Or the spin reels button. Do you have spin repeat enabled?

Swap the bulbs from the good deck into the problem deck.
Probably all burned out.

Indeed.  Presuming the first step of the journey, IE obtaining the missing chassis, is successful, the second step is I will order a book.  Hopefully I can find an original or very good copy.  Then comes the part I dread, IE learning the vernacular, and memorizing the correct names of a thousand parts so you guys can actually help me, and then memorizing the sequence of operation.  Boy am I dreading all of that.  Probably Tuesday before I am back on here.

I wouldn't worry on the vernacular, names, sequences, etc. It's all a logical sequence you can actual think out in your head. Many of the "fixes" on these are compartmental. You're just fixing ONE of the sequential steps that has failed. And a LOT are just a contact out of alignment, or a dirty contact. EM machines have self cleaning contacts provided you keep playing them time to time. With your experience, I think this won't be as hard as you think. 

can you email highest possible resolution pics to slotpics@cdyn.com?

the entire game front with door closed and the entire area at the bottom where the hopper goes with good lighting.  Want to see the hopper socket, other stuff that is around it, and if the rails for holding the hopper are there.

to help verify the game id, see what is behind the top glass.  Your glass came from a 1072 ... just need to confirm what's inside.  If you have hat symbols on the reels, then the reels are almost certainly 1072 also.

without a schematic, it will take a bit more work to figure out what should be on the hopper and how to wire it.  You'd really want to unscrew the hopper socket and flip it down/around as best as possible and try and identify all the wire colors. 

Bally was pretty consistent on the wires - using the same colors for the same functions on most of the machines, so you have a decent chance that picking a similar type of game will let you use a different schematic to at least give big hints as to where the wires go.

it'd be a bit time consuming, but it's not impossible to figure things out.  Games with a 24 pin hopper plug/socket are a bit simpler as that usually means all the parts on the hopper are the common stuff like payout relay, payout counter and delay relay.

the 1072 looks like a remake of the 815 "liberty bell special" in a bigger cabinet.  Those two models use the same reel tapes, reel wiper wiring and slotted reel index discs.  The payout counters are different and I don't have the paperwork for either, but that's not a problem as any payout counter disc that supports the pays on the glass will work,

the wiring would likely be pretty similar to the 815-1, which you can find on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ - tho you'd probably have some extra stuff that is common to later model machines.

btw, what you are missing looks like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/315378139065 ... however, at his asking price you can usually buy whole machines on the west coast.
 

Quote from: stlscott on May 18, 2024, 06:09:33 PM

Quote from: rickhunter on May 17, 2024, 04:09:13 PM

Remove the 2. batteries and try a clear without the batteries to see if the error goes away.  If it does, after the clear put the batteries back and do the clear again before you try to boot with os and game.

Unfortunately, running the clear on the MPU with both batteries removed gave me the same results.  I'm assuming when you said both batteries you meant both on the MPU.

sounds like a bad clear cf card or wrong one. I had this happen before with wrong clear cf card. Double check you have the correct #clear card

Hey Rick, thanks for the reply!
Got the clear from RB who has confirmed, it's the right version for the BIOS chip I have and the OS version I have.