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« Last post by David Walz on May 14, 2024, 02:47:23 PM »
Getting the lower cabinet attached to the IGT. Using carriage bolts to secure both the slot machine and the cabinet. Every day something gets done.
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« Last post by David Walz on May 14, 2024, 02:20:21 PM »
There is a variety of Set chips. If you grab the PSR for your game chip. It will tell you which set chip is appropriate. It also documents all of the various options for changing credit limits, hopper limit, reel sounds, etc
As a contributing member you have access to the download section which has all the PSR’s
We also have the PAR sheets for your reel chip. This documents the reel strip numbers, payback percentages, payout variability etc.
Ricks FAQs (main page) mid bottom - right has instructions on how to use a set chip. Do a game change (ie handle the 61 error) and other interesting stuff.
Apologies, I am not a computer person, what is PSR?
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« Last post by Todbedy on May 14, 2024, 02:08:29 PM »
I can't remember, did you say you checked continuity on the RGB wires from connector at the monitor to the board? Color issues are common on those game boards but if Alan serviced it he likely replaced the 3 color pots with resistors. You might want to check around the board in the upper section to the side of the big transformer (middle top of board). It's possible there is a solder gap or broken trace. That transformer is heavy and sometimes the boards or traces break in shipping.
Chris
I did check the continuity from the monitor down to where the cable plugs in to the board under the logic board. Continuity was good between those points. Ill check between that plug and where the board drops in later. I'll go through the board closely and see if i see anything. It's pretty clean for the most part besides some brown residue above the transformer. I slightly lifted each removable chip and pressed them down thinking one of the pins was corroded but no change It's puzzling but then again...i do enjoy a good puzzle!
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« Last post by hotlsot on May 14, 2024, 02:07:16 PM »
I'm looking for a set of reel strips for a 3X4X5X Double Diamond. 3 reel 3 credit one line. Base # sb100783. Anybody have a set for sale?
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« Last post by Tilt on May 14, 2024, 01:19:48 PM »
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« Last post by scottf11961 on May 14, 2024, 01:14:54 PM »
So the chip I have is a set chip? Then whats the smaller microchip?
Basically, what I'm being told here is that my mpu is bad, and even if I put a new mpu in, I still don't have a game. Is that correct?
Thanks in advance!!
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« Last post by Chris-socal on May 14, 2024, 01:12:06 PM »
I can't remember, did you say you checked continuity on the RGB wires from connector at the monitor to the board? Color issues are common on those game boards but if Alan serviced it he likely replaced the 3 color pots with resistors. You might want to check around the board in the upper section to the side of the big transformer (middle top of board). It's possible there is a solder gap or broken trace. That transformer is heavy and sometimes the boards or traces break in shipping.
Chris
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« Last post by Todbedy on May 14, 2024, 12:53:21 PM »
Not likely. I don't think you would have any image if C5346 was out. Cross your fingers it isn't that, those are as rare as a flyback. Look closely on the solder side of the board in the color section. That area is notorious for pads lifting off or cracking. Even if the transistors check good it's possible a pad or two is broken, you will need a magnifier to see the level of detail I'm talking about or use the continuity checker on your meter to verify every trace has continuity. Check all the pads on the PRA boards too, yes, there are 18 pads on each PRA. Check continuity from point A to point B on every one of the pads on the PRA boards and all the transistors. Also check the solder connections where the video comes in (R,G,B,G, HS, VS) and the neck connector.
This is when it would be helpful to have an extra board to drop in and verify it's the board and not the game. You will have to keep poking around that board. I'm pretty sure you don't have an IC problem, it's likely the PRA boards, transistor or bad solder connection.
There are 3 diodes on the neck board, check those, they rarely fail but you never know. Also check the solder joints on the neck connector. The Color Pins should be marked Red, Green, Blue, on occasion those solder joints crack.
Chris
Another update: I got the LCD monitor in today and the same blue and white screen appears. This is good news as far as the old monitor. The main board must have an issue that I’ll have to look into. Making progress though! Chris
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« Last post by lvdesertrat on May 14, 2024, 12:52:58 PM »
The chip (CF card) you have looks like a setchip, but an old one. The setchip should say something like: LinuxOs x.63.3 Setchip 7.0.65.02 While the game chip should say something like: Buffalo Legends 1.01-62412 Linux x.59.0 World Base 5.18.0-1.00.6
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« Last post by stlscott on May 14, 2024, 12:26:20 PM »
I have a Bally Alpha 9000 Quick Hits. I've tried different cables, plugged and unplugged all cables at the MPU and the monitor, pulled out the MPU and pushed it in securely - seems tight (all while powered off of course), and still get the occasional flicker.... seems to happen early in the process, meaning in the first 10-20min the machine is on.. then it seems to go away... almost like a cold solder or something...
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