Sound toggle switch?

[mvco]

Wow, this is interesting.  Everything has been replaced.  As for the dip switches, the board with the higher numbered SP chip would ignore the dip switches.  Only the older SP chips used the dip switches.

[rokgpsman]

Actually, with SP1137 the dipswitch is active and it controls several things. Dipswitch position #3 sets reel sounds on or off.

[rokgpsman]

SP1137 has a sound test, it is selected when you have pressed the white TEST button and stepped to the output tests and have the number "50" displayed in the Winner Paid digital display. If you can get sound by doing the diagnostic sound test then that could indicate your hardware is ok (or mostly ok), just something goofy with the software settings maybe.

When the instructions say to press the self test button it is referring to the white TEST button. I'm not fluent enough in S+ to tell you how to do the sound tests but the instructions are in the image below. Maybe someone here can help with that if you need it. I think you just press the white TEST button (aka self test button) until the number "50" is shown in the Winner Paid display. Then turn the jackpot reset key to select a sound, and press the Spin button to hear the sound.

[rokgpsman]

...Update on the sound issue:
 
Basically still no sound. I have bought a new chassis which included a new MPU and motherboard, power and complete wiring harnesses.  There is no sound in either old boards or new boards combination. I have used contact cleaner on the volume pots on both MPU boards....

.....I also have a new wire harness for the door. I’m thinking of running this to rule out the possibility of faulty wires.....

When you say you have replaced all the wiring does this include the wires from the speaker to the motherboard, or at least made sure the speaker harness connector is making contact with the audio connector on the motherboard? I agree, run the new door wiring harness, especially if it contains the speaker wires.

Also, on both mpu boards have you tried flipping dipswitch #3 on and off a few times to ensure it is working, then setting it ON to enable reel sounds? (probably not the problem but I'm running out of ideas)

[Talarspeed]

...Update on the sound issue:
 
Basically still no sound. I have bought a new chassis which included a new MPU and motherboard, power and complete wiring harnesses.  There is no sound in either old boards or new boards combination. I have used contact cleaner on the volume pots on both MPU boards....

.....I also have a new wire harness for the door. I’m thinking of running this to rule out the possibility of faulty wires.....

When you say you have replaced all the wiring does this include the wires from the speaker to the motherboard, or at least made sure the speaker harness connector is making contact with the audio connector on the motherboard? I agree, run the new door wiring harness, especially if it contains the speaker wires.

Also, on both mpu boards have you tried flipping dipswitch #3 on and off a few times to ensure it is working, then setting it ON to enable reel sounds? (probably not the problem but I'm running out of ideas)

I have the wiring harness- just haven't run it yet out of laziness. Trying to find a quicker fix than disconnecting everything at the door and then rewiring. I know it won't be difficult, just looking at other obvious quick fixes. (I honestly will end up doing this because someone mentioned that I could limit my 3200 errors by cleaning the coin optics; I will probably combine these tasks.)

But you got me thinking . . .  I'm going to check the wiring (from the speaker) at the molex. Going to check the pins and the plug at the MPU. Gonna check for looseness and clean with contact cleaner. 

I have flipped the dipswitch several times thinking that it might help.

[Talarspeed]

SP1137 has a sound test, it is selected when you have pressed the white TEST button and stepped to the output tests and have the number "50" displayed in the Winner Paid digital display. If you can get sound by doing the diagnostic sound test then that could indicate your hardware is ok (or mostly ok), just something goofy with the software settings maybe.

When the instructions say to press the self test button it is referring to the white TEST button. I'm not fluent enough in S+ to tell you how to do the sound tests but the instructions are in the image below. Maybe someone here can help with that if you need it. I think you just press the white TEST button (aka self test button) until the number "50" is shown in the Winner Paid display. Then turn the jackpot reset key to select a sound, and press the Spin button to hear the sound.

I'm definitely doing something wrong . . .


I have been hitting the white button until I get "2" in the Coins Played.  The Winner Paid starts off with "00".  I keep turning the Jackpot key and cycle through the numbers as shown on the test chart. When I get to "46", I turn the Jackpot key again and the Winner Paid starts over again at "00".  I never see the option with "50".  My intention is to hit "Spin Reels" if I get to 50 to see the options I would have.


What am I doing wrong? If this is confusing I can make a video and post on Youtube.

[sixcardmark]

Press white button 5 times to get to 50 (may be 6x depending on sp)  Spin button makes it ding like hitting the white button on optics board or inserting a coin.

[Talarspeed]

Press white button 5 times to get to 50 (may be 6x depending on sp)  Spin button makes it ding like hitting the white button on optics board or inserting a coin.

Thank you- this got me to the sound test. Hitting the Spin reels- still no sound.

[sixcardmark]

If you hit the white button twice do you get a 2 in WP window and a 1 in credits window?

[rokgpsman]

Thank you- this got me to the sound test. Hitting the Spin reels- still no sound.

I think doing the sound test in the self test menus should always work to make sound, even if the dipswitch had sounds set to off or other software settings (if there are any) had the sound muted. So that makes me think you have a hardware problem that's keeping you from getting sound. Since you've replaced the speaker, the mpu and motherboard then the wiring itself needs to be verified. Unless I've missed something the sound originates in the mpu board, goes into the motherboard where the mpu plugs in, travels over the motherboard traces and then goes from a motherboard connector to the speaker. So I'd check the speaker wiring from the motherboard to the speaker.

....I'm definitely doing something wrong . . .

I have been hitting the white button until I get "2" in the Coins Played.  The Winner Paid starts off with "00".  I keep turning the Jackpot key and cycle through the numbers as shown on the test chart. When I get to "46", I turn the Jackpot key again and the Winner Paid starts over again at "00".  I never see the option with "50".  My intention is to hit "Spin Reels" if I get to 50 to see the options I would have.

What am I doing wrong?

You're learning new stuff, and it has some frustrations, hang in there!   

The IGT SP documents can be confusing, they don't always contain every instructional step you need. I think the output test step#2 is a group of tests numbered up to 46. The sound test is a separate test not part of that group, so you have to step past step#2 and then get to the sound test which is 50. I see that Mark got you going on this, he is very familiar with the S+.

[Talarspeed]

If you hit the white button twice do you get a 2 in WP window and a 1 in credits window?

Hitting the white button twice from normal game play (after opening the door) gives "5_ _1" in Winner Paid and "0" in Credits.

[sixcardmark]

Ok no sound options in software then.

[rokgpsman]

A couple of drawings showing the wiring harness connector locations, thought they might be handy. Over the years IGT changed some of the S+ design, like moving the power switch to different locations and where the mpu & motherboards were located. This is the cabinet connector drawings for S+ with the mpu on the leftside wall in bottom of machine. In the drawings the "J/P XXX" terminology is IGT's way of naming both connectors in each connector junction - i.e, J/P 207 = connector jack 207 mates with connector plug 207.