Author Topic: connectors not connected, etc (Read 3405 times)

Kindaconfused · « **on:** November 17, 2019, 07:32:10 AM »

purchased used s-2000 triple diamond deluxe ( hopefully pic attached successfully...newbie here )
owner "claimed" used to work, got stuck on a jackpot and couldn't figure out how to shut off. After purchase at I hope was a reasonable price, I began to search online for info. plugged in machine, and candle lit along with alarm sounding. turned reset key and alarm stopped but candle kept lit. quarters just drop through machine. removed hopper, reels, top glass plate, circuit board so I could see what overall condition was. Green battery was corroded and both batteries tested dead. ordered battery set and intend to replace both. wiring connectors ( maybe a dozen ) are hanging not connected to anything and one cable containing multiple wires was cut off and plug at other end not connected to anything. also, bill changer has nothing connected to the rear end and no connector on harness.
current plan: replace two batteries, put everything back in place. turn on and start to diagnose.
am I headed in the right direction?
btw...this is my first machine. scared as heck, but cant stop working on it.

Tilt · « **Reply #1 on:** November 17, 2019, 08:37:16 AM »

The cash can switch that doesn't have any wires on it and that cable were part of the player tracking, it's not needed.

The green varta battery that corroded isn't needed for home use and most people remove it so it doesn't leak and destroy traces on the MPU board. If you got yours removed before it damaged the board consider yourself lucky and don't put a new one on. The coin cell battery is the main battery and is needed for proper machine operation. Replace it, remove the varta and clean up any remaining corrosion. When you reinstall the MPU if you have Door Open M or door Open MB errors that won't clear with the door closed then the MPU board circuit traces were damaged and you'll need to get a new one or modify it to bypass the the damaged circuits.

Kindaconfused · « **Reply #2 on:** November 17, 2019, 09:16:44 AM »

Tilt...
thanks for the rapid reply, and hugely helpful advice. I will follow it.
in reply...
1. battery on order, and will follow your instructions.
2. next question would be regarding the misc unattached connectors, and are they needed ( guess when I replace battery and fire it up I will find out anyhow lol ) will attach pic of a few. some black some others white not shown in pic.
3. As thanks for your fast assistance and greatly appreciated help, please direct this newbie on exactly how to contribute to the site. I will gladly assist with my fair share.
thnx again Tilt.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #3 on:** November 17, 2019, 10:15:00 AM »

The gray and turquoise wires next the EZ Pay are not needed....press little tab in center of black Molex and wiggle out.
Show us pics of other loose ends and we'll tell you what to do.

Tilt · « **Reply #4 on:** November 17, 2019, 10:19:03 AM »

Those were part of the player tracking system as well and can be removed. The gray wires above it are likely as well, I can't see where they're plugged in the picture. If you trace them out they probably go to the topbox and aren't connected to anything up there. If that's the case you can disconnect and remove them as well.

You should be able to somewhat test your MPU board now. Turn the machine on (leave the door open). The alarm should go off, turn the jackpot reset key and read and follow the instructions in the VFD on the door. It will say RAM error, turn the key, it'll tell you to press and hold the self test button for 2 - 3 seconds (it's the button on the MPU board by leds). Do that, then it will tell you to close the main door. Close the door and firmly push the latch all the way down. If the machine sees the door close you may be in luck. If not, the battery probably ate through the circuit traces that are under the varta battery. If successful, you'll get to a message that says Main Battery Low and you won't be able to do anything else with it until you replace it.

Kindaconfused · « **Reply #5 on:** November 29, 2019, 12:45:47 PM »

ok..Thanksgiving with family finally over, now back to the mission.

I replaced the batteries. Reinserted board, turned on switch, but no change. No lights or message on board showing error codes. hit reset white button for three seconds anyways. Nothing. Also, removed unnecessary wires as you suggested afterward. First two new pics are two views of one connector hanging, next seems to be a ground wire for a missing component? Lastly, an electrical cord with nothing plugged into it. These are all located in the top cabinet area. By the way, the alarm and candle still light up, but no message board display or any other activity occurs.
So, with a new battery and still no display, what do I look for next?
hope you all had a nice Thanksgiving Day.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #6 on:** November 29, 2019, 01:13:34 PM »

The 3-pinMolex connector held with the white zip tie going to the sound amp board is fine...leave it zipped...

The rest, remove or just leave there if you want...Red X means not needed ...>>>

qbert · « **Reply #7 on:** November 29, 2019, 05:41:39 PM »

Post a picture of the mpu with close up of where the green battery is/was. Do not replace the green battery as stated above. It is not necessary and just causes problems in the future.

Kindaconfused · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2019, 08:00:01 AM »

Each plug/wire you noted with a red x is now tagged with green tape so I will remember they have been eliminated from those connections needing to be figured out yet. I guess I messed up when I replaced the disk battery, because I also replaced the green one as noted in the pics. The original battery was corroded as shown in the one picture. I removed and cleaned the board best I could prior to replacing. I can take the new one off if you think I should.
Also, I read in another post here that someone had no display on the error viewer ( don't know the actual term) and replaced the small board in the door by it which solved their problem. What cha think?
btw...red x's helped a kindaconfused beginner like me out a lot. thanks.
last pic is another unknown connector.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2019, 08:57:21 AM »

Red X's...yeah....all you need is the wires that go to the amp for power/sound signal and green/white wires for the speakers.

Also the wires that go to the fluorescent ballast and candle lamp.

Don't use that last blue/black connector....it's for 115VAC and poorly constructed because the below your pinky finger are bare wires.

Let me see a picture of on top of your Power Distribution panel box on the back wall.

The PD box is the one the ribbon cable and wall out outlet is plugged into.

I want to make sure your connectors on top of it are good.

Remove the green Varta battery ASAP...everything is corroding.

There's several topics about how to do this and cleaning up of that area before your MPU board is toast.

Tilt · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2019, 09:28:50 AM »

Too late, that MPU board is toast. You can see where the acid has damaged the traces. Time to find a new one.

Kindaconfused · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2019, 02:03:14 PM »

115 connector lying there now removed from cabinet. requested pics attached. all including loose connectors are in bottom cabinet. board is a 7551050.
If I need a new board, do I find a 7551050, and will it come with all chips, etc that I will need? any leads on where to best buy from?

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2019, 02:55:19 PM »

Okay....pull out the main power cord from the wall outlet.

I don't want you to get shocked.Now pull out the white Molex that's marked with the little label [C9].

It has a very short pigtail of the same color.

Undo that pigtail from the brown/Green/Blue Molex connector and plug it into the top of the Power Distribution board where the [C9] was.

You may now pull carefully pull up that white harness thru the top box if you wish.

Of course it's needed because again, that's harnessing just for player tracking in casinos.

Afterwards, you may plug the power plug from the machine into the wall outlet and turn on your machine.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #13 on:** November 30, 2019, 03:03:40 PM »

More player tracking stuff not needed...once unplugged, can be all removed from machine or pulled up and stored in topbox.

Keep the black Molex plugged into the left side.
That may be needed for [COM] communication between your MPU and
a topbox peripheral device later on.

Blue/Black/Yellow harnesses are not needed - that's player tracking stuff for casinos.

Tilt · « **Reply #14 on:** November 30, 2019, 03:10:50 PM »

A new MPU board will come with everything except for the game software. You'll have to remove the base chip, two stepper games chips, and the version chip from your existing MPU and install them on the replacement. I'd check with Midwest slots (Jim) and see if he has any available.

Kindaconfused · « **Reply #15 on:** December 17, 2019, 04:54:56 PM »

Bought a new mpu board from Jim. Removed base, two steppers, and version chip...very carefully, checked the pins and reinstalled into new board. Put new mpu into machine. No change. Candle still lit, but no alarm sounding, fluorescent light is lit and light for bill changer lit. Fan is on. Nothing else happens. No movement of reels, no clicks, and no light or messages on the error message area on the left of the door. pic of new board attached. So, whats next guys? should I replace the smaller board in the door by the error message device, or should I buy a clear and reset chip set? Or....is it possible there is a plug not connected that initiates the movement? Oh...forgot to say that the yellow and red lights are lit up on the board after I installed it. Tried turning the reset key on the outside above the lever, and holding in the white button on the mpu for three seconds. nothing.

Tilt · « **Reply #16 on:** December 17, 2019, 06:04:48 PM »

Ok it looks like you have everything installed correctly on the new board. Check the DC power supply voltages and see what they look like. The easiest place to check it is right on back of the 7 segment LED display in the door. The red wire should have +13V and the orange +25V. The +25 is working since the lights and fans come on, but check it anyhow. Your +13V may be low or missing completely. Here's a picture of the connector and wires to use for test points. The black (negative) lead can go anywhere on the metal frame.

Jim · « **Reply #17 on:** December 18, 2019, 10:32:29 AM »

red light usually means a software problem, either bent pins on a chip or bad chips, I know the board is good, I put the board in a machine and let them run for at least 24 hours burn in.

Jim

Kindaconfused · « **Reply #18 on:** December 20, 2019, 02:29:15 PM »

sorry about the misleading last post of mine. the lights that are on are two yellow, and one green. NO red. I am sure Jims board is fine. Looked clean and cared for. As for the DC check, I am about to ask a very stupid question....I assume the machine should be turned OFF when I touch the probe to the wire, and the black to the grounded cabinet, correct?
btw...my cheap meter had a broken wire so I got another one. hence the delays in testing.
My wife seems to think that I am supposed to Christmas shop, and pay attention to family instead of tinkering with my slot machine...geez.

Tilt · « **Reply #19 on:** December 20, 2019, 03:23:43 PM »

Sheez, some women just don't understand a slot addicts priorities

. Ok, green and two yellow LEDs are good. The red led you stated earlier had me thinking that the power supply may be bad. You check the voltage with the power on. It's probably good since it looks like the MPU board is booting, but might as well check them anyhow and then you'll know that the power supply is good.

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Author Topic: connectors not connected, etc (Read 3405 times)