Igt s plus 5 times pay

[Patrickmerc]

This is on the back of the hopper. There's another one of these optic boards is inside the machine with the wires to it cut. There's no wiring anywhere near it.??

[Patrickmerc]

This is the one in the machine

[Stayouttadabunker]

Those two small boards have an emitter and reciever optic on them so that they can "see" each other when you shove in the hopper.
That was a rarely used security connection option that some casinos used.
It would set off a sensor to the backroom computer, whenever the hopper was pulled out.
If there's a wire broken, that's not a big problem...just splice the same colored wires back together, and wrap with some electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
However, it shouldn't affect whether or not your door is open or closed.
The various door sensors and door optics determine that.

What you could do for now, is follow the wires back from those two small boards, and pull out the plugs.
The machine doesn't need any hopper connection optics to work.
It only needs the optics that counts the coins coming out of the bowl.
Take a picture of where the wires go back to and show us.
We'll be able to tell you if you can remove it or not.

Also, if you can, let us know what SP chip you have installed in the GAME PROM socket on the MPU.
I stress...never pull out or install any circuit board with the power switch ON.
It causes shorts and burns out stuff.

[Patrickmerc]

Here's the pictures you asked for. The small circuit board inside the machine has the wires cut and there's no wiring anywhere near it that matches up.

[Stayouttadabunker]

...The small circuit board inside the machine has the wires cut and there's no wiring anywhere near it that matches up.

You don't need it and there's no photos of wires being cut.

I must ask again...lol...What SP chip is installed?
I want to review the PSR sheet on it to see if there's anything in it that mentions anything about a coin hopper needing security optics.

[Patrickmerc]

Sp 731

[Stayouttadabunker]

That's an old SP chip.
There's nothing in it that mentions anything about hopper security optics.
I'm suspecting that some casino had it mounted to their hoppers and beau plugs at some point.
It could be some aftermarket security item or an IGT option we haven't really seen too much in the home market.
Since the wires are cut and there's no plug or harness end, I'm guessing that the end of it at some point, went to an SAS COM 1 board, which in turn, sent signals back to the casinos' backroom computer.
I doubt it has/had anything to do with the door being in an open state.

okay, the candle on the topbox...is it a two-stage candle?
Meaning, does it have two bulbs in it, and verified working?
The top half of the candle should be flashing....IF the door is open.
Also, the [Insert Coin] lamp should be on, if you haven't been able to add any credits to the machine.

Where is the little white test button in your cabinet?
And...did you unplug/plug back in the connectors on the back of the long display yet?

[Patrickmerc]

I just bought and installed the sp chip. Is it good to use? The candle is two stage and they both are flashing at the same rate. Rapidly. I still have no digital display or a insert coin light. The 25 cent goes on and off when I move the connector slightly. The white button is right below the comparitor. It doesn't do anything when I push it.

[jay]

I hate to ask but is the chip installed in the right way ?

There is a small hole on top of the chip and it aligns with the small indent on the MPU socket.
If its in backwards you can get this kind of behavior.

Also please make sure there are no legs bent underneath.
Sometimes when inserting a chip a leg bends inwards. It looks like its in the socket but sadly folded underneath.

[sixcardmark]

I just bought and installed the sp chip. Is it good to use? The candle is two stage and they both are flashing at the same rate. Rapidly. I still have no digital display or a insert coin light. The 25 cent goes on and off when I move the connector slightly. The white button is right below the comparitor. It doesn't do anything when I push it.

Check that connection if light goes on and off when you move connector.  Also, that is NOT the machine's test button under the CC.  That is the pseudo coin-in button on the coin-in optics, it should ding and give a credit when you push it. The machine's test button is usually located next to or behind the machine's on-off switch. (older cabinets it may be in a different place)

[Stayouttadabunker]

Look at your photo below.
I think you have a broken or loose ground wire.
I can tell you which color wire it is if you tell us which connector makes that .25 cent lamp go off and on?
I numbered both of them for ya.   

oh...your test button can also be on the MPU enclosure panel, under the door harness connector coming out of it, if your MPU is located on the left wall of the cabinet.
If your MPU is located on the back floor of your machine's cabinet, then the test button is up next to the power switch or behind it - like sixcardmark said.

Finally, you said BOTH halves of the candle are flashing....do you have a jackpot?
Turn the Jackpot Reset key on the right hand side of your machine once?

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[Patrickmerc]

It's connector number 2. The test button is next to the power switch I misunderstood you earlier. I have tried the rest key it doesn't make a difference

[Patrickmerc]

The connector orientation?The white reset button is to the right of the power switch

[Stayouttadabunker]

The connector is oriented correctly and looks to be in good...just wanted you to unplug it and plug it back a few times to rub off any oxidization on the pins...kinda like battery acid on terminals in a car. Sometimes unplugging and replugging connector helps get new electrical contact and things working again.

okay...you're saying that both lamps in the candle are flashing slowly and at the same time right?
That means the door is closed, and is why no credits go onto the display when you pressed the Service Credit button on the coin-in optics board underneath the coin comparitor - it does NOT work if the door is in a closed state.
That could also mean your door optics are not "opening" for some reason or they're bypassed and a cherry switch is stuck closed?
Start taking more pictures of everything.

IF the top half of the candle was flashing slow and the bottom half was flashing twice as fast, the door would be in an open state.
This also means that the machine is in a "paying mode".
It probably hasn't been completed.
You need to take more pictures of your machine.
Let's see the front with whatever lights are on and inside on the door as well as in the hopper area.
Because I have more questions that will help us help you but I cannot see anything.

Do you have a coin in the coin compritor?
If so what kind?
Are there coins in the hopper?
The machine will remain in this state until it finishes paying out.
With no display, we don't know where it's at in the "Paying " state.
We're lucky to have a working candle, to tell us what's going on, at least!

I want to see if there's any corrosion on your motherboard as well...the one on the floor that the MPU plugs down into.
The more you can show us, the better we can help you instead of guessing or this topic will run into a hundred posts and questions for a simple problem.
I want you to get another display in case this one is burned out.
Did you EVER see it working?

Below, I've attached a sheet of candle codes.
Your machine is in a "ALL PAYS - DOOR CLOSED" state right now.
That's why earlier I asked you to turn the Jackpot Reset Key (It's NOT called a "rest" key).
I wanted to see if it would knock off a jackpot, but without a working display, we don't know what is going on.

Go buy an IGT S+ Long Reel Glass Display, and swap it with this non-working one...they don't cost much.
Before you ask, put a WTB ad in the Classifieds section of NLG and hopefully a member vendor can sell you one.
Wiggle the connector (#1, or the connector towards the door latch), and see if the digital part comes on at all?
Might be just loose?

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[Patrickmerc]

I have a quick question before I start working on it. Do I need to drill out the rivits on the display board to remove it? The display worked when I bought it. It had the burnt pin the connector. I replaced the power supply harness and the motherboard and I have not had a display since.

[Stayouttadabunker]

NO ..look underneath.  There's three nuts.

[Patrickmerc]

Does anyone know how to test the door optics on this s plus 5 times pay

[jay]

The theme does not matter.
Use a cell camera to look at the optics.
The emitter will show a bit of ir light that the camera will pick up.

The candle flashing is a good indicator that it sees your door open.
Do a search for candle codes on the site.
When you close the door the reels will spin once and land on the last played position.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Does anyone know how to test the door optics on this s plus 5 times pay

Jay mentioned one way to test the door emitter optic with a cellphone camera.

The best way to check if the cabinet reciever optic is getting power is to use a multi-meter set to 20Vdc, and the reciever optic disconnected, I get a fluctuating power reading bouncing between 8.5 - 8.7 volts on the harness that runs to the cabinet rciever optic.
The harness will have doubled-green wires and a single red wire going to the Molex housing.

To check if the cabinet reciever optic actually works, touch both ends of the male pins inside the housing with your multimeter set at 200 milivolts DC.
Put the red multimeter probe on the back of the housing 's pin w/the white wire.
Put the black multimeter probe on the back of the housing's pin w/the red wire.
When you shine flashlight into the optic, watch the numbers on the multimeter jump about 30-50 milli-volts.
Now you know it works.

[Jim]

your reply #32 tells me why you do not have a display, you put one of the connectors in the wrong place. probably put the meters connector in J14 instead of J5.

use the flip cards in the Splus section , run test 13, that will check the door optics.

Hope this Helps

Jim