First slot purchase - some minor issues

[Tinpanva]

Well, got it home and started playing, so far ‘most’ everything is working fine. I think it’s an S Series, mfg date is 1992, B5033CT. First issue is replacing the Play Max Credits switch, it lights up but nothing happens when pressed, I also put my meter on it and I can’t determine what is common, nc or no on the switch, nothing changes. Need to replace one of the tiny bulbs on the ‘Bet One Credit’ button, anyone know the part no.? Lastly I need to figure out how to access the belly light for replacement. I’m thinking maybe just go ahead and replace all 3 and the starters also. Anyone have any pointers or suggestions please share!

[Pitts256]

S-Slot Buttons

The CHANGE, BET ONE CREDIT, SPIN and MAX BET buttons are wired the same. A normally open micro switch connection, the solid green wire is connected to the common terminal (COM), the yellow wire with the stripe to the center normally open terminal (N.O.).

The CASH OUT button is wired a normally closed micro switch connection, the solid green wire is connected to the common terminal (COM), the yellow wire with the stripe to the normally closed terminal (N.C.).

Check the micro switch to make sure it's properly aligned and seated in the push button. The push button may not be making contact with the micro switch plunger.

The solid blue and blue with a stripe wires go to the mini wedge bulb sockets.
 
The button bulbs are Mini, T1.75 6.3V Wedge #86

[RB]

 

FYI: That is an early S plus (no BV).

[Tinpanva]

S-Slot Buttons

The CHANGE, BET ONE CREDIT, SPIN and MAX BET buttons are wired the same. A normally open micro switch connection, the solid green wire is connected to the common terminal (COM), the yellow wire with the stripe to the center normally open terminal (N.O.).

The CASH OUT button is wired a normally closed micro switch connection, the solid green wire is connected to the common terminal (COM), the yellow wire with the stripe to the normally closed terminal (N.C.).

Check the micro switch to make sure it's properly aligned and seated in the push button. The push button may not be making contact with the micro switch plunger.

The solid blue and blue with a stripe wires go to the mini wedge bulb sockets.
 
The button bulbs are Mini, T1.75 6.3V Wedge #86

Awesome! Any idea for a part number of the switch? None of the white tabs are touching the red plunger which is why I assumed it needed replaced. Would that also explain why I can’t determine N.O. From N. C. ? I went to a local game store that sales and services slots, the switch he sold me is way too big and I don’t want to have to modify the hole size (at least not yet). Dude charged me 25 bucks for a micro switch, robbery lol

[Tinpanva]

FYI: That is an early S plus (no BV).

That’s good to know! I was told since it didn’t have the bill feed, it wasn’t an S+

[Pitts256]

You'll need a "CHERRY DA3" micro switch. Pinball shops or eBay should have them for less than $5. A replacement DA3 may come with a lever, it just pops off. Make sure the Cherry switch plunger is located at the open slot as in the attached picture. Also the DA3 is now obsolete, a DB3 or DB5 is supposed to be a direct replacement.

[knagl]

FYI: That is an early S plus (no BV).

That’s good to know! I was told since it didn’t have the bill feed, it wasn’t an S+

RB is correct. Some folks mistakingly think that the bill validator is what makes it an S+, but it has to do with the board that is used in the machine.

"S" (non-plus) machines did not support bill validators, but the absence of one on an S+ does not immediately make it an S.

To open the belly door, there should be a rough textured knob on the right side of the machine just above the belly door. Support the belly door by holding it so it doesn't fall open rapidly and damage the glass. Pull the knob out from the machine and the door should unlatch. There may be a lock installed, and if there is you'll have to unlock that first.

[Tinpanva]

First off, thanks for all of the help! Knowing what I have makes searching sooo much easier!

After pulling the original switch out completely I was able to see what the problem was. The white part of the button frame had the tab broken off that depressed the micro switch and someone tried to glue it back on, of course it didn’t hold but they got a drop of glue on the switch so it wouldn’t work. The white frame needs replaced and I’ve already ordered the micro switch. No joy on finding a replacement button (yet). I trimmed up the replacement (led) button the game room sold me, it works as it should but I don’t like the look of it. Plus it’s not as bright as the incandescent bulbs. I suppose if I converted the entire thing over to led it would be fine.

I’ve figured out the belly door, got it open and will try finding bulbs and starters this week. I’ll also find the mini bulbs and get those ordered. Productive weekend!

[jay]

Most of the vendors on the home page can send you a button. Best to call, some of these folks web pages are pretty neglected and don't necessarily reflect what they have.
If your ordering something from them - you might want to get a SET and CLEAR chip set while you are at it (assuming you don't already have these).  You might not need it now but they are useful to have on hand.
On our home page the vendors who have banners have been given them by our forum host (Scott, Joey,rip). None of these are paid banners they reflect the good folks that help out NLG members.
Also on the home page you can find RICKS FAQs - near the bottom right. They will explain what a SET and CLEAR chip do, and a link to the S+ game bible which will show you all of the themes your machine can morph into.

Bulbs and starters can be found a home depot or lowes.