Author Topic: Help on E2212 (Read 2784 times)

rjpohl · « **Reply #20 on:** January 27, 2021, 01:41:07 PM »

Status Update 1/27/21

I replaced the hopper board and that took care of the hopper running continuously. Was able to perform hopper test, 10 coins paid out.

I also by passed the door key switch.

Found out if I disconnect one wire on door switch the light fuse does not blow. Most of the small lights then worked on the door. The wire I disconnected is yellow with blue dashes and was connected to normally closed terminal. I followed the wire back to a plug behind the hopper, where it connects and becomes a pair of solid blue wires. The switch has wires on all 3 terminals.

still doesn't register coins.

thanks for any suggestions.
Bob

where can i get schematic of cabinet to help run the short down?

rjpohl · « **Reply #21 on:** January 27, 2021, 06:46:40 PM »

I hope I haven't wore out my welcome because I really need some help with figuring this "short" out.

The door switch (see picture in previous reply) has a wire on both the NC pole (the yellow/blue wire) and the NO. When this wire is hooked up to blows the "light" circuit fuse. With wire loose the majority of the small lights on door/buttons work. When I connect ohm meter leads to the yellow/blue wire and ground it shows continuity (a short).

If I leave the yellow/blue wire loose from door switch the machine seems ready to play (the coin diverter is engaged) but will not register the coin when coin switch is tripped.

Coin switch shows working under test 3.

Thanks and hope you can help me over this hurdle!
I hope to work on tis again tomorrow.

Badbaud · « **Reply #22 on:** January 27, 2021, 07:19:49 PM »

It's possible that stray mystery wire (leave it off!) that should not be there destroyed the IC input on the I/O board that detects door open/closed.
The game may be never seeing an actual closed door.

rjpohl · « **Reply #23 on:** January 28, 2021, 04:05:27 PM »

What progress I made seems to have disappeared.

Today when I powered slot on everything seemed as it was yesterday. I was going to run test 3 but couldn't get to it. When I press the test switch it only goes to 1. I can't get it to go to test 2. when i press 1 and let up on button the coin diverter drops out and the black buttons under reel 1 and 2 pull in and release, then diverter pulls back in. Display reads 50 0.00 and then 50 0.70 and then back to 50 0.00 and so on. If i press the reset button the last 0 on display becomes a 6 and the relay by hopper plug pluses.

Once when I turned machine on and activated the coin drop switch the relay by hopper plug started shattering until a fuse blew. To get the relay to stop engaging I had to remove a wire from coin drop switch. what is the relay for?

I'm lost and unless one of you guys can get me on track I'll have to give up on this one.

thanks
Bob

GOS · « **Reply #24 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:05:01 PM »

the 6 usually means a power issue - reset the connection to the power supply- check for burn marks on the bottom 2 connectors.

Badbaud · « **Reply #25 on:** January 28, 2021, 08:36:24 PM »

The relay is a "delay relay". It waits for a set time for the 5 Volt DC voltage to settle and power the board chips THEN turns on the 50 VAC voltage to the coils and such in the game.

Not getting past test one usually means the door is closed. The test switch won't work if the game door is closed.

rjpohl · « **Reply #26 on:** January 29, 2021, 05:01:25 AM »

Quote from: Badbaud on January 28, 2021, 08:36:24 PM

The relay is a "delay relay". It waits for a set time for the 5 Volt DC voltage to settle and power the board chips THEN turns on the 50 VAC voltage to the coils and such in the game.

Not getting past test one usually means the door is closed. The test switch won't work if the game door is closed.

Alan, you're probably right and I need to check the door switch circuit. In reply 20 I have a picture of door switch. The wire that is connected is on the NO (would be closed when door closes), I didn't get any voltage reading on it yesterday. Should there be voltage? The wire that's disconnected has 7.98 vac. It's the one that would cause the light circuit fuse to blow when connected to NC contact.
Should I hear or see the contacts close on the delay relay when door circuit is closed. The delay relay was firing when I closed the coin drop switch on the door.
I won't be able to work on this today but hope to over the weekend.
thanks
Bob
thanks

Badbaud · « **Reply #27 on:** January 29, 2021, 05:41:31 AM »

If that one stray door switch wire had AC on it the AC voltage probably damaged the IC on the I/O board, the IC input that is connected to the door switch.
Yes, you should see the delay relay turn on.

rjpohl · « **Reply #28 on:** January 31, 2021, 12:39:18 PM »

Quote from: Badbaud on January 29, 2021, 05:41:31 AM

If that one stray door switch wire had AC on it the AC voltage probably damaged the IC on the I/O board, the IC input that is connected to the door switch.
Yes, you should see the delay relay turn on.

What is a IC? Is that a eprom? How do I check?
thanks
Bob

Badbaud · « **Reply #29 on:** January 31, 2021, 03:15:29 PM »

U17 on the I/O board behind the Reel mech detects the door hinge switch on and off positions.

See attached

rjpohl · « **Reply #30 on:** February 01, 2021, 10:47:40 AM »

I swapped out i/o boards and was able to get back into the test menu. I ran all test #3 except for door hinge switch (instructions said the personality prom must be removed for this test). I tried to run #4 test but I believe the delay relay is bad (see picture).
Bob

Badbaud · « **Reply #31 on:** February 01, 2021, 03:23:19 PM »

The delay relay has nothing to do with the hopper.

rjpohl · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2021, 03:26:18 PM »

Quote from: Badbaud on February 01, 2021, 03:23:19 PM

The delay relay has nothing to do with the hopper.

My bad, I meant test 2.

rjpohl · « **Reply #33 on:** February 02, 2021, 06:02:47 AM »

Is there a way to bench test the relay with ohm meter?

Badbaud · « **Reply #34 on:** February 02, 2021, 06:13:49 AM »

Apply 6VDC to the relay coil. + to the cathode side of the counter EMF diode, - to the anode.
Check contact resistance with an Ohm meter. Contact points, when closed should be below 2 Ohms.
If resistance is higher clean the contacts with a burnishing tool.

rjpohl · « **Reply #35 on:** February 02, 2021, 11:35:04 AM »

Status -

I've got the it to where when powered up the coin diverter and coin reject are engaged and ready to play. With door close the insert coin light is on but coins do not register. I think I'm close, any suggestions on next step?
I performed the Test 2 and everything appeared to work as it should.
thanks
Bob

Paul · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2021, 02:10:24 PM »

Check the coin acceptance switch below the coin validator .
Make sure the coin is registered by the switch.

rjpohl · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2021, 02:12:52 PM »

Coin is registering on coin in switch. Iâ€™ve also operated switch manually with door switch jumped.

Paul · « **Reply #38 on:** February 02, 2021, 02:17:36 PM »

Is the signal getting back to the board?
Could the wire have a break- bad connection at the door hinge?

rjpohl · « **Reply #39 on:** February 02, 2021, 02:24:15 PM »

Door hinge switch appears to be working properly. If I close the insert coin light comes on, when door is open it is off.

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Author Topic: Help on E2212 (Read 2784 times)