Author Topic: My 1st IGT Slot Machine and what I have done so far (Read 8524 times)

Trisail · « **on:** May 30, 2018, 08:39:05 PM »

I bought a used IGT Triple Diamond Deluxe. It looks like it is an S2000. Got it without the keys at first. Was able to open the door and got it up and running. Got the keys a few days later.
1st thing that came up was 'RAM Error', got it reset and got 'NON-RECOVERABLE DATA ERROR'. Ordered the Clear 97 and Key 17, and was able to use them to get the unit running and looked like it worked.
Played it a bit and here's what works so far >
All lights but one candle lamp, all displays work, coin comparator works and it takes 1, 2 or 3 coins, all front panel buttons work, the reels spin correct and the payouts look correct, counters all work and most of what else I can see looks OK.
What's not working that I know of so far >
Hopper appears to not have power, no sound, but the solenoid for the stop works, the bill acceptor appears to not have power.
I was able to do some of the setup and got into the I/O test sections and such. So far no sound, no hopper and no bill acceptor working. One candle lamp is burnt out and I will replace it. I checked the power supply (MCP-8011) and the 13 VDC and the 25 VDC are good and the ripple on both are < 5 mV AC, no bad caps. I am going to check the wiring for the sound, hopper and bill acceptor.
So far what I know about the sound. The speakers do appear to be OK, I get a pop when I power up. No response from sound test, cycles through the sounds but nothing out of the speakers. Not much else on the sound yet.
No hopper noise when turned on or any response from the hopper test. The hopper appears as if it will function, I will check the PCB for obvious problems then need to put it on the bench and get power to it to test it.
The bill acceptor >
No light on the green bezel. No noise when the unit is turned on. The bill door micro switch is not hooked up, the wires appear to be removed, not sure if they were disconnected from the 3 wire connector hanging behind the box. The cashbox switch in the rear is disconnected, don't see the wires there either, looks like there should have been some spade connectors hanging behind it for the switch. I did see a green and a blue wire are shorted and have heat shrink on them in the wire harness leading away from the box.

Here is a picture of the machine. I can post others as needed. Suggestions appreciated.
I am still searching for wiring diagrams and/or schematics for the machine, none found yet. Was hoping to be able to do some NLG File System downloading, but appears I don't have the right access. Looks like I am in the right place for getting help with my new toy.

Thanks in advance.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #1 on:** May 31, 2018, 03:35:06 AM »

Quote from: Trisail on May 30, 2018, 08:39:05 PM

.......Was hoping to be able to do some NLG File System downloading, but appears I don't have the right access. Looks like I am in the right place for getting help with my new toy.
Thanks in advance.

Here is an explanation of the website user levels. When you post a message there will be an graphic or icon to the left of your message, a little below your username, that shows your user level.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=45.msg308#msg308

I think your S2000 machine has a TEST button inside (the S+ does) that will let you get into the built-in testing routines. That will let you test all the inputs and outputs, hopper, lights, etc.

To download files or to post items for sale in the Classifieds area requires a donation to the NLG website. The donation can be anything reasonable, small or large, all are appreciated. On the Home page, left side of the screen is information about doing that. Look for the panel shown below:

Trisail · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2018, 06:58:34 PM »

Thanks for the info rokgpsman.

Power was getting to the hopper in the machine. I was able to bench test the hopper by applying power and simulating the drive signals, safety and brake. Still would not run. Checked the signals and looked like they were good from input to driver, but no run. I shorted power to the driver out B pin and it ran. I blew the driver with some more testing. Ordered a couple of the drivers, they should be in next week. Also will replace U1 (CD4093) just because.

Checked the signals for the sound chip (YM2413), op amps and driver. Did not see any change on any of the pins while I was in the sound test menu. Even though the sounds are quick, I will assume I should see a slight change, nothing on any of them. Ordered a couple of the sound chips and they should be in next week.

Fiddled with the bill accepter but no testing yet. I will probably get to that after the hopper and sound are working.

Found some prints and info online for most of the machine.

Later

ChrisColumbus · « **Reply #3 on:** June 01, 2018, 12:29:28 AM »

What you have is a "Vision Ready" series. It was an early s-2000 that you could put a LCD monitor in and have bonus games. The sound actually did not come from the MPU it came from the LCD monitor which was hooked to the speakers. There was not a inline amp in the Vision Ready Series. If whoever you got this from did use the correct harness and take the LCD Screen out then you could use the inline amp and have sound. Can you post pictures of the top box without the glass and the inside of the machine?

Trisail · « **Reply #4 on:** June 01, 2018, 01:20:05 PM »

Chris, thanks for the info. I hope with the MPU PCB and chips I can get the sound to work. May need an AMP PCB?

Trisail · « **Reply #5 on:** June 01, 2018, 01:24:04 PM »

Trisail · « **Reply #6 on:** June 01, 2018, 01:26:13 PM »

Connectors and Number

Trisail · « **Reply #7 on:** June 01, 2018, 01:27:02 PM »

MPU PCB

Trisail · « **Reply #8 on:** June 01, 2018, 01:27:40 PM »

Chips

ChrisColumbus · « **Reply #9 on:** June 01, 2018, 02:06:44 PM »

ok.. well for sound you will need this. This one has the harnesses with it. It will plug in behind the right speaker in the topbox and then run to the amp and then to the speakers. look behind the Right Speaker if you are looking at the machine and there should be the connectors on the topbox

https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-SOUND-AMP-BOARD-WITH-WIRE-HARNESS/161876999685?hash=item25b09efe05:g:zzMAAOSwlaxWN3Zk:sc:USPSPriorityMailSmallFlatRateBox!31329!US!-1

Trisail · « **Reply #10 on:** June 01, 2018, 02:37:18 PM »

Great thanks Chris. Ordered it and will see how it goes. Looking inside the top from the front it looks like the connectors are behind the Left speaker. Looks like I just need to mount the AMP PCB and plug 3 of the connectors into the connector plate, and the other 2 into the speakers.

Looks like I will have time to work on the Bill accepter while I wait for all the parts for the hopper and sound. I will post some pics of the BV and stuff. You any good at BV's?

ChrisColumbus · « **Reply #11 on:** June 01, 2018, 03:17:25 PM »

No I don't mess with BV a lot. There is a lot of members on here that does though. I would first get your I/O cards situated where you burnt them out. Solve 1 problem at a time.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #12 on:** June 02, 2018, 04:07:46 AM »

This is a very early S2000. Notice the speakers. Not ear's. Cabinet is not made for amp. board to attach, no mounts. Have you gone into your settings for sound? Using a S+ SS chip changes a few things too. S2000 TD Deluxe is SB100215 for 3 coin. Not sure about your reel strips

Trisail · « **Reply #13 on:** June 02, 2018, 09:50:56 AM »

I have done the settings and sound tests, no sound. I have not seen any other sound setting in the menus to enable or disable the sound, just the reel, stop and game sounds. I noticed the mounting holes for the AMP PCB are not there, from other pictures it looks like it should mount behind the right speaker. Not sure what you mean yet by using S SS chip. I'm not sure what the numbers/labels on the Eproms on my MPU PCB represent yet, they appear to be copies. I found a pic online of the S reels and the S reel Eprom is SS6291 mine is SS6292. I can get the numbers off the reels if it is important. They appear to be the correct ones from looking around the web. If the sound AMP and harness look like they will plug in OK I will try that. I'll check the mating connectors and try to trace the wires back to see if I can tell where they are coming from and what they may be for. I am getting the impression this machine may have been pieced together? Thanks again for the information.

ChrisColumbus · « **Reply #14 on:** June 02, 2018, 10:23:10 AM »

The machine at one point probably had a monitor in it for the Vision games. Hence the Vision Ready. The sound and power came out of the LCD monitor to the speakers. Because you do not have a monitor and are using it similar to a s2000 you will have to rewire it like an s2000. The Vision Ready series did not have an amp, but you are not using it like a Vision Ready machine. I noticed they sliced and diced the speaker harness to the topbox. That may be your problem with sound

Trisail · « **Reply #15 on:** June 02, 2018, 01:17:14 PM »

Thanks ChrisColumbus. I am hoping the AMP and harness is what I need to rewire it like an S2000. The splice on the speaker wires was put in to use both speakers from one signal. I assume because the left speaker was all that was supposed to work on the S2000 without stereo. The connector in the back has been modified, the two wires in the plug that are cut go to a connector on the other side that is not hooked up, assuming that they were for the right speaker? The 2 wires that do go to both the speakers are hooked up and go into the wire harness back to the MPU I believe. Haven't ohm'd them out yet to see if they go to the MPU sound output pins, they appear to be the right color for the speaker wires. I'll do all that when the AMP PCB gets here.

ChrisColumbus · « **Reply #16 on:** June 02, 2018, 04:23:23 PM »

You will have to get power to the sound amp board. It's not just going to plug into the topbox anywhere because it was not designed to. I believe you can make a harness and use the 12pin in the top box but I do not have a wiring schematic to confirm. The lcd was actually hooked up to that connector. Someone may be able to tell you the right pins that you can use power from. I know there are schematic diagrams on here somewhere also. You have a huge job ahead of you if you want it to run like an s2000...

Therockinelvis may know what they are connected to right now in the top box. I know the LCD has its own built in amp so the sound would come out of the LCD to the speakers. Im not 100 sure if where they are plugged in right now is enough power if needed. He probably knows.

Trisail · « **Reply #17 on:** June 02, 2018, 06:12:23 PM »

I thought I wanted it to run like an S2000. I figured it would work and play when I got it. It does work like a slot machine should, it takes coins, the buttons work and the reels work and payout correct. Can I assume the BV will work? The hopper should work also I would think. I know I need to replaced the driver IC on the hopper and the other IC, but should it have worked anyway? I would like to get the sound to work, without an LCD. If it would be easier with an LCD I can look into that.

I got it with the idea of modifying it to work and payout anyway I would like. I wanted to get it working correct before I start the modding. It is not imperative to get it fully functional but the reason for that was in case I decided to sell it later it would be worth more working properly with the original IGT components. Which it seems now that would include the LCD and possibly other components. Thanks for all the info, it is greatly appreciated.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #18 on:** June 02, 2018, 08:09:16 PM »

Right now your machine is working like an S+. It is using a generic SB00100 and a S+ SS chip. No big deal, we do that so that the SS will match the reel strips. You will need to get 12vdc to the amp board. Here is a picture of it. The place on the left is where the sound signal will come from to get to the amp. You will not have to worry about a power dist. board. Only need that for topper, top box printer, etc. Red, black/red 12vdc. Orange, orange/black 24vdc

Trisail · « **Reply #19 on:** June 03, 2018, 08:06:12 AM »

Sounds good. Thanks for the pic. I'll let you know how it goes when the parts are in.

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Author Topic: My 1st IGT Slot Machine and what I have done so far (Read 8524 times)