1992 IGT-S Plus DOUBLE DIAMOND 3LINE 61 error will not advance

[Maverick Mo]

Hello,
        Great info on these forums.

    On my way to get an old beast found on Craigslist up and running again and ran into a problem. Error code 61 and will not reset. So looked around on it and also noticed the coin comparitor not getting any power. So looked more, and behold missing a cable. Anyone have an extra or know the name of this cable so I can get a new one. The plug missing comes off a 6 prong plug on the mpu board box just above the reset switch, and looks to go back up to another female flat plug coming from the wiring harness at the door hinge. Posting some pic so you all can have a look.
Info: 1992 IGT-S Plus Double Diamond 3 line
Powers up good.
First code was 12, so I replaced the battery.
Now, stuck on 61 and will not budge, never goes 61-1 after turning key.
Close inspection revealed a missing cable.
Thanks all.

[Shaggy]

Welcome to NLG, The pics are different from mine but I'm not sure a coin comparitor would cause the 61 loop. The loop has to do with the machine play not coin input. That being said, You might have two things going on. You may need to clear the 61 then work with the c/c. Not sure on this but usually two different things don't cause a common error.

[Maverick Mo]

Ok great thanks for the tip. I will do that.

[knagl]

S+ machines tend to have lots of extra cables and/or connectors in them that aren't typically needed.  In particular, the cable in your second picture (flat black connector with a lot of gray wires going to it, located along the hinge of the door) is for the light stepper box that mounts behind the reel glass on multi-line games.  Even on those games it's optional.  Despite the fact that you have a 3-line game, you can safely tuck that cable back in to where it came from and forget that it's there.

The coin comparator light won't come on until the machine is ready to accept a coin.  When it's in a tilt (error) state like it is now, it is not ready to accept a coin, so there's no light on the comparator.  Additionally, even without the error code on the machine, the game won't be ready to accept a coin unless the door is closed, so the reality is that you'll pretty much never actually see that light on.

Finally, 61 is a very common error, especially after a chip or battery change.  You stated that the original error was "18" -- hopefully you meant to say "12", as that's a low battery error code.

To clear a 61 error, press and hold the white self-test button (typically located next to or directly behind the power toggle switch, although if it's not there then it looks like it's mounted on the enclosure for the MPU board on your particular machine, as seen in the top picture you posted) for about five seconds.  The machine should "ding" if the speaker is working, and the display will change to "61  1".  At that point, close and fully latch the door, and turn the jackpot reset key on the side of the machine once and release.  The machine should then boot up and be ready to accept coins.

If the "61  1" changes back to a "61", then you're likely in the "61 loop" (tends to happen sometimes after a battery change), and you'll need a clear chip.  We can cross that bridge when we get there, though.

For your reference, a list of common IGT error codes and their resolutions can be found here:  http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/

[rickhunter]

For the record, that flat black connector you have pictured is for a stepper lightbox used to backlight the selected paylines.  The game will play fine without it.

[Maverick Mo]

Update: Yes my first error was 12 not 18 so I changed the battery and then could not get it to do anything after that, stuck on error 61. So bought a clear chip and put it in.
Powered up and heard a ding and got a 0 in Winner paid , blank in credits and 0 in Coins played.
Pushed the white test button two times and nothing happened.  Credit meter did not count up.
Candle has top light off and bottom light is blinking fast in idle door open mode.
Any ideas as to what to look at next.
I can post pics of anything you need. Thanks

[CVslots]

Did you install the Clear chip with the notch facing the correct direction? There is a notch on one end of the EPROM (chip). The chip needs to be installed with the notch pointing the same direction as the other chips on the board. It's a common mistake to make.

[Maverick Mo]

Thanks, I did a double check and made sure the notch was correct. Even put the game chip back and it went back to the 61 error again. Does it take a while for these things to warm up.
My hobby is electro-mechanical pinball machines

[CVslots]

Darn it...no, unfortunately, they need no warm-up, lol. I don't want to say it, but if I don't someone else will, but there is a possibility the Clear chip is no good. It has a homemade label, correct?

[Maverick Mo]

Ordered clear chip from e-bay a got it today.  Both the game chip and reel chip are from e-bay. When I got this machine it had no battery (clean unsoldered space for battery), no game, or reel chip in it.
Looked like a brand new board. Here is a pic of the clear chip.

[knagl]

My thoughts:

Just to run back to something you said in your first post, you said that it doesn't go to 61_1 "after you turn the key" -- it shouldn't.  The correct procedure, as I mentioned in Reply #3 is to press and hold the small white "self test" button for about five seconds to get the machine to advance from 61 to 61_1.  If you have a 61 on the display and turn the jackpot reset key, it won't do anything. 


- Does your machine have functioning door optics, or are they bypassed telling the machine that the door is closed?  If the machine thinks that the door is closed, you can press the self test button until you're blue in the face and it won't run the clear, nor would it advance from 61 to 61_1.  As an aside, the fact that the lower part of the candle is flashing does not necessarily indicate that the machine sees the door as open, as it would likely flash like that after a power-up until the first paid game is played (regardless as to whether or not the door was opened).


- Some folks on eBay are selling homemade chips with good looking labels, but they're not always the real deal.  We've seen on some home-burned chips that you have to move the jumper on the MPU board for the machine to read the incorrectly burned chip.  It won't hurt anything to try that, so if you still can't get the CLEAR chip to advance, try turning the power off, remove the board, and move the jumper that's just below and to the left of the words "GAME PROM" over to the other position (ie. move it so that the right two pins are jumpered together instead of the left two).  Now install the board and see if there's a difference.  If not, set the jumper back to the original position ASAP so you don't forget to do it later.


- If you still can't get the machine past 61 or to run the clear, test the continuity of the white self test button to make sure that the switch is working.  With the power off, check for continuity between the two poles of the switch with a multi-meter.  It's a simple momentary switch, there should be continuity when the switch is held down.  You can also trace the wires back to the motherboard (the fixed board in the machine that the removable MPU connects to) to ensure that they're not cut or otherwise unplugged.

[Maverick Mo]

Thanks, knag
Ok, put back game chip SP1271 and following your instruction with door open  pressed and held the small white "self test" button for about five seconds to move to 61-1 and got nothing stayed on 61.
Next, checked door optics for alinement, made some small adjustments to be exact. Also tested door side emitter with a cell phone pic, which was emitting a beam.
As for testing the Optic receiver I'm not sure how to do that, but disconnecting it yielded the same results as connected (nothing) on pressing "self test" button, stayed on 61 .
On to the clear chip, tested it with the jumper switched to other pen and did not yield any different results (nothing) did not advance to count up.
Next the reset button located on my mpu box, test it for continuity and when pushed it works showing continuity.
Checked all wires and plugs for loose connections or broken wires. All looked good.
I do see a place that got hot enough to brown the plastic heat shield. (shown in pic) and some other unused plug.

Now, thinking maybe my game, reel and clear chip are all fakes. Anyone know where to get a  genuine set of chips that have been tested and work?
Next I will be pulling the MPC base PC board and seeing what caused the heat burn. Will keep you all posted, again thanks for the help.
Just found this http://toplineslotmachines.com/?attachment_id=5998 may explain the burn.

[knagl]

Next, checked door optics for alinement, made some small adjustments to be exact. Also tested door side emitter with a cell phone pic, which was emitting a beam.

Okay, that confirms you have working installed door optics, and the problem is never that the door optics don't show as open, so you've eliminated that variable, good.

I'm a little confused about one point -- in your post you referenced both a "self test" and a "reset" button.  Do you have two different buttons on your machine?

I see the one mounted on the enclosure for the MPU board (circled in the picture below) -- are you saying you also have another button somewhere else?

I do see a place that got hot enough to brown the plastic heat shield. (shown in pic) and some other unused plug.

The unused plug doesn't bother me much -- there are a lot of unused wire harnesses in S+ machines.  The burn mark, however, could be a problem.  Can you tell if the burnt color is contained just to the clear plastic shield, or if the motherboard (below the shield, mounted to the bottom of the machine) is also burnt?  If so, that could be part of the problem.

Now, thinking maybe my game, reel and clear chip are all fakes. Anyone know where to get a  genuine set of chips that have been tested and work?
Next I will be pulling the MPC base PC board and seeing what caused the heat burn. Will keep you all posted, again thanks for the help.

I think your chips are just fine -- they're displaying what they should be displaying when they're first plugged in -- it just seems like the machine isn't detecting you pressing the self test button to advance them to their next steps.  Again, the burn mark could be the reason why it's not behaving like it should.  Also, though, can you please clarify if you have both a self test button next to the power switch and also a "reset button" as you called it mounted on the MPU enclosure, or if you were just using those terms interchangeably?  There should be only one "self test" button in your machine, and then also a jackpot reset keyswitch mounted on the right side of the machine which requires the use of a key to operate.

[Maverick Mo]

Hi, knagl
You are correct, I only have one "self test button" located on the enclosure for the MPU board and a jackpot reset keyswitch mounted on the right side of the machine.
Burn mark did come from the PC board below. Looks like that clump of resistors in the back corner got really hot.
Then I found this ---------> http://toplineslotmachines.com/?attachment_id=5998
um, I think I can fix this. I have a resistor color code chart and a UL listed soldering iron. lol
I will pull the board today and have a look. Will post some more pics, I don't know about you all but this is fun for me, really.

[Jim]

before you start doing anything, go back and check the insertion of the chips, when I looked at the enlarged picture of the chips it clearly shows the top two pins not in the socket, on both chips, so I would insert them correctly and see what happens!

don't worry about the burnt resistors, the one that got hot was probably for the denom lamp.  the lamp that lights up the 25 cent decal, it should come on as soon as power is applied.  and its a very small resistance.   R-1-2-4-   180 ohms,    R-3  3.9 ohms.

Hope this helps

Jim

[Maverick Mo]

Thanks for the response Jim,
Your right, the picture sure looks like I'm missing the socket, but turns out to be an optical illusion as I did double check to make absolutely sure it was inserted correctly.

Jim, you must be very knowledgeable about this motherboard as you refer to the resistors and what they do, so I really would like your thoughts. Look at what I found under the motherboard (a burnt penny).

And this link http://toplineslotmachines.com/?attachment_id=5998 explains what my problem is exactly. knagl was on the right track with the idea that the self test switch was not working and I think something on this board that controls the self test switch got shorted out on the motherboard. So as resistors are very resilient like you stated they should be ok, so I suspect the chip on the front part of the board that I labeled 1 in yellow circle. My chip is directly soldered to the board but I have seen pictures of other boards for sale on internet having a socket for this chip.
So, has anyone ever worked on this board or know the repair procedure and what typically the problem is?

Hey, just a heads up, if the 61 code continues to come back after it disappears, it's a comm problem between the CPU and Motherboard.  I used to fix this by changing the 8 pin chip on the motherboard to a new one or simply replacing both boards at the same time.  I believe this is the trickiest problem you can ever get on an S+

Anyone know where I can get this chip in the above picture labeled 1 and circled in yellow ?

[knagl]

The chip you've circled in yellow is the EEPROM. The symptom you have does not match needing a replacement EEPROM.

The fact that you found a burnt penny under the motherboard is troubling. At this point I personally would be replacing the motherboard and/or the MPU board with known working boards, but you're certainly welcome to try repairing them. Circuit board repair is beyond the scope of my knowledge, however.

[hotlsot]

i didn't take the time to read all the posts in this topic, but a clear will not always get rid of the dreaded 61 code. determine if this is a 16 or a 10 mgz board and socket a different sp chip than the one already in the machine. proceed with the 61 ram clear process and that should fix you up.

[ersk3]

I have the same machine, and it had the same problem. It solved with holding the self test button in like 10 sec, until 61 -1 was in display. Then holding the button 10 more sec, and error was gone. Erik