WTB Ceronix XX92h chassis board

[Chris-socal]

Sorry if I confused you. Absolutely replace caps first.
However, those white lines clearly indicate that the image is turned too high.
It also indicates that the flyback and HOT are working.
I don’t think you need a new board.

[tomterlec]

Update: cap kit installed which has helped image however as was seen from my previous reply’s I believe it has retrace lines? The brightness is too high but in reality the picture is very dark without it being brighter.

I’ve reviewed the 1492 repair data log, in addition to caps being changed to solve this issue I’ve seen some other components listed (81b, 83g, 87g). I haven’t really investigated the other components but wanted some feedback first.

The attached image is actually brighter than what I see in person. There is a lot of screen burn which makes the white colors dark. I did the best I could adjusting the monitor.

Thoughts?

[Chris-socal]

The flyback is turned up too high, got to get rid of those retrace lines.
Yes, there are some other components that can cause issues, did you do a close up examination of the traces on the board and the neck board? Check to be sure there aren’t any solder points are loose in the solder, etc.
If you are not familiar with the steps to dial in a monitor or if you need a refresher, look up Mikes amateur monitor repair on YouTube, he does a great job of identifying common problems that really are not that complex and at the end of each repair he does a proper color and brightness reset.

Looks like you are on the right track.

Chris

[tomterlec]

The flyback is turned up too high, got to get rid of those retrace lines.
Yes, there are some other components that can cause issues, did you do a close up examination of the traces on the board and the neck board? Check to be sure there aren’t any solder points are loose in the solder, etc.
If you are not familiar with the steps to dial in a monitor or if you need a refresher, look up Mikes amateur monitor repair on YouTube, he does a great job of identifying common problems that really are not that complex and at the end of each repair he does a proper color and brightness reset.

Looks like you are on the right track.

Chris

I looked over the main board pretty well, reflowed connector pins, can’t hurt to have a second look. To be honest, I didn’t pay much attention to the neck board, I’ll have a look and review the monitor repair video.

[tomterlec]

I’ve taken this board as far as I believe I can, time for some additional help. The monitor looks terrible after it’s turned on but warms up to what you see pictured. Still have retrace lines and brightness needs to be at this level or no picture. Also the monitor seems to pulse brighter at times, could this be a voltage issue?

Looking for any additional feedback or possibly someone taking a look at this. Thanks in advance.

[Chris-socal]

I have to be honest, other than being really washed out the picture looks good.
When you say brightness needs to be turned up are you talking about the flyback or the brightness potentiometer?  They are different.
If I recall, to set up you turn the flyback brightness and brightness pot down almost all the way.
Then turn the flyback up just until you start to see a full but dark image.
Then turn the brightness pot up.
You could be dealing with a high b+ voltage but I don’t think this is symptoms of that.
It is also possible you are dealing with a rare occasion of a tube that needs rejuvenated. Most examples I have seen the picture is dark and colors are muted. Yours just looks like the brightness is turned up really high.
I did find a 1492 tube in storage. I saw another user offered to look at your board too. I wouldn’t be able to do that until I’m done with a Halloween charity event I help run…mid-November. PM me or the other user if you want to pursue that.

Chris

[tomterlec]

I have to be honest, other than being really washed out the picture looks good.
When you say brightness needs to be turned up are you talking about the flyback or the brightness potentiometer?  They are different.
If I recall, to set up you turn the flyback brightness and brightness pot down almost all the way.
Then turn the flyback up just until you start to see a full but dark image.
Then turn the brightness pot up.
You could be dealing with a high b+ voltage but I don’t think this is symptoms of that.
It is also possible you are dealing with a rare occasion of a tube that needs rejuvenated. Most examples I have seen the picture is dark and colors are muted. Yours just looks like the brightness is turned up really high.
I did find a 1492 tube in storage. I saw another user offered to look at your board too. I wouldn’t be able to do that until I’m done with a Halloween charity event I help run…mid-November. PM me or the other user if you want to pursue that.

Chris

Chris, I appreciate your feedback! There isn’t a brightness pot, only the fly back brightness. I turned (fly back brightness) almost all the way down and as you have suggested, moved it up until I got a picture. I agree it does look too bright, perhaps the adjustment is so fine I’m missing it.

I’ll PM you, I get to So Cal usually every 6-8 weeks.

[RILaw]

When the flyback brightness is down, until those raster lines are gone, you said it "pulses" brighter?  That sounds like a failing flyback.  Do you have access to a rejuvenator?  If so you could check what life is left in that tube.  I've worked on a lot of monitors in arcade games and slots.  When it's that dim, it's either a failing tube, failing flyback,  or tube that needs a rejuv.

[tomterlec]

When the flyback brightness is down, until those raster lines are gone, you said it "pulses" brighter?  That sounds like a failing flyback.  Do you have access to a rejuvenator?  If so you could check what life is left in that tube.  I've worked on a lot of monitors in arcade games and slots.  When it's that dim, it's either a failing tube, failing flyback,  or tube that needs a rejuv.

I tried to post a video showing the pulsing but it wasn't the right format. I wasn't able to back off the brightness enough to get rid of the raster lines, I would loose picture altogether. The tube is super burned, I don't have access to a rejuvenator.

[RILaw]

It's either the flyback or the tube.  Figures, I threw away a few during the summer.

[Chris-socal]

I tried to get ahold of flyback for a 1492 a few years ago, none available or very expensive. I missed the comment about the pulsing.

[Jim]

I have these available,  brand new, three available. perhaps the parts are interchangeable??

these are 220 units, was told by tech at Ceronix if you remove two diodes they can be used with 120 volt.

100.00  each plus shipping.

Jim

[tomterlec]

I have these available,  brand new, three available. perhaps the parts are interchangeable??

these are 220 units, was told by tech at Ceronix if you remove two diodes they can be used with 120 volt.

100.00  each plus shipping.

Jim

Jim, thanks for responding. Honestly I don't know enough about these monitors to know if your chassis are interchangeable. I did notice yours are 1493 and also VGA, I'm pretty sure 1492 (XX92) is CGA but I'm no expert. I bet that the power can be converted. I'll need some input from the group if the parts may be interchangeable.

[Chris-socal]

I think 1493 is a 14” monitor
There is a chassis on eBay for $45!
Well worth it for the flyback alone! Even if you find the problem isn’t the board at least you will have a spare.

[tomterlec]

I think 1493 is a 14” monitor
There is a chassis on eBay for $45!
Well worth it for the flyback alone! Even if you find the problem isn’t the board at least you will have a spare.

I messaged the seller a few times, he said the game it was pulled from wasn't working. I went ahead and bought it, I have to assume it has issues but hopefully parts are good.

[tomterlec]

Received my ebay 1492 chassis board which was sold for parts or repair. Looks like an older version 1492 but I was told it was pulled from an IGT PE+ a few years ago. Good news is the fly back is identical to mine (assuming it’s good) as well as most components. The only obvious thing I see wrong is the horizontal coil is broken fee of it’s mount but that doesn’t tell me anything about the rest.

Question for feedback, should I try and test the eBay board in the game and see what it does or just take the flyback and swap it out? It’s obvious the eBay board capacitors are very old, could be risky trying to power it up. At least I know mine has been capped.

[Chris-socal]

Personally, I would verify that the wires on the horizontal coil have good solder connections on the board and I would hook it up. I might take some heat for saying this but it is relatively low risk. If the coil got knocked loose be sure nothing else got knocked off. You could again be dealing with a board that needs a cap kit. Lol

[tomterlec]

Personally, I would verify that the wires on the horizontal coil have good solder connections on the board and I would hook it up. I might take some heat for saying this but it is relatively low risk. If the coil got knocked loose be sure nothing else got knocked off. You could again be dealing with a board that needs a cap kit. Lol

The eBay board was DOA, no power to CRT. It could be a number of things but I think it’s best to use for parts.