Bally 1114 full restoration

[David Walz]

ya cut a hole in the cabinet top for the diverted coins to drop into the cabinet ... nice!   

haven't seen that very often.

All 4 of my Bally slot machines drop from the top into the coin box below. That's how I reuse the coins.
I also have the cord hole in the lower cabinet, this looks professional having the cord tucked away. 

[David Walz]

 
I am working on the out meter that is not working. I have checked out the: meter, it's fine now I need to go and follow the wiring.

Just moving along.....

[David Walz]

What an ordeal I have been going through.......
Searching for the meter out issue I must have screwed up big time. 
First I pinched a wire, after I fixed that mess, and now the hopper keeps running with a win. 

Now for a break and then back to the chain gang.

Just a distraction, my garage heater went "POOF" last week, after tearing down the heater I finally succeeded at removing the pilot and ordered another one, it came in yesterday and I was so enthralled with the slot machine problem that I totally forgot about the heater. I was not freezing my chestnuts off however it was rather nipplie.

I guess tomorrow I will be back on the 1114 machine looking  the issue of the hopper running after payout. 

[David Walz]

  Good news, everything is working excellent again, except for the reel IN meter. That was a headache to straighten out my mistake. 

I still need to overcome the IN reel meter on the reels. 

[David Walz]

Really awesome news, I found the hopper cover!!!!!
Thanks to: MONTI'S SLOT SHOP
 

[David Walz]

Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.

This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊

[David Walz]

Well, hopefully this is the problem with the out meter I will find out tomorrow. If it doesn't I will order a new plug.

[David Walz]

I have received the Bally cover plate in the mail today.  It looks great on the cabinet. 

[David Walz]

Monti is sending me the last two pieces that I need. 

[wolftalk]

Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.

This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊

wire 74-1 broken off would make the "total in" meter not work, and 74-1 should be on pin 15 ... your white arrow is actually pointing to pin 6, so I guess you are just pointing at the whole socket.

if you have a bad pin in a socket, it's fair game to move the wire on both the plug and socket to an unused pin position.  No need to replace a beau plug for one damaged pin.  Ideally add a tag so the next guy knows what you did.

if the problem is a bad pin vs a damaged connector shell, I usually move a good unused pin into the correct location or swipe a good pin from a junk beau plug and keep the wire in it's correct location to match the schematic.   

 tmi
----

it's almost always the case that the wiring on the plugs goes in wire id code numerical order from pin 1 up.  However, design changes or variations in later versions of a model have out-of-sequence wires used - most commonly on unused pins on the base model.

for example, the larger 24 pin reel mech plug on a 1114 doesn't use pins 20-24. 

on the 1114-6 pins 1-19 are identical to the 1114 and pins 20-24 have wires 62-6, 54, 75-7, 94 and 84 on them in that mixed-up order.

the idea was to reuse wiring harness as much as possible (specifically, the nail boards used to make the harnesses) and add wires when needed.

rarely they would leave out wires that weren't needed so there would be unused pins surrounded by used ones.   That usually happened when a machine new model was nearly the same as an existing model (e.g. a 1090 vs a 1091), but the new model would never need the wire in any possible variation (fruit, triple bar, lightning, etc.) or if the new model was a limited pay machine for a specific market.   

[David Walz]

Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.

This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊

wire 74-1 broken off would make the "total in" meter not work, and 74-1 should be on pin 15 ... your white arrow is actually pointing to pin 6, so I guess you are just pointing at the whole socket.

if you have a bad pin in a socket, it's fair game to move the wire on both the plug and socket to an unused pin position.  No need to replace a beau plug for one damaged pin.  Ideally add a tag so the next guy knows what you did.

if the problem is a bad pin vs a damaged connector shell, I usually move a good unused pin into the correct location or swipe a good pin from a junk beau plug and keep the wire in it's correct location to match the schematic.   

 tmi
----

it's almost always the case that the wiring on the plugs goes in wire id code numerical order from pin 1 up.  However, design changes or variations in later versions of a model have out-of-sequence wires used - most commonly on unused pins on the base model.

for example, the larger 24 pin reel mech plug on a 1114 doesn't use pins 20-24. 

on the 1114-6 pins 1-19 are identical to the 1114 and pins 20-24 have wires 62-6, 54, 75-7, 94 and 84 on them in that mixed-up order.

the idea was to reuse wiring harness as much as possible (specifically, the nail boards used to make the harnesses) and add wires when needed.

rarely they would leave out wires that weren't needed so there would be unused pins surrounded by used ones.   That usually happened when a machine new model was nearly the same as an existing model (e.g. a 1090 vs a 1091), but the new model would never need the wire in any possible variation (fruit, triple bar, lightning, etc.) or if the new model was a limited pay machine for a specific market.

The pin is the problem, I can't do anything about the actual socket wires, the wires are used in all of them except for 1 and its missing the part that is soldered.

I may be totally crazy,  my wires #1 left top of the female Beau plug see photo.

[wolftalk]

yup, you're totally crazy :-)

'course, that depends on what you are looking at.  There's numbers molded into the beau plug on the wiring side that are probably covered in flux and crud.

the schematic is drawn looking at the female receptacle which is the same as the male wiring side. 

your drawing is the female wiring side.

to get to the schematic diagram you'd need to rotate 90 degrees clockwise and spin it around the vertical axis.

put another way, in your pic on post 226 pin 1 is the top/right pin and pin 3 is the bottom right pin.

the other plug on the hopper doesn't use pins 20-24, so you either move the 74-1 wires to that plug or steal the needed piece from it to fix pin 15.

iir, you just bend the ears in the corners on the female pin a bit and the pin will slide out the back.  The males are just inserted from the front and the back side is twisted to lock them in place.

[David Walz]

yup, you're totally crazy :-)

'course, that depends on what you are looking at.  There's numbers molded into the beau plug on the wiring side that are probably covered in flux and crud.

the schematic is drawn looking at the female receptacle which is the same as the male wiring side. 

your drawing is the female wiring side.

to get to the schematic diagram you'd need to rotate 90 degrees clockwise and spin it around the vertical axis.

put another way, in your pic on post 226 pin 1 is the top/right pin and pin 3 is the bottom right pin.

the other plug on the hopper doesn't use pins 20-24, so you either move the 74-1 wires to that plug or steal the needed piece from it to fix pin 15.

iir, you just bend the ears in the corners on the female pin a bit and the pin will slide out the back.  The males are just inserted from the front and the back side is twisted to lock them in place.

My female beau plug has to be replaced, it has missing parts, I just don't want to JURY-RIG the beau plug. It's never easy peasy with these beau plugs, and I don't like replacing them. 

[David Walz]

Well, it's in the house! That's a lot of work moving the slot machine inside.    I still have some small thing's that need  work, nothing like the restoration of the machine. The cover on the chair is for Sabrina my fur baby.

[wolftalk]

My female beau plug has to be replaced, it has missing parts, I just don't want to JURY-RIG the beau plug. It's never easy peasy with these beau plugs, and I don't like replacing them. 

if the housing isn't damaged, it's a lot easier to replace a pin than resolder all the wires to a replacement plug.  You don't have any spare beau plugs to steal pieces from?

it does kinda depend on how many double wires you have to deal with.  If a pin just has a single wire and you're decent with a soldering iron, replacing the plug is quick enough moving one wire at a time, especially if you tin all the pins on the new plug.  If you have a lot of double wires that want to separate, that's more tedious.

[David Walz]

My female beau plug has to be replaced, it has missing parts, I just don't want to JURY-RIG the beau plug. It's never easy peasy with these beau plugs, and I don't like replacing them. 

if the housing isn't damaged, it's a lot easier to replace a pin than resolder all the wires to a replacement plug.  You don't have any spare beau plugs to steal pieces from?

it does kinda depend on how many double wires you have to deal with.  If a pin just has a single wire and you're decent with a soldering iron, replacing the plug is quick enough moving one wire at a time, especially if you tin all the pins on the new plug.  If you have a lot of double wires that want to separate, that's more tedious.

 

[David Walz]

 
I received the hopper parts today, however I have a issue. The rear of the bowl is short, obviously I have the wrong end piece. 

[David Walz]

The other hopper cover part came in today.

[wolftalk]

I received the hopper parts today, however I have a issue. The rear of the bowl is short, obviously I have the wrong end piece. 

looks ok.  The mounting holes are in the right place and it looks like the one in the parts manuals. 

what's different is the shape of your scoop extender.

[David Walz]

I received the hopper parts today, however I have a issue. The rear of the bowl is short, obviously I have the wrong end piece. 

looks ok.  The mounting holes are in the right place and it looks like the one in the parts manuals. 

what's different is the shape of your scoop extender.

Photo.

It's nothing really, just another part I need to acquire, I just need to grab a Bally book and find the part so I can order the correct one that's higher.
It's the end cap, that isn't tall enough to be level with the hopper.