overpay problem

[rjpohl]

Pays out 1 extra coin on almost all payouts.  I noticed that there is usually a coin the is under the coin out switch after most all payouts.  See picture, pretty sure it shouldn't be there.  any suggestions appreciated, got guy coming to pick up in the morning.
thanks
Bob

[Amechanic]

I know that usually when you have a 1 coin over pay it can be fixed by adjusting the zero stop bumper. But with your coin stopping under the roller I’m not sure that’s your problem. You might want to try sending Davidlee a pm. He’s very knowledgeable with these games.

[DavidLee]

Right Gary, if the payout step up is to far back it may not be running off the contact strip thus paying out one more coin then shutting off.


OR the coin shut needs to be cleaned.

[Amechanic]

I don’t think that style hopper has the brake. That coin under the roller should get kicked back into the hopper bowl. For some reason it’s getting the device that kicks the coins off the coin wheel? I thought I read some where that a set of contacts are opening a little late or too slow, allowing the coin to stop under the roller.

[DavidLee]

Good observation,


Can’t remember right off hand if contacts control the solenoid that operates the coin kicker. Or it’s wired directly to the hopper motor which is started by the payout relay. Good to use extra caution when working and or testing this particular solenoid. As it operates on 120 v ac.
Will refresh my memory on this machine when I get to the shop.
Nice machine, got one that is a progressive type. Doesn’t payout very good with the 5 or 6 lemons on reel 3.
I’m been thinking re-wiring the 3rd reel and adding some more fruit.

[Nurbo]

Hello,

I think that your tokens are too small to be properly ejected by the overide coil at the end of the payment.

I have the same problem on a 742 Tic Tac Toe.

[rjpohl]

I'm using quarters, not tokens.  The quarter that is hung under the coin out arm/roller is also keeping the ejection arm from springing open.  added a couple more pics

[rjpohl]

Trying to understand the payout wipers.
Picture Zero-Retracted is the position after a spin with no win. (wiper is making contact with #2)
advanced 2 is picture after manually advancing 2 times
advanced 3 is picture after manually advancing 3 times (is making contact with #5)
advanced 4 is picture after manually advancing 4 times (is making contact with #5)


let me know if this is right/wrong.


thanks

[DavidLee]

There should be continuity from the contact blades to the metal receiver strips.
When the step up unit is fully retracted back.

Using a test meter or test light, I like the light as its easy to see.
With the spiral cam all the way back check for continuity between the contact blade and the metal receiver strips.
Should be continuity on the strips 2,5,10,14 and so forth.
Now manually step the unit by pushing the linkage connected to the pivot roller down 10 times.
Should still have continuity from the contacts to the 10 pay metal strips. Press the linkage one more time.
This causes the contacts to loose continuity on the 10 payout as they should have road off the metal strips.
The 14 pay will still have continuity and should LOOSE continuity by advancing the step up 4 more times.

For someone doing the for the first time the unit reset coil is located behind the board bottom left.
Just push it in and the cam should return to zero if all things are working properly.
 

[Amechanic]

The number 2 wiper should be off the metal strip after it pays the 2nd coin. Same with a 5 coin pay, the wiper for the 5 strip should be in contact through the 4th coin, but when 5th is paid it should be off the 5th contact strips..

[rjpohl]

with spiral cam retracted there is continuity to all receiver strips.
after 2nd trip of pivot linkage continuity is lost to #2
after 5th trip of pivot linkage continuity is lost to #5
after 10th trip of pivot linkage continuity is lost to #10
after 14th trip of pivot linkage continuity is lost to #14

I believe this is correct???

Questioin:
since hopper motor does not have a break the coin ejector must come in in time, correct?  if it is late wouldn't that allow additional coins?  What contacts release the coil?

thanks
Bob

[Amechanic]

Think of it this way, you should have continuity on a pay strip through I less coin then being paid. A two coin pay will have the connection at one paid but not two. A five coin paid will have a connection with 4 coins but not five. You want your last coin to be paid as the wiper finger comes off the wiper boards connection. This breaks the connection telling the hopper to stop the pay.

[rjpohl]

Gary, then what I reported should be right.
thanks

[Amechanic]

Yes it sounds correct

[rjpohl]

I'm just guessing but it looks to me that the ejector is not kicking in fast enough to eject the unwanted coins.  Was hoping someone could tell me what contacts control the coil to see if I could adjust to pull it in a hair sooner.  again just a guess on my part.

[Amechanic]

No I think your pretty much right on. I have found that those return springs get weak and the roll pins and connecting holes wear out. I have rebuilt a coupe of those in the past. Bought new and next size roll pins and drilled out the worn holes. I would check that springs tension on that return spring first.

[DavidLee]

Photo of the coil Gary mentioned about worn out parts and or weak spring.


The payout relay just left of the of the coil mentioned starts and stops the motor.


The coil is wired in parallel with the motor thus activated and deactivated at the same time.


Inspect the payout relay for free movement of the armature and the spring is still in place.

[Amechanic]

check the 2 items in the yellow circles.. The roll pin and holes wear and the springs become weak..

[rjpohl]

the hole where the roll pin is at is oblong and this is amounting to about an 1/8" movement on the ejector.  I  stretched the spring back to where it connects to the roll pin which increased the strength/tension.  Adjusted the zero switch and now it is paying out correctly.  No more coins stuck under ejector.  I think I will take Gary's advise and remove roll pin, drill out and install slightly larger pin.  Then hopefully I can move tension spring back to it's normal connection.


thanks guys!
Bob

[Amechanic]

What I did was go to my local hardware store and went through the spring drawers till I found springs I could use that were just a little stronger then the original one. I figured it had been in service for year and could have lost some tension. The solenoid has more then enough strength to handle the stronger spring.