The options verification message is normal after the machine has gone through a RAM error reset process.  It's letting you know to check all the machine settings to make sure they are correct before putting it back in service. 

I don't know your level of experience working on electronics.  If you can read schematics and have the right equipment to solder/desolder surface mount components then you may be able to fix it yourself.  If not, I recommend sending it off to Lookes or someone who does to have it repaired. 

Hi, All:

New member, possibly won't be here long, depending what folks here tell me. 

I'm a 71 year old retired electronics technician, having spent my last 27 years at a local hospital taking care of medical imaging machines.  (Xray, CT, MRI etc.)  Before that I was an FCC licensed 2-way radio technician for Motorola.  My main hobby is restoring antique tube type radios.  I also play Dobro (poorly) in a Bluegrass band, golf (also poorly) a couple times a week, make my own real Brandy, do amateur astronomy, and take care of 10 acres in central Missouri.  I will attempt to repair almost anything.  I have done several jukeboxes, pinball machines, arcade games, vintage small appliances and, again, almost anything, the older the better.  Enough with the introductions.  Now to the business at hand.  I hope I selected the correct forum for the following:

 Wednesday My cousin brought me a late 70s "cocktail" version Space Invaders game and a Bally mechanical slot machine from Arizona in the hopes I could repair them.  I have the Space Invaders game working and turned to the slot machine.  This is my first slot machine.  I can't find any model or serial number information on it.  I haven't looked at the underside, though.  Once I got the lock freed up I opened it up and got some pretty bad news.  There is obviously a large sub chassis missing.  I know nothing about slot machines, but would guess it is a power supply and some sort of elaborate coin handling mechanism.  I'm also guessing that this is likely to be very difficult to obtain. 

So, a few questions:

1:  Can anyone ID this machine?
2:  Is there any chance I can obtain the missing chassis, and how much would it likely cost?
3:  Looks to me like it might need a specifically designed lower half that it would rest on, also missing.  Is this something I could build (I'm a pretty good woodworker and metal worker)  or would I also need to find that?  If so, some idea of it's cost.
4:  I'm a pretty darn good fixer, but this does look a bit intimidating.  Is it likely that there is too much specific technical education required for even a very experienced repair guy like me to overcome in a reasonable amount of time?

Thanks!!

Mike

Looking to buy a mostly-gutted upright S2000 cabinet with a 16" top. I plan to build it out to my own specs, so I'm not interested in the game kit, board, BV, hopper, etc. However, I do want a three-reel shelf and preferably a 5-button deck. Cabinet color doesn't matter, but must be chrome front (not gold). If possible, I would prefer to pick-up in the Dayton/Cincinnati/Columbus, Ohio region but could travel further for the right deal.

The schematic,  what is the issue with that? Remember your BV worked till you received a different MPU? Maybe the dipswitch settings are not set properly to enable the BV.

I have a issue.... My J16 plug is 18  Yours is 24.

The J2 is spot on. 

This is becoming a nightmare. 

  for helping me with the wiring.