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Author Topic: Bally 1090 - 1737  (Read 16639 times)

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Offline v-drive

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Bally 1090 - 1737
« on: August 23, 2014, 03:54:35 PM »
What's up everyone!? Just picked up my first machine, well two of them. One IGT that I got working perfectly and the other is a Bally 1090 silver dollar Made in 1975 I believe.

When I insert a silver dollar into the Bally 1090 the bell rings and the coins hit the hopper. When I do win nothing pays out. no noise, no movement nothing.

I am curious to know what I need to check on or do in order to fix this problem? All fuses are good, there is $20 in silver dollar coins in the unit and there is no tilt light that appears to come on. I have attached pictures for your viewing pleasure. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

- Nick

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2014, 05:55:43 PM »
Hello Nick and  :NLG_WELCOME:

First thing I would look at with your machine is the payout unit shown in your pic #4.. It the piece in the lower right rear corner of your machine. It has a set of contact on the front side. The spiral cam has a rubber stop bumper that gets sticky. When this happens those contacts will not open, causing the machine not to payout.. That rubber bumper can be replace with a pencil eraser. You can remove the payout unit by removing a couple screws and two white plugs. I would mark one plug with a marker. Once remover you can advance the payout solenoid and see if the zero switch contact open. Then just press the second solenoid and the spiral cam should spin back to the zero starting position. Hopefully this will help. If not let me know and we can check a few other things.

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Gary
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Offline v-drive

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2014, 07:25:36 PM »
Ripped that white bumper out, replaced with new eraser tip and still no luck....contact should be apart when set against stopper right?

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2014, 07:46:10 PM »
Ripped that white bumper out, replaced with new eraser tip and still no luck....contact should be apart when set against stopper right?

Just the opposite.. The two contacts are closed when the spiral cam is in the return position. Those should open as soon as the spiral cam is advanced. Your wiper contacts should be in the 6 o'clock position at zero. It is possible that your dash pot contacts, (located on the right side of the reels) at the far end of the air cylinder are not closed. If your handle is stiff, you might want to remove the white air cylinder, remove it and clean the old rubber seal out of it. Just use a light weight grease inside for the piston. Don't use a lot of grease or you will have a mess. Just a very, very light coating.. The dash pot contact need to be closed before the handles pulled..  Some of the other common problems are dirty or tarnished plug contact on the back of the reels that plug into the cabinet..

Gary
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Offline v-drive

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2014, 07:21:41 PM »
Is it possible that the dash pot contacts are gone?

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2014, 07:48:29 PM »
I don't see any sign of dash pot contacts.. I have seen some machines without them. One other thing you could check is the relay contacts on the hopper just above the plug. I like to check there operation of the contacts with my voltage meter set to ohm's.. That is the jackpot relay.
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If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2014, 08:15:54 PM »
Interesting...now once that spiral cam is advance, should the contacts remain open or just open and close once it is activated. I notice when I advance it manually, the points open very quick but close as i continue to advance it....pretty cool to really tear into a machine like this and see how it all works!

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2014, 10:00:59 PM »
Interesting...now once that spiral cam is advance, should the contacts remain open or just open and close once it is activated. I notice when I advance it manually, the points open very quick but close as i continue to advance it....pretty cool to really tear into a machine like this and see how it all works!

That single contact (zero) switch is only to be closed when the spiral cam returns back to zero. Once the spiral cam is advanced at all, those contacts should open and stay that way till the next plays starts. If you advance the spiral cam, you can coin up the machine and pull the handle. You should see it rewind back to zero starting position as the reels spin. It's very important to have that contact opening and closing, or you will not get a paid jackpot.

Gary
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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2014, 09:35:39 PM »
It was my understanding that the zero switch would be open when the spiral cam returns to zero and that it would close when the spiral cam moves during a payout. At least that is how it works for 5 and 25 cent machines. Is it different for dollar machines? :Scratch-Head:

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2014, 10:13:17 PM »
It was my understanding that the zero switch would be open when the spiral cam returns to zero and that it would close when the spiral cam moves during a payout. At least that is how it works for 5 and 25 cent machines. Is it different for dollar machines? :Scratch-Head:

Your right.. My bad  :fryingpan:  open when returned to zero and close as it advances.. Need to get my laptop fix, doing this on my phones a pain..  :hissyfit:
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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2014, 10:45:07 PM »
Lol. Ok, I got it now! Adjusted evrtything the way it should be. Put it all back together, plugged it in, threw 3 silver dollars in and hit two Cherries. Machine went off like crazy with the bell ringing and all. Only thing was is that the hopper didnt pay out any coins. Had to pull the hopper out which shut off the bell and now that everything is back together it won't do anything when I win again......

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #11 on: August 26, 2014, 11:06:40 AM »
Sounds to me that the payout relay switches are not making good contact. Is the wiper arm, which glides over the payout board on the hopper, moving when a win is hit? 

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #12 on: August 26, 2014, 11:51:25 AM »
Lol. Ok, I got it now! Adjusted evrtything the way it should be. Put it all back together, plugged it in, threw 3 silver dollars in and hit two Cherries. Machine went off like crazy with the bell ringing and all. Only thing was is that the hopper didnt pay out any coins. Had to pull the hopper out which shut off the bell and now that everything is back together it won't do anything when I win again......
Have you checked to see if your hopper isn't jammed up? Can you turn it by hand? Does it have a fuse under the hopper? You can bench test a hopper be attaching wires dirrectly to the motor.. I have a test cord with clip so I can test  hoppers. They do run on 120V.. I just run them for a few seconds on my table, never test one while its still inside the machine.. I have seen motors and gearboxes dried out. There are a couple oil holes that you can put a few drops of oil on the felt pads. Also check the hoppers brake located on the motor to make sure it's working..
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this site on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #13 on: August 27, 2014, 06:10:55 PM »
Motor is freed up. No fuse on the bottom hopper. Cherries make the winning bell go off but still no hopper action or payout. Now when I insert a coin it does nothing to even indicate that a coin was inserted into thenmachine. Think im missing something here...

Btw, where can we make donations?

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #14 on: August 27, 2014, 06:43:50 PM »
The donations are made thru PayPal. There should be a link on the bottom on the home page, and others. Sounds like your going to have to back up and start from the beginning. Make sure your coin switch on the left side of the reels work. I check them with my meter on ohms. Check the hoppers relays too. Look at the cabinets beau plugs that your reels plug into and make sure none of the connectors came loose and are clean. You also have all the contacts on the handle. I had one machine that I found a broken wire in the molex plug by the handle. The reels air cylinder linkage was pushing on the plug for so long the wire broke. So it's time to step back and start checking all connections, relays and plugs.

 Gary
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this site on line.
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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #15 on: September 28, 2014, 05:21:04 PM »
Fixed everything. Lights work, bells work etc. Winning combos still not paying and hopper isn't working. I can however manually lift the coin counter thing on the hopper and once it reached it max payout it shuts off. So the correct payout is working. I found these wires wrapped up under electrical tape and upon taking it off this loose wire appeared. Any ideas as to where this wire goes? It is yellow with blue stripe.

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2014, 05:32:43 PM »
Picture would help

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2014, 05:37:41 PM »
[dot][/[/b]dot]
Lol. Ok, I got it now! Adjusted evrtything the way it should be. Put it all back together, plugged it in, threw 3 silver dollars in and hit two Cherries. Machine went off like crazy with the bell ringing and all. Only thing was is that the hopper didnt pay out any coins. Had to pull the hopper out which shut off the bell and now that everything is back together it won't do anything when I win again......
Have you checked to see if your hopper isn't jammed up? Can you turn it by hand? Does it have a fuse under the hopper? You can bench test a hopper be attaching wires dirrectly to the motor.. I have a test cord with clip so I can test  hoppers. They do run on 120V.. I just run them for a few seconds on my table, never test one while its still inside the machine.. I have seen motors and gearboxes dried out. There are a couple oil holes that you can put a few drops of oil on the felt pads. Also check the hoppers brake located on the motor to make sure it's working..
Did you ever bench test your hoppers motor as I suggested above in the above post? If it run there then your problem is in the machine? It could just be dirty jackpot relay or the hopper to cabinet plug..
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this site on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2014, 05:44:23 PM »
it can only reach so far.. I would check that lower relay to see if you can see where it broke off.. Slide off the plastic insulator to check the connection. I would see how the wire is formed and how it lines up to the other solder connections.
Please remember to make a donation to NLG for mine/our help in repairing your machines problem.. Your donations help keep this site on line.
And remember...
If it's jammed, force it.. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyways...

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Re: Bally 1090 - 1737
« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2014, 06:16:49 PM »
This wire is cut clean. Pulled all plastic insulators and all have clean solder marks.

 

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