Author Topic: Another new person to slots....igt s+ double diamond, stuck in idle door open (Read 13072 times)

knagl · « **Reply #100 on:** December 30, 2017, 12:24:33 AM »

Do you have a RAM clear chip? That could potentially help at this point if the machine is somehow stuck.

Also, you mentioned you reseated the MPU board a few times -- hopefully you did that with the power off? Always ensure the power is turned off before removing or inserting the MPU board into the motherboard (the motherboard is the fixed board in the bottom of the machine that the removable MPU board mates to).

Badbaud · « **Reply #101 on:** December 30, 2017, 02:28:42 AM »

See the attached layout of the backplane board.
J10 pin one is the pin that connects the door optic receiver to the computer board.
That is the closest pin to the triangle marking on the connector.
Nearest the edge of the board.
Remove the plug and see if that pin is bent over and not making contact.

falconross · « **Reply #102 on:** December 30, 2017, 07:55:35 AM »

I have a SS4251 and a I can't tell what the other chip is as the sticker looks like it is missing. I'll post a picture. As far as replacing the MPU, yes, I always made sure the power was off, and no, unfortunately I don't have a RAM clear chip. I'll take a look at the J10 pin. Thanks for all the suggestions!

therockinelvis · « **Reply #103 on:** December 30, 2017, 08:36:59 AM »

That could be the trouble. No sticker blocking the window can erase the chip.

falconross · « **Reply #104 on:** December 30, 2017, 08:51:04 AM »

oh wow, had no idea...should I put something back over the window, or is it too late?

falconross · « **Reply #105 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:13:02 AM »

I did some looking for the sticker and no luck...I was hoping maybe it fell off during one of the times I pulled the MPU board out, but if it did, I don't see it.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #106 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:23:51 AM »

I wouldn't worry a lot about the missing label. It takes a lot of UV light exposure at a certain specific frequency of UV light to erase the eprom. Not likely it could do that inside the machine. Almost nothing in science is impossible but this would be a long-shot thing to happen, in my opinion. When installed your mpu board faces the metal wall of the machine cabinet, so there is no direct exposure to any light.

You can buy a ram CLEAR chip from several vendors here on NLG, or find them for sale elsewhere. It is an eprom, your remove the eprom on your mpu board that is marked "GAME PROM" (also called the SP chip, the one without the label in your case) and install the CLEAR chip in its place, then power up the machine and it clears everything back to factory default condition. Using a CLEAR chip is not something you want to do unless nothing else has fixed a stubborn problem. If your machine has a bill validator then you will also need to get a SET chip to re-enable the bill validator after doing the CLEAR ram process because the CLEAR sets the bill validator to "disabled". CLEAR and SET chips are often sold as a pair.

falconross · « **Reply #107 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:41:07 AM »

Ok, thanks. On the clear chip, do I leave it in, or do I put the original chip back in after I clear everything out? What about unhooking the battery? Would that possibly clear everything out? I read that it takes about 45 min once battery is removed due to a capacitor keeping some residual voltage. If I did remove batt, would quickly removing and reinstalling possibly clear my problem? From what I read, if batt is removed for longer that 45 everything is cleared. Is that doing the same thing as a clear chip then?

falconross · « **Reply #108 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:42:30 AM »

Also, on the clear chip, would it be replacing the chip with the missing sticker in my case? What about the other chip with the sticker?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #109 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:43:40 AM »

Yes, the CLEAR chip replaces your SP chip that is missing the label. After the CLEAR chip has done its thing you turn power off to the machine and remove the CLEAR chip, put your SP chip back where it was. You don't do anything with the other chip (the SS chip).

Here is a good explanation on how to do the CLEAR ram process:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16134.msg86119#msg86119

rokgpsman · « **Reply #110 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:48:49 AM »

Quote from: falconross on December 30, 2017, 09:41:07 AM

Ok, thanks. On the clear chip, do I leave it in, or do I put the original chip back in after I clear everything out? What about unhooking the battery? Would that possibly clear everything out? I read that it takes about 45 min once battery is removed due to a capacitor keeping some residual voltage. If I did remove batt, would quickly removing and reinstalling possibly clear my problem? From what I read, if batt is removed for longer that 45 everything is cleared. Is that doing the same thing as a clear chip then?

I doubt if removing the battery would be helpful but I guess you could try that if you want to. Only need to unsolder one leg of the battery. The CLEAR chip actually rewrites the data stored in the cmos ram so that it is set back to factory default settings. Having a dead battery allows the cmos ram data to change to random settings, so that isn't the same as doing a CLEAR ram process.

falconross · « **Reply #111 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:54:50 AM »

Yeah, thats what I was thinking, just heating up one leg, removing it for a bit, then replacing. I will get the clear chip, but that's gonna be a bit due to the holiday, so I wanted to try something in the meantime. Thanks

therockinelvis · « **Reply #112 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:58:04 AM »

If it were me, I would order a new sp chip with the clear and set. Only about $10 more and if needed you'll have it. Just my opinion. Not near my notes to know what sp for dd deluxe.

falconross · « **Reply #113 on:** December 30, 2017, 10:01:08 AM »

ok thanks, probably a good idea in case that chip is indeed bad. What about the SS chip, should I get that while i'm at it?

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #114 on:** December 30, 2017, 10:03:26 AM »

You mentioned be removing and inserting the MPU did make it work at some point. Have you inspected all the pins on the MPU edge connector.? Can you get a good closeup of the motherboard/backplane board with the MPU removed?

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #115 on:** December 30, 2017, 10:07:59 AM »

Also a pic of the MPU with the battery location

falconross · « **Reply #116 on:** December 30, 2017, 10:43:07 AM »

here are some pics of backplane board, and batt

falconross · « **Reply #117 on:** December 30, 2017, 11:44:42 AM »

Well, removing the battery for a bit worked!!!! The first time I removed the positive leg for a few moments and resoldered, nothing happened. I removed the leg again and let it set for an hour and when I put MPU back in I got the 61 error. I was never so happy to see the 61 error, lol! I pushed test button, got the chime, used jackpot key and it came back to life. The coin comparitor is even working now and the machine seems to be working great. I was give a huge bag of tokens and been playing them and the machine cashes out as well. So excited!! Thanks to all who helped!!

Amechanic · « **Reply #118 on:** December 30, 2017, 02:33:45 PM »

That's good news.

Sounds like your games MPU had some how for some reason locked up? Does your machine payout on every win? Some S+ games chips will give you the option of letting winning go to credit or paying out after every win. This is selected by pushing the cash out button. One way it lights up, the and other way the buttons lights off..

falconross · « **Reply #119 on:** December 30, 2017, 03:05:49 PM »

This machine will give you the option of credit or payout. Yeah, I must have gotten myself into test mode. Glad that's over with!

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Author Topic: Another new person to slots....igt s+ double diamond, stuck in idle door open (Read 13072 times)