Replacement NIMH BATTERY?

[61Wally]

Here’s the results of the Voltages:
Pin#1)  1.49VDC
Pin#2)   22.21VDC
Pin#4)  12.43VDC
Pin#11) 35.75VDC

ALL of these readings were taken with Pin#7 used as ground.

[Pitts256]

There's low voltage on pin 1, should be +5vdc.

Do you get the same low voltage on pin 1 with CN4 unplugged? First double check that F3 fuse...still no +5vdc? The voltage regulator on the topside of the power supply has died. The voltage comes up with CN4 unplugged? There's probably a short somewhere in the chassis or maybe the MPU battery area?

[61Wally]

Ok here’s the Voltage readings for this Universal?
BTW how do I find the model number of this machine?

Pin#1)   1.49VDC
Pin#2)   22.21VDC
Pin#4)   12.43VDC
Pin#11)  35.75VDC

Pin#8)   5.23VAC

ALL of these were tested utilizing Pin #7 for ground.

[61Wally]

I get 6.59VDC on Pin#1+, Pin#7GND

[61Wally]

Time to troubleshoot the board issues, I hope there’s a fix for this that I can accomplish. I really appreciate the time and guidance You’re giving me, I enjoy ALL these different learning experiences.

[Pitts256]

The +5vdc needs to rock solid. So the the fact that the voltage is going from 1.49 to 6.59 tells me your power supply is tanking. I would disconnect the CN4 plug until it's fixed. Two things to replace, the large filter cap (22,000mf-16v) on the inside and the N-CHANNEL MOSFET on the topside. The MOSFET number is obsolete and I haven't found a plug & play replacement yet. The capacitor will be easy to find, check Mouser. Replacing the capacitor may fix the issue so replace it first. First check the value to make sure it's 22,000mf-16v. It's attached to the wall inside of the power supply case, both leads attach to the MOSFET. Take a screwdriver and short the two pins together to discharge any residual voltage before disconnecting the wires. Make a note of which wire connects to what terminal, it's polarized. Order a 22000 uF 16 VDC Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor - Snap In. I'll send the part number for the MOSFET if I find one. You could also post a want ad and see if there's a working RED DOT available from a NLG member too.

[61Wally]

I really want to THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR EVERYTHING. When I replaced the battery and everything worked, I sent video to my friend. It was his dad’s and they All had tears,( I heard) then it took a dump and I feel awful. I’d give him a machine but he the memories. That’s why I will do anything necessary to get this going.
After I replace the cap should I try it or wait until the mosfet gets replaced too? I have thousands of caps, and other electronic be parts. Do You happen to  b know the specs that I would need so I can look in my pile and see what’s what? Thx.

One last question, Do You know the model of this machine or where it’s hiding?

[61Wally]

Do You know if Ci can take a Very accurate 5v power supply and tap in/bypass the wiring in the machine and install it SOLO? I also have cases of every power supply made?

[Pitts256]

For a direct replacement order a 22000 uF 16 VDC Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor - Snap In.

Or you can use a radial or axle polarized 22000 uF 16 VDC Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

It's a 3 LINE MODEL 8938-0005 with an 8116 main board. The ID Label is normally riveted to the outer right side of the cabinet.