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« Last post by David Walz on May 17, 2024, 03:23:23 PM »
The schematic, what is the issue with that? Remember your BV worked till you received a different MPU? Maybe the dipswitch settings are not set properly to enable the BV.
Well, I don't know anything about the dip switches, I thought Alan would have set it up before I received it. The wiring was screwed up, it was cut and spliced before I acquired it, I have been trying to straighten it out, lengthen the wires, by using the same color wires.
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« Last post by Tilt on May 17, 2024, 02:57:47 PM »
The options verification message is normal after the machine has gone through a RAM error reset process. It's letting you know to check all the machine settings to make sure they are correct before putting it back in service.
I don't know your level of experience working on electronics. If you can read schematics and have the right equipment to solder/desolder surface mount components then you may be able to fix it yourself. If not, I recommend sending it off to Lookes or someone who does to have it repaired.
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« Last post by leocat168 on May 17, 2024, 02:48:01 PM »
Hi all Had a tiki torch that a friend on here was helping me do a clear and set because the bill validation was not working We did the clear and set .. but upon loading one of the times, the game came up but the reels were blank.. we never got to finish the set up.. I'm not sure if the problemnis from the clear/set, or unrelated.. any ideas? Thanks Al
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« Last post by mboessen on May 17, 2024, 02:32:20 PM »
Hi, All:
New member, possibly won't be here long, depending what folks here tell me.
I'm a 71 year old retired electronics technician, having spent my last 27 years at a local hospital taking care of medical imaging machines. (Xray, CT, MRI etc.) Before that I was an FCC licensed 2-way radio technician for Motorola. My main hobby is restoring antique tube type radios. I also play Dobro (poorly) in a Bluegrass band, golf (also poorly) a couple times a week, make my own real Brandy, do amateur astronomy, and take care of 10 acres in central Missouri. I will attempt to repair almost anything. I have done several jukeboxes, pinball machines, arcade games, vintage small appliances and, again, almost anything, the older the better. Enough with the introductions. Now to the business at hand. I hope I selected the correct forum for the following:
Wednesday My cousin brought me a late 70s "cocktail" version Space Invaders game and a Bally mechanical slot machine from Arizona in the hopes I could repair them. I have the Space Invaders game working and turned to the slot machine. This is my first slot machine. I can't find any model or serial number information on it. I haven't looked at the underside, though. Once I got the lock freed up I opened it up and got some pretty bad news. There is obviously a large sub chassis missing. I know nothing about slot machines, but would guess it is a power supply and some sort of elaborate coin handling mechanism. I'm also guessing that this is likely to be very difficult to obtain.
So, a few questions:
1: Can anyone ID this machine? 2: Is there any chance I can obtain the missing chassis, and how much would it likely cost? 3: Looks to me like it might need a specifically designed lower half that it would rest on, also missing. Is this something I could build (I'm a pretty good woodworker and metal worker) or would I also need to find that? If so, some idea of it's cost. 4: I'm a pretty darn good fixer, but this does look a bit intimidating. Is it likely that there is too much specific technical education required for even a very experienced repair guy like me to overcome in a reasonable amount of time?
Thanks!!
Mike
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« Last post by Ocitown on May 17, 2024, 02:21:54 PM »
Again the ‘ verify all options before putting machine in play’ appears with a box with OK, after selecting OK the machine and game opens up and allows me to play it until I open the door to pull the bill out of the bill holder and now again call attendant main battery low message appears with no options to clear it.
I’m hoping some of this information might be helpful.
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« Last post by DoubleZero on May 17, 2024, 02:13:51 PM »
Looking to buy a mostly-gutted upright S2000 cabinet with a 16" top. I plan to build it out to my own specs, so I'm not interested in the game kit, board, BV, hopper, etc. However, I do want a three-reel shelf and preferably a 5-button deck. Cabinet color doesn't matter, but must be chrome front (not gold). If possible, I would prefer to pick-up in the Dayton/Cincinnati/Columbus, Ohio region but could travel further for the right deal.
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« Last post by Ocitown on May 17, 2024, 01:58:21 PM »
Is there anything I can do to re-solder the battery holder or any other component that might be related to this issue before I send the board out?
Just trying whatever I can before I mail out the tray with circuit boards.
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The schematic, what is the issue with that? Remember your BV worked till you received a different MPU? Maybe the dipswitch settings are not set properly to enable the BV.
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« Last post by stlscott on May 17, 2024, 01:30:21 PM »
The little board where the input plugs for the monitor is the A/D board. Basically it converts the VGA signal (which is analog) to a digital signal so it can be displayed on the digital screen (which is essentially any lcd/oled panel). The fact that as it warms up, the signal becomes steady usually points to bad caps.
Hi Rick, thank you for the information, that was exactly what I was looking for! Once I get this MPU issue resolved (see my other post), I will disassemble it and replace the caps. It's always the caps, is't it??? LOL
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« Last post by David Walz on May 17, 2024, 01:24:11 PM »
I have a issue.... My J16 plug is 18 Yours is 24. The J2 is spot on. This is becoming a nightmare. for helping me with the wiring.
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