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« Last post by kmarrocco on May 03, 2024, 04:41:34 AM »
Hey there, I have a 3902 Game King with a 17" monitor / 25 pin connector. It has a Tovis LTG-1750UR LCD touch screen. When I power it, the LED on the top board of the LCD turns green, but the screen stays black. I posted in the Game King forum and it was recommended that I try a new inverter board first as it could be that and they often fail. I hooked up the new inverter board and the display worked long enough to clear the machine and set it up. Then the screen went dark again. Now it is being recommended I should look for a new panel or whole assembly since the CCFL's seem to be bad/going bad. Can anyone recommend a good economical replacement or other ideas to repair the current one? The only option I have found so far is from Ceronix and is over $600 plus shipping.
Thank you for your support.
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Check with Jim MidWest Slots here on NLG . He may have a replacement head.
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The sound chip, I don't know if there is a list for those sound chips, and to find a board with the chip will be difficult most likely. Not sure if there is files for those sound chips? I've never seen your title before. As far as SMI chips , maybe someone will chime in.
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These UGA are used in our casino for the inlay of the player card, the whole thing is combined with a converter board so that payouts on playing cards are possible. The UGA, so to speak, creates a display in the display so that the code can be entered there!!
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« Last post by mike161g on May 02, 2024, 11:15:48 PM »
i have a 1090 that has been converted to a 1090-37...lots of cut wires etc.... i say this because someone wrote 1090-37 on the wiper boards.....been through machine ..seems like everything is working insert coin.... coin accepted.. zero switch good .but will only pay on the 777 win...on 1 2 and3 coins and is accurate..none of the other combinations of bars etc will make it pay.....everything seems to be in order other than modification of the wiring harness....maybe its been modified to only pay 777...this is my 5th electromechanical ive been through and its beating me lol...dollar machine if it matters thanks
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« Last post by Bruce G on May 02, 2024, 09:58:12 PM »
Yes, the reel tube is shorter. Thanks for your note.
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« Last post by knagl on May 02, 2024, 09:51:54 PM »
It's looking really nice. You truly are bringing new life to an old game.
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« Last post by knagl on May 02, 2024, 09:48:57 PM »
Now I am in search of both a motherboard and MPU that can run Triple Diamond Deluxe with HOPEFULLY the correct nudge. If you haven't done so already, I would suggest posting a WTB (Want To Buy) in the classifieds section with what you're looking for. Also, coincidentally, someone did post in the NLG Facebook group within the past day or so that he has S+ MPU and motherboards for sale. This is not a personal endorsement of him, just information for you that might be useful: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Newlifegames/posts/7354534287928857/
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« Last post by filounet on May 02, 2024, 09:39:51 PM »
Hi, I meant it works then it doesn't work anymore then it works again, in short it's random and there doesn't seem to be any logic. So when Therockinelvis wrote that he had experienced a strange breakdown in the past, I was wondering if the 3V battery is sufficient and if we shouldn't solder a 3.6V battery because the battery may not do well contact?
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« Last post by wolftalk on May 02, 2024, 09:31:10 PM »
the 400 parts manual says the reel tube and the belly tubes are different.
the 2200 manual also agrees ... the reel tube would be an F6TS/CW or F6TX/CW. I dunno if both those are the same as F6T5/CW, which is the common one available these days.
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