 1st order of business is to confirm model number, get a wiring diagram, and see how much "previous repairs" I need to fix.

 I am new to all of this, so all advice is appreciated.  Thanks!
 

[AlaskaJohn]

A few more photos of areas of surprise.. (missing fuse and dangling wire)

[AlaskaJohn]

Here is the wire to the win meter that was disconnected when I opened it. I hoped the solve to "no payouts" was going to be as simply reconnecting,  but no luck.

[wolftalk]

1090 looks right, and if it left the factory as a generic bally 25c game then it'd be a 1090-1.

see if 684-320 is stamped into the slotted metal index disc on reel 1.  It could also be a code like Q-3CM-1

paperwork for the game is in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/1090-1/ ... the schem is the w-1046-xxx file. 

manuals and other stuff poke around in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/

the bally 5000 is the most relevant manual, then the 2400 and 2600.  The manuals are mostly exploded parts diagrams tho.

the connection of the power cord to the machine and the use of the fuses is confusing, ambiguous, or just wrong on the schematics.  In general, games for the USA or other 120V locations didn't use all 4 fuse holders.

if any lights work, the 6V fuse is ok.  The schematic will show ya the details for the top compartment lighting.  Some of the top lighting is always on, some is controlled by the coin unit disc.  If none works, you'll want to check the blue wire 20 and yellow wire 30 connections.  Wire id -> color chart is on the schematic.  20 = solid blue, 30 = solid yellow.

the yellow wire with the crimped on connector ya'd want to see where the other end goes.  If it's just the power cord ground, then it's usually attached to the metal plating lining the cabinet under a transformer or socket bracket screw head.

the win meter just displays the number of coins dumped out on a win.  It resets on the next handle pull.  Ya gotta get the game paying coins first.

the game has a hopper cutoff relay, and that needs to be powered for payouts to happen.  The relay socket is on your hopper, but no relay is in it.  You can cheat and bypass it ... it's not important for home use as it's job is to detect if the payout counter is not stepping up, which would result in dumping the hopper contents out for on any win.   The bypass you care about is connecting wires 12 (red/blue stripe) and 70 (orange) together. 

david walz has recently sourced the relay, and other folks hopefully can suggest where to find your missing parts.

if you want to email highest possible resolution pictures of the game to slotpics@cdyn.com, I'll add them to the above site.   See the 1088/pics and 1114/pics for an idea of pics that are nice to have (and the 1088 has a pic of a hopper cutoff relay).  Generally the entire sides of the units are best as pics can be zoomed in on to see details.  Close-up shots are useful, but don't help in identifying where in the game a component is.

[AlaskaJohn]

Thank you. I was looking at the 5000 manual wondering if it was correct.  Thanks for the confirmation... I will print that out.

The slotted disk on reel 1 is stamped withs "1090" .. which appears to confirm the model number despite the expectation it might say "684-320" or other [shrug].

Here is a photo of the other end of the yellow wire.

Also another mysterious dead end wire and some electrical taped mystery.

[AlaskaJohn]

I will follow up with high resolution photos as you suggest later this evening after I get my 4yo to bed.

Thanks for all the other info as well.. I will reply when/if I get lights and/payouts working based on your guidance.

[wolftalk]

just says 1090 huh ... well, that's ambiguous.  The first twenty 1090 models I have info on, and they commonly used a couple different discs depending on whether it was $1 or 25c.

if ya need more specific info on what to look for, let us know.  I'm a voltmeter/schematic/jumper wire guy, while other folks have more pragmatic debug approaches based on experience with a lot of games.

tmi
----

if ya look in the 1090/ stuff, $1 games used p-684-305 on reel 1 and 25c games used p-684-320

the difference is the depth of the slot at position 7. 

the dollar slot at position 7 is a bar, while position 7 on a 25c machine is a plum.  Changes the game payback percentage.

'course, your game isn't necessarily a 1090-1.  If ya take a video of the reels spinning it can be slowed down and the order of the symbols checked.  That's a little easier than uncrimping the reel tin at the top of the tape strip and lifting it out so you can see the tape part number on the end of the tape underneath. 

a 1090-1 uses tapes m-231-[28, 29, 30] for the three reels, so you can just compare the docs to your tapes.

[AlaskaJohn]

How do you remove the hopper? It appear like it should slide out but does not come out when I pull.

It appears that mine is missing some screws but I don't see a release or why it won't slide out.

There is a spring loaded piece of metal at the bottom (see arrow in photo), but pushing it back (or pulling it) doesn't seem to release anything. 🤔

[63mini]

AlaskaJohn,

 The hopper should just slide outward.  It may be a bit corroded in.  There should be a handle on the front of the hopper that is missing.  Speaking of missing.  It appears that your hopper is missing a relay where the empty socket is located and I can see there is no knife and guide plate in the hopper.

 The metal spring loaded bar below the hopper is to reset the safety timer when the hopper runs out of coins.

[AlaskaJohn]

Okay. Thanks. I will give some more tugs.  I just did not want to break anything.

Yeah, Wolftalk called out the missing relay above and mentioned it is possible to bypass (which is why I want to slide it out and take look).

I am not sure what a "missinf knife" is.. but I guess I will find out as soon as I do a side by side comparison with other photos.

I am not sure what a

[AlaskaJohn]

Okay.. a good fearless yank was what it took.

[63mini]

 This may help identify some missing parts.

[DavidLee]

Photo of encapsulated relay. Not to hard to find.

[DavidLee]

1088-1090

Hopefully AI will not rotate this photo.

[AlaskaJohn]

Per wolftalk, I attempted to bypass the hopper relay as follows:

"The bypass you care about is connecting wires 12 (red/blue stripe) and 70 (orange) together. "

That is, I checked their pin locations and added a jumper, but no luck. Cherry on 1st reel resulted in nothing.

I guess at this point I need to pull out my voltmeter. Ugh. Never has been one of my strengths.

[AlaskaJohn]

DavidLee,

When you say the relay is not too hard to find, where should I look? Ebay?

[DavidLee]

Probably just google it for starters.
Ebay most likely, but costly.

Possibly someone on this site has a one they can send you.

Also there are slot machine part suppliers across the US.

[63mini]

Probably just google it for starters.
Ebay most likely, but costly.

Possibly someone on this site has a one they can send you.

Also there are slot machine part suppliers across the US.

 And a lot of the slot parts cross over to the Pinball folks.

[DavidLee]

Yes, pinball machines more so than slot machines.

Just beware of the voltage requirements.

[wolftalk]

more specifically on the relay, you want a 50VAC (or 48VAC) standard ice-cube relay with 4 SPDT switches with contacts rated for 5A@120V

typical relay bally used was guardian electric 1310 series - A410-362625-14 iir

I'll assume you were kidding about using the voltmeter since everyone loves using them :-)

your jumper wire position in the relay socket looks reasonable, so we'll assume you've connected wire 70 to 12 correctly.

if you want to sanity check, got a couple jumper wires with alligator clips?  If yes:

1] connect a jumper end to the grey/yellow wire on the payout relay coil.  The payout relay is the top one on the hopper with the two stacks of switches.

2] shove the hopper back in the game with the jumper hanging out

3] turn on the machine and touch the other end of the jumper to the yellow wire on the coin switch on the door.

does the hopper motor turn on and coins start spitting out while the jumper is connected?  If yes, your relay socket jumper is good and you now have to debug a problem in the payout circuits.

if you don't have jumper wires, life is harder 'cause even with a meter, you often want to probe places you can't reach with the mechanisms in the cabinet unless you have meter leads with clips on them.