Bally 1114 full restoration

[David Walz]

I have to admit resistors and capacitors are not my expertise. But I am trying to figure it out.

[David Walz]

Feature unit glass:

Another tidbit of information. The 1114 original FACTORY $1 coin belly glass is in progression payout amounts $2, $4, $6, etc. See picture

The 25¢ coin belly glass is in progression amounts 2, 4, 6, etc. See picture.

Mine is the $1.00 coin amounts on the belly glass.

[David Walz]

Today was a good day! 

[David Walz]

All of the hard work on the belly assembly finally paid off.   

 

[David Walz]

Finished up on the lower part of the door. Really, it's an awesome slot machine.

 

[David Walz]

The hopper baffle came in today, that was driving me crazy without one. 

[David Walz]

So, I finally plugged it in.
The first coin light doesn't light up, however the second and third one does when manually advancing the cam.
I have one relay clicking on the reels.
I have the tilt light on.
 
So more work investigating the machine.

[David Walz]

  Wolftalk is helping me out with the slot machine function coin in and the cycling of the machine, I am checking out the the contacts, wiring.

[wolftalk]

the 1st coin lights are wire 95-4 from the coin unit disc.  Reset the coin unit, and the 1st coin lights should turn on.  If not, check the wiper/rivet connection, wiring and make sure the coin unit reset all the way.

the tilt light turns on when the hopper cut-off relay is unpowered.  When the game is first turned on, the HCR is unpowered until the handle release relay trips or you push a reset button inside the door.  Once the HCL powers, it should stay powered forever unless there's an issue with the payout counter stepping or the hopper runs out of coins.

next step is to see if the HCR is powering but failing to stay powered after the spin or not powering at all.

[David Walz]

the 1st coin lights are wire 95-4 from the coin unit disc.  Reset the coin unit, and the 1st coin lights should turn on.  If not, check the wiper/rivet connection, wiring and make sure the coin unit reset all the way.

the tilt light turns on when the hopper cut-off relay is unpowered.  When the game is first turned on, the HCR is unpowered until the handle release relay trips or you push a reset button inside the door.  Once the HCL powers, it should stay powered forever unless there's an issue with the payout counter stepping or the hopper runs out of coins.

next step is to see if the HCR is powering but failing to stay powered after the spin or not powering at all.

Thanks, will get started.

And, I sent you a email.

[David Walz]

Found a burnt switch, a short, checked out the coils.

[David Walz]

Solved several issues today, the short, lighting, coin progression, overall it is coming along.

Working on the 97 at the reset button, some issues have surfaced.

[David Walz]

I really need to know what relay goes into the 1114 hopper, maybe that's my issue, anyone have a $1.00 1114?

[David Walz]

Here is the fist light. That hasn't happened for probably several decades. 

[wolftalk]

you posted a pic with 3 different 48VDC "ice cube" relays.

I dunno what the difference is between a 1310 series and a 1315.  You can measure the coil resistance to see, and verify the pinouts are the same.

[David Walz]

you posted a pic with 3 different 48VDC "ice cube" relays.

I dunno what the difference is between a 1310 series and a 1315.  You can measure the coil resistance to see, and verify the pinouts are the same.

If I knew what relay is used, I would order one, then I'd know that I got it correct.

Sent you an email.

[wolftalk]

the relays are pretty generic.  If you get the coil voltage correct and the contacts can handle the amperage, a bunch of different ones will work if they plug in correctly and have the same pinouts.

small differences in the coil resistance won't matter.  If you go too high a resistance, the relay may not work.  Way too low and coil may burn out.

I dunno what the exact problem is you're having now.

[David Walz]

the relays are pretty generic.  If you get the coil voltage correct and the contacts can handle the amperage, a bunch of different ones will work if they plug in correctly and have the same pinouts.

small differences in the coil resistance won't matter.  If you go too high a resistance, the relay may not work.  Way too low and coil may burn out.

I dunno what the exact problem is you're having now.

I checked out the coil and it works fine.
The 97 wire is my issue. I have a 30 wire going to the 97 wire on the reset switch. When I apply power to the 97 wire the relay resistor, and the diode  get cooked.

[wolftalk]

did you disconnect the capacitor and see what happens?

it's one of:

1] the capacitor is shorted
2] you have a wiring problem
3] the relay coil is shorted or way too low a resistance, so too much current is heating up the resistor
4] the 47ohm resistor is wrong

it's most likely a shorted cap or relay coil if the diode is failing.

[David Walz]

did you disconnect the capacitor and see what happens?

it's one of:

1] the capacitor is shorted
2] you have a wiring problem
3] the relay coil is shorted or way too low a resistance, so too much current is heating up the resistor
4] the 47ohm resistor is wrong

it's most likely a shorted cap or relay coil if the diode is failing.

Sounds like a to do shopping list, will get right on it.

I believe that I figured out the problem.