Bypass the Belly Switch

[paulzona]

Hello all,


       Looking for some help correctly bypassing the bellyswitch.  T/S the door optic and not sure what two cables should be together to bypass with the belly switch?  Thank you in advance.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Many cut the two wires at the switch and twist them together.

It's better that if you do this to add a small piece of shrink wrap tubing so the bare ends don't touch anything else metal.

Why do you want to bypass it anyway?

Is the switch broken?

[paulzona]

     Hello, the switch is not broke, I am having the Please Close The Main Door issue and not sure how the door and cabinet optics should be properly wired?  On the door side, I have the Rd/Wht and Grn/Blue ran down side of door and one dark grn (can't find now) cable has been cut was plugged into belly switch, there is the Rd/Wht cable cut by switch and not plugged in, also there is the Grn/Blue cable that is not plugged in but runs to a molex connector with another garnish cable.  What is the properly flow to have the door optic work on the door side?  Hope I am explaining this right, pics or video may be better to explain.
     Thanks in advance.


Yours truly,


Paul Zona

[Stayouttadabunker]

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=313.0

[paulzona]

No luck, with those steps and procedures either. This has to be the board.  Do you know of anything I can check with a multimeter on the board that is directly related to door open or close issue? 

[erbs]

Please post a pic of your board. Is there any damage where the varty battery is or was?

[paulzona]

Here's one.  Thanks in advance.

[Trisail]

Looks like the + and - connections are shorted together. I don't believe that's the way to mod/remove a Varta battery !

Here is the explanation in the FAQ -  http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=7931.0

Basically remove the battery and remove U16.....

[paulzona]

Correct, this picture was a bit old...I have removed the U 16 and the jumper too.  This is kicking my butt.  I just want it operational!

[Stayouttadabunker]

With the battery terminal locations shorted together like that...did this MPU EVER work in this cabinet? 

[paulzona]

No it has not worked.  I purchased it from a fellow that bought online and had shipped, which it never worked...that was 6 years ago.  I repeatedly asked did this ever work and he said no.  I have the slightest reason why he didn't return to company since he received the machine and it never worked.  Where do I go from here?

[Stayouttadabunker]

No it has not worked.

I'd be shopping around  by placing a WTB ad in the Classifieds section of NLG for a new MPU board.
Hopefully someone has a board for ya.

Here's hoping your game chips are ok.

[Sunrise Side]

Is the cash can/bill stacker  door switch bypassed

[paulzona]

That is bypassed yes.

[Trisail]

     Hello, the switch is not broke, I am having the Please Close The Main Door issue and not sure how the door and cabinet optics should be properly wired?  On the door side, I have the Rd/Wht and Grn/Blue ran down side of door and one dark grn (can't find now) cable has been cut was plugged into belly switch, there is the Rd/Wht cable cut by switch and not plugged in, also there is the Grn/Blue cable that is not plugged in but runs to a molex connector with another garnish cable.  What is the properly flow to have the door optic work on the door side?  Hope I am explaining this right, pics or video may be better to explain.
     Thanks in advance.


Yours truly,


Paul Zona

Not sure if this will help, but here is an explanation of the wires above -
The red/wht wire and the solid green wire are the wires for the LED - ( transmitter ) part of the door switch.
Without doing a picture or posting the schematic,

solid green wire goes to the belly door connection - it comes out of belly door as grn/blu wire to the main door LED connector - on the other side of the actual LED the connector has a red/wht wire going back to the MPU. These wires feed the signal to the LED -( transmitter ) of the transmitter / detector pair.

If you are just trying to get the Main door closed you need to work with the detector wires, just shorting them should work. I'm working off the schematic and have not found the color for the detector wires. Maybe someone else can provide that information. I will look at machine tonight and post tomorrow.

Tony

[Trisail]

Opps, this is S2000 - I don't think shorting the detector wires will work. The door optics work on the frequency of the LED flashing to make the door open go away. You may need to get the LED and detector both working. Sorry, my bad.

Tony

[Trisail]

The main door detector wires on the sensor itself are solid red and solid white. They go back to the motherboard - solid green and vio/blk.

[Retro tech repair]

Bridging the positive and negative together like that was one way people used to trick the board into thinking that varta was there before we learned of removing u16. It did work to some extent but since you were causing a dead short it typically did not work long term.