Another New guy needing help with what I believe is a 1034

[Jaxon]

Hello everyone.  Last Sunday I picked up, what I believe is, a Bally EM 1034.  I was fortunate enough to have stumbled upon this site while researching, and man am I glad I did.  I literally know nothing about these machines, nor am I knowledgeable on the skills needed to get one of them up and running.  However, having read numerous postings on this site, I feel with some help, I can eventually have a working slot machine! 
I have worked a few things out on my own, but now I need some expert advice on the hopper.  Specifically the motor.  But first... a few pics.

[Jaxon]

I need to replace the pictured capacitor, but for now I would like to use jumpers straight to the motor.  I will be jumping from my fuses.  I have two 110v 5a fuses on this machine.  one with white wires, and one with red and black. 
My question: What terminals should I connect to?  There are three terminals.  It appears that the right bottom one (with the arrow) at one time had held a connection.  Is it possible this was eliminated to bypass the capacitor and the delay system?

Thanks to all who help.  Trust me...I will have plenty more questions once I have the main componants up and running.

[Trisail]

The black wire on the motor should be AC hot. The white wire on the motor should be AC neutral. You can hook a 'patch' cord for testing from a 110 VAC household plug. I would use an outlet strip with an on/off switch. Best to do that with the hopper on the bench out of the machine.  I would not recommend doing it in the machine with it powered up. Too many questions about what you might 'back feed' through the wires on the machine, not to mention not knowing for sure if the black is actually AC hot and white is neutral.  If you want to see if the hopper works - bench testing would be the proper way to do that.

For the capacitor- get the capacitance value IE - 1000 ufd and the voltage rating IE - 200 vac. I can not tell from the picture what those values are, the values I did are just numbers I put in to give you an idea of what you would be looking for.  Picture of the cap with the numbers and I can tell. The yellow capacitor is an axial polarized cap, the end with the depressed part is the positive side, you install a replacement exactly like that with the positive end to the same wire, the negative side to the other wire. I can probably send you a replacement when you determine the value.  You can purchase one from online vendors if you like - Newark, Mouser, Digikey or others ...

PM me if you need more information or explanation.

[wolftalk]

paperwork for the machine is on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/

there's also bally manuals on the site...poke around as it's just directory/file listings right now.

there's at least 18 versions of the machine - plate below handle may say 1034 or 1034-X on it.  Top number is model, bottom is serial ... sometimes you game won't match the plate tho.

the difference between the models for the 1034 are probably not significant.  Different reel tapes, payback percentages, and stuff like electric door locks, but the main circuitry of the machine is probably very close between all the versions, so the basic 1034 schematic is useful.

a three terminal hopper motor is unusual.  Usually the 3rd terminal is for 50Hz vs 60Hz operation, and the white/blue wire would be attached to the appropriate terminal.

the slots switched between 120V and 220/240V volt operation by moving a plug between a couple different sockets.  The motor was designed to operate on 50 or 60 cycles, so nothing needed to be done to the motor.

in any case, look on the plastic near the terminals and see if something is printed there.

[Jaxon]

Thank you for your replies!
There is no info plate below the pull handle, but on the hopper written in black sharpie is 1034-6.

Everything on the machine seems to be working properly except for the hopper.  Of course I've come to learn that there are many more actions involved during and after the hopper kicks on and pays.  Hopefully it's just the capacitor.

I could definitely use some help with the capacitor.  The original reads:
TVA-150
30UF-250VDC

I know I've probably got a long road ahead of me and will most likely need various parts here and there.  Bulbs and such.  For some of the items, Ive been able to locate a few vendors referenced on this site.  But for right now I would just like to get my hands on a capacitor and a door locking mechanism (with lock cylinder).  So any help getting this stuff would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your help so far.  Many questions to follow. 

[Trisail]

I can get you a cap. If you don't need to lock the machine, I can supply  thumb/twist type lock if you are interested.  Even some lamps too.

PM me if you would like to discuss.

[wolftalk]

it's a standard capacitor - 30uf (microfarad), 250V axial lead electrolytic.  Note it has a + and - end and has to be connected the right way.

shipping can cost more than the cap, so see what trisail can do for ya,

however, the cap is part of the delay circuit.  It's job is to shut dow the entire machine if the hopper is running but the payout counter is not stepping up.  If the circuit doesn't work, the hopper would still turn on and spit out a few coins before the safety motor shut down the game.

when the reels stop on a winning combo, the payout relay under the hopper should power.  That turns on the hopper motor.

if your hopper motor is not turning on, first thing to check is what the payout relay is doing.  The payout relay coil has orange and orange/white wires on the lugs if you can't find a label.

you can push down the relay armature plate onto the coil top if you want to test the switches.  Depending on where the relay is, that can be easy or not so easy when the hopper is installed in the game.

the 1034 is a little more complicated than most games due to a safety relay.  That relay should not be powered or the payout relay is cut off.

[rdaniel]

That capacitor is really old. Notice the "Made in USA" designation?

[Jaxon]

I can get you a cap. If you don't need to lock the machine, I can supply  thumb/twist type lock if you are interested.  Even some lamps too.

PM me if you would like to discuss.

Thank you!  I will be reaching out soon.

[Jaxon]

A quick update:

So after pulling out and inspecting the hopper, I noticed the coin counter wheel was locked up tight so I broke it down and gave it a good cleaning.  Long story short...the hopper started working and I'm getting propert pay outs!

But now... I'm having some electrical problems.  I had my son come out to the garage to check out the progress on my new toy, and as he deposited the quarter, the machine shocked the crap out of him!  I had been wearing rubber soled boots, so I did not get shocked.  I put a volt meter on the outer front door and a home ground and got a reading of approximately 30 volts.  Is that normal?  I later saw that an orange line ends on the door and is then grounded to the door with a green line.  The main plug for the machine is missing the ground prong so I will be changing that out today.  I also noticed that someone jumped the fuse on the 110v load (black/red).

Are there any additional areas of concern related to electricity and grounding I should be aware of? 

Thank you so much for your help!

[Trisail]

Be careful!! Any AC voltage on the machine metal is Dangerous. You must have the Hot AC wire in the machine plugged in to the Hot AC side of your household outlet. Same for the AC Neutral wire.

Remove that jumper on the 110 V fuse. It was designed to keep the machine from hurting anyone and the machine, like parts catching fire.

It is not the end of your machine - But you need someone that is able to safely determine what is wrong and how to plug the machine in to the outlet. It can be done with knowledge and a meter.

The machine probably was not designed with a ground prong on the cord. It is pretty old.

I am not trying to scare you - I am concerned you or someone may get hurt. You need someone that can work on your machine safely - with knowledge of AC wiring. I believe most of the parts in the machine use 50 VAC and below - except any fluorescent lights and service outlet if one exists.

PM me - please. 

[wolftalk]

per the schematic,
- the black wire from your power cord should go to the fuse with the white/blue wire on it.
- the white wire from power cord goes to the fuse with the red wire on it

technically, if that's ok and you have a power plug that can only go in the wall one way - and your house is wired correctly - the fuse with the red wire isn't protecting anything.  Can't hurt to stick a 5A fuse in there tho.  Both of the 110V fuses should be 5A.

solid orange wire (70) in the game is the 50V "hot" wire.  It should not connect to the chassis directly - at least nowhere touchable from the outside.  Got a picture?

[DavidLee]

All great advice.
If the machine occasionally blew the fuse, someone could have bypassed the fuse and kept the machine running.
Best to inspect wiring as your working on areas of the machine.
One area that is overlooked is at the upper door hinge.
Wires closest to the metal door frame on occasion wear through.
Look closely, wires with light color insulation makes it harder to see the bare wire.
It just takes the slightest exposure to cause a short.

Also, inspect for loose wire strands, balls of solder or metallic parts that might of dropped into the machine, contacts stuck together and beau-plug pins that might of pushed out of the in casement.

Wolftalk, would it be possible to jump a yellow wire with a meter in between to the case?
As to check for voltage running though the metal position of the cabinet?

[Jaxon]

I could have been more clear on the orange wire grounding on the door.
I should have said, both an orange line and a green ground line meet at the coin deflector.  The green line is then attached to the door as a ground.  Here are the pics...

[Jaxon]

Since replacing the plug, I am no longer detecting any voltage from the housing of the machine.  I also removed the fuse jumper mentioned previously.  It calls for a 5a fuse, but I only have 10a for now.  So far, the fuse is holding up.  I'm sure that doesn't mean any type of short has been fixed, but at least now simply touching the machine is not a shocking experience.  I will continue to insect the wiring while I go through the machine.

On a sadder note... I broke the payout/odds glass.  It slipped out of my hands after I removed it while checking on some wiring.

Also having some payout issues so I'm reading up on the numerous posts that address such issues.  I'll keep you posted.  Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

[DavidLee]

A couple of steps forward and one slip back.
Sorry to hear about the glass.
Most likely there’s a glass out there for the machine.
The very top portion might be different, but the payouts will be the same.
Check eBay, vendors on this site or maybe someone on the NLG site has one.

Possibly start a new post “Looking for top/ odds glass”
Include photo.

[wolftalk]

I could have been more clear on the orange wire grounding on the door.
I should have said, both an orange line and a green ground line meet at the coin deflector.  The green line is then attached to the door as a ground.  Here are the pics...

that's is .. bizarre.

I'd remove the green wire fromt he machine - immediately.  It is tying the cabinet to the 50V power wire.

if you have a properly grounded power cord, it also creates an odd path between the transformer secondary voltages and the earth ground.

you want the entire cabinet to be at earth ground, and that happens when your power cord green wire is tied to the metal in the cabinet.  The door is connected via the metal hinges.


 

[Jaxon]

I could have been more clear on the orange wire grounding on the door.
I should have said, both an orange line and a green ground line meet at the coin deflector.  The green line is then attached to the door as a ground.  Here are the pics...

that's is .. bizarre.

I'd remove the green wire fromt he machine - immediately.  It is tying the cabinet to the 50V power wire.

if you have a properly grounded power cord, it also creates an odd path between the transformer secondary voltages and the earth ground.

you want the entire cabinet to be at earth ground, and that happens when your power cord green wire is tied to the metal in the cabinet.  The door is connected via the metal hinges.

I will definitely do that and see how she reacts.

[Jaxon]

On another note...

Earlier I mentioned I was having some payout issues.  After having the machine on and playing for 30/45 minutes or so, I start to get some strange payouts.  Eventually it will stop paying out alltogether.  I found that the wiper assembly/cam/ratchet & shaft lock up pretty tight.  I can move it manually, but it takes enough effort that there is no way the torsion spring alone can move it.  When I turn the machine off, after about 10 or 15 minutes, it resets to zero no problem...till the issue repeats itself.  I even heard it reset last night after having turned it off.  I have lubricated all the moving parts, and it works great until it doesn't. 
Could this somehow bed heat related?  I have no other explanation.  Has anyone else had this issue?  Can anyone recommend a possible solution?

As always, thanks for your help and replies! 

[wolftalk]

is the problem getting the reset coil plunger to pull in and lift the pawls off the ratchet teeth, or is the ratchet/wipers not spinning easily?

hold in the reset plunger and you should be able to spin the wipers and let go .. they should whizz back to reset.

have you taken the ratchet out of the unit?  If so, did you use some kind of lubricant on the shaft when reinstalling?  If yes, what did you use?