Bally 1090 Award glass issue

[Phan000]

Here is a photo of the switch.


I’ll adjust the black spring to your instructions.  Thanks!

[wolftalk]

hate to complain, but that pic is in too close :-)


need to see the switch stack too.  David's pic is ideal ... or even further away as long as the switches are centered in the pic and not at an angle.


something is still wrong.  The bracket B should be touching the stop plate C in the above pic and the switches closed like in david's pic, not curved way past normal like they are now.


in your pic, if B moves further toward the front, the long blade with the nylon lifter attached looks like it will touch the fat metal bar.  That would be bad.


there should be a brown nylon/plastic roller on the peg under your electrical tape.  If it's there, the tape isn't necessary.  Where you would need tape is on the fat metal bar to stop the switch blade from touching it (or bend the fat bar further away), but ideally figure out why the switches are not aligned correctly.

[DavidLee]

There’s a possibility that the switch mounting bracket is from another machine.
Or it has been bent to a position other than 90°.
Refer to attached photo compared to the arrangement on your machine.


This bracket could be adjusted back with a little force or possibly move the stack to the other side.
Close examination of the situation may result in a simple solution.

[Phan000]

This machine continues to give me a headache.


I tried to adjust the spring and nuts to the specs on the instructions.


Several times, it would play 60 spins, then handle would get stuck at the bottom.






As of now, it is getting stuck every time.  I tried putting the cogs back to where they started, but made it worse.

[DavidLee]

The stop lever trip bracket is part of what causes the reels to spin.
When out of adjustment the handle will travel to far and jam.

In most cases the bracket is flush to the back of the case.
A simple test would be to place a small washer on the bracket
causing the trip lever to activate sooner.
Using tape or magnetize the metal washer.

Adjust accordingly.

[wolftalk]

below images are the side view of what david said.

if the handle bottoms out before the pawl (O in manual diagram) slides off trip lever (N), you're wedged.   Moving the stop bracket per david's instructions makes the pawl slide off sooner and kick off the spin before the handle hits the bottom of it's travel.


if you want to see the video the pics came from: http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v ... however, the handle isn't being used so if the stop bracket was too far left it would still kick when doing like in the video, but the handle would bottom out before the kick when in the cabinet.

[wolftalk]

btw, there's still something wrong with your dashpot switches.  Below is another pic from someone's machine.  His game has a single switch, but notice you the blades are more-or-less vertical like in david's pic and you can see were there's room for the second set of blades.


your switch stack is too far to the right for some reason.  Is there another set of holes to mount the bracket to the reel mech frame or do you have extra spacers on the stack?

[Phan000]

Thanks for the detailed posts.  I made some
Small adjustments to the stop bracket.  It took a few tiny adjustments-  too far back and the reset did not kick in.


I’ve played like 100$ and made my kid play for an hour.  Seems good now.


That switch bracket did not have other mounting holes or a spacer.


I think the lower spring pulls too hard causing the dashpot to get too close to the switches.  I tried a spring from another machine.


As of now I bent the switch slightly and it helped with the short.


Thanks again for all the help!

[DavidLee]

I noticed another issue that might help with the dash pot switch.


The rubber bumper or the lack of is causing the assembly to travel to far.

[wolftalk]

but the link (B) is not even touching the stop plate (C).  If that was positioned like the manual says, the dashpot switch would be a little bit worse than it is now.


it looks like his stop plate is cocked a little, but even if straighten to reduce/remove the gap (red circle), the dashpot switches are still bending way too far. 


something is wrong ... it may just be the bracket the dashpot switch is mounted to is bent/twisted and bending it vertical with an adjustable wrench will fix it.  Can't tell without a picture from further back and more perpendicular to the side of the reel unit.

[DavidLee]

A couple of things that can be done about the dash pot switch bracket.


1. Make a small 1/4 inch spacer 1/4 and tape it over the rubber bumper to see if it makes a difference.


2. Using an adjustable wrench, place it over the dash pot switch bracket at the end near the switch.
   
    Tighten up the wrench and apply pressure in a direction to realign the switch.

[wolftalk]

1. Make a small 1/4 inch spacer 1/4 and tape it over the rubber bumper to see if it makes a difference.

I don't think this would help.  The U-link, arm and latch pawl at the bottom rotate independently of the black trip lever.  When you pull the handle, you push the U-link back and eventually the latch pawl hits the trip lever and starts rotating it clockwise off the rubber pad.


the last pic in post 16 shows a reasonable gap between the trip lever and the latch pawl.  If the rubber pad was missing, the trip lever would rotate further counter-clockwise and make the gap smaller.  If it made the gap disappear, that would be a sorta problem, but the U-link would hit the stop bracket and stop the trip lever counter-clockwise rotation anyway .  It would wear the stop bracket, link or pivot points eventually, so they put in the piece with the rubber pad to hold against the high spring force.


assuming all the correct parts are on the game, your [2] solution seems to be the only one that makes the U-link touch the stop bracket and the dashpot switches be aligned correctly to the U-link pin so there's no chance they can short or be over-bent.