IGT S+ Arm Function

[IGTiger]

Hi guys,

My slot arm locks and unlocks as it should, but doesn't trigger a reel spin when it reaches the bottom of the pull.

I imagine there is as switch in there that either has a bad connection or has gone bad itself.

Can anyone point me in the direction of which switch is in there incase I need to replace it?

Thanks so much.

[IGTiger]

Hi everyone..

So I found one of these little switches on the bottom of my machine. 



There are 3 imprinted labels on the 3 prongs titled "C" "NO" and "NC"   The "C" has some black residue on it.  Maybe looks burnt?  I accidently snapped the lever off on it when handling it.

I also found a loose green + black/yellow wire.  Is this for the slot arm?  If so, the previous owner may have disconnected these wires from the switch as I hard time believing they came loose on their own. 

Or is the switch pictures above for the cash box?  I tried connecting the green wire to NO and black/yellow wire to NC, adding a service credit and pressed the button on the switch but nothing happened.. I changed the order of the wires, I Believe trying the "C" this time and as soon as I made contact the wheels spinned and got error 3400.  After that no combination would do anything.  The switch needs replacing, just hoped it would work somewhat with just the button in the mean time to test.

Thanks for any help.  Next step is to take out the BV and cashbox, then control arm assembly to see if this is indeed the arm switch.  Just thought I'd ask before tearing things apart.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Does your cabinet have a bill validator and a cashbox?

[IGTiger]

Thanks for the reply! Yes it does have both a BV and cashbox.

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay...that makes it a bit harder to repair.
The validator and cashbox are fairly large units in the way of the pull handle mech.
Take a camera, look behind the cashbox, and take some photos of the two wires (One is solid green, the other one is yellow with a black stripe) on the switch.
The switch sort of looks like the one you found.
I want to see if it's missing or not and just a switch you found for something else that's not needed.

It's very hard to see the switch...you may ONLY see the two wires going to it.
I also need to see what bill validator you have and it's housing.
Could you open the door and take a photo of everything?
From there, I can tell you how to dis-assemble it, so you can work on the pull handle switch.
It's location is in the pull handle assembly and directly behind the cashbox.
The othe switch you see way up on top of the pull hanle assembly is the solenoid switch that releases the pull handle so you can pull it down.
But pulling the handle needs to activate another switch to tell the MPU that a bet has been played.

[IGTiger]

Wow, that was tricky.. I had to slide my phone across the half inch gap between the cashbox and power supply with a 5 second timer on to get this image lol



There is definitely a switch in there and it looks larger than the one I found.  There are no wires attached to it.

Here are the wires in question I believe may attach.. I hear yellow on top? No idea why they are not connected, unless previous owner detached because they were causing issues:

[IGTiger]

So I removed the cash box:



I then attached the wires that were not connected, yellow on top as I have seen in pictures:



The slot arm then functioned perfectly for the rest of the night!

Unfortunately today the arm is locking in the bottom position on a pull, but eventually releases as seen on this video.  Any ideas?

https://youtube.com/shorts/EAugXavv9TY?feature=shared

[Stayouttadabunker]

lol...you should of made sure it works before putting the BV back in.
There's a release pawl & spring that's staying closed & locking the arm.
It may be possibly bent slightly sideways and not opening enough to release the handle back to the return position.
Best way to service it is get BV back outta there & remove the handle.

There's a bolt that needs an Allen key to get out first.
It's at the bottom of the handle.
The bolt holds the handle to the shaft.
I took a picture of a 3/16th Allen in the end of the bolt for you.
Once you get the bolt out, slide out the handle and pull off the decorative IGT cap from the shaft.
In side, unhook the black 2-pin connector to the solenoid up top, and then the two wires (The solid Green one, and the Yellow wire with black stripe) to the switch.

Now, you need a 1/2" socket to remove the 3 nuts from the bolts holding the unit to the cabinet wall.
Once you havethe unit out, put it on a bench and you can turn the shaft with your hand while looking at how the spring pawl works to release the handle.
In order to release the solenoi, just pust solenoid's plunger inwards.
That will release the shaft handle so you can turn it.
It will click 4 times, then the last 1/2" of shaft turn, pushes the spring loaded pawl away from the teeth - so it allows the shaft to go back to starting position.
It's the little metal thing that holds the spring that sometimes gets bent outta shape.
Thee'a actually quite a bit to it, rollers, grease, etc etc.
This is a hobby...take your time...it's all mechanical...make sure it works right.
Re-bend it back straight and test it a few times before putting it all back into the cabinet.

[hotlsot]

the other problem that occurs with these older IGT handle mechs is the cam on the back of the handle assembly that gets gummed up. That will cause the handle to stick in the down position. find the cam hose it down with wd40 and agitate the cam. that should solve your problem. I do this without removing the handle assembly just by feel. it's easy to locate the cam, hard to get the wd40 sprayed on it.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I agree with you hotslot, but this fella is kinda new...
It's hard for him to "feel" for things back in there....he's lucky that orange backstop didn't melt on him! haha
That's why he kinda has to do it the hard way sorta...so he can SEE stuff and he'll learn how these things work too! 
Maybe with the video I made below, he can see the two pawls/cams that need to be cleaned up - as you said.

Here's a link to a short youtube video I made for IGTiger on my channel...>>>

https://youtu.be/DqBrt63_1cE?si=T_T6a5jmuwsRpOuW

[IGTiger]

Thanks guys..  Yes, definitely reminded that this is a hobby and its about the journey not the destination   I'll take my time.  I enjoy learning about this machine and its kind of a rush when I make a new discovery or breakthrough lol

[Stayouttadabunker]

When you do get the handle mech outta there, look at that cam/pawl under the solenoid.

Here's a little better video I made for ya...>>>

https://youtu.be/sYW1_vRny44?si=3AOVMxwy_rVFeEin

[IGTiger]

When you do get the handle mech outta there, look at that cam/pawl under the solenoid.

Here's a little better video for ya...>>>

https://youtube.com/shorts/sYW1_vRny44?si=SnnS7DbmCBR_Rgzc

Perfect, thanks!  Your video helped me understand what's going on in there while feeling around blind.  And with a couple rubs with my finger the arm is working again.  I'll rub some wd40 in there next and disassemble later when time allows.

Thanks again.

[Stayouttadabunker]

You're welcome!
Best news I've heard today! Awessome!!! 

[Jim]

its pretty easy to spray WD40 onto the pawl, there is a hole in the side of the mech right where it is located, spray using the extension and then work it with your finger, this will address the gummed up pawl. HOWEVER, I think you will continue to have a handle lock up problem.  I noticed in all your pictures, there is no orange or pearl colored bumper material in the picture, this material acts as an inertia dampener, what takes place!, when the handle is pulled down and released the handle will fly back, when it gets to the top end of its return there is nothing there to dampen the inertia so the handle has enough force to bounce back down several inches and lock in place. then you have to release by using your finger to release the pawl.

Hope this Helps.

Jim