Author Topic: Bally 1071-3 Troubleshooting (Read 29798 times)

OldReno · « **Reply #40 on:** January 17, 2016, 01:47:29 PM »

Part # 37 above is why you have free handle pull. Lift that up (put something under it) far enough and your free handle will go away. You will be able to figure out why you get free handle when you lift that up, and you should be able to discern why the coil in the back allows handle pull (it lets your lever drop, releasing handle).
Read some of my troubleshooting stuff and you can get more info on handle releases.

OldReno · « **Reply #41 on:** January 17, 2016, 01:53:13 PM »

Well I see I missed all of page 2 comments, so my above comment is pretty redundant now. Yes, part 22 (or 37) or whatever keeps the handle from being pulled and also allows it to pull if it drops.
Nuff said about that.

nauseous · « **Reply #42 on:** January 17, 2016, 04:49:53 PM »

Thanks OldReno, that makes sense now. Exactly what Ovenguy was trying to tell me all along....

@Ovenguy: Whenever you have time and can post that would be great. No major rush.

DavidLee · « **Reply #43 on:** January 17, 2016, 07:40:26 PM »

Here are a couple of photos, hope they help out.

John, looks like he will need part # 12 the latch plate that's activated by the magnetic coil.

nauseous · « **Reply #44 on:** January 19, 2016, 02:46:44 AM »

Thanks again for all the help everyone.

I suspect the door is missing maybe one or two more parts (plus a coin mech).

Questions:
1. Screw holes marked in Red: Am I missing something here?
2. Screw hole marked in Orange: Coin chute as per what ovenguy has posted photos of earlier.
3. Blue Circled Connector: Something missing here...?
4. Coin mech: Is this a standard coin mech as per most other coin operated machines? I have nothing like it on hand to check with but see many available on ebay.com.au that look like they will work fine.

And the Hopper:

5. Where does this single wire plug go? Am I missing something here as well ?

The reel mech. and bell system are intact and everything else looks pretty complete...

I am yet to rebuild the hopper. Turning the motor spindle by hand the gearbox looks fine and i can see some play on the output shaft - but i suspect the payout disc maybe gummed up. I put very light pressure on the motor spindle while turning, didnt want to give it any 'elbow' till i know more. I suspect one can't check the insert coin light without the hopper inserted? (Ovenguy hinted towards this)

Jon · « **Reply #45 on:** January 19, 2016, 02:40:15 PM »

question number 1 the holes are for wire ties question number 2 yes question number 3 coin out display good luck finding one that works question number 4 you need the right coin rejector for the coins it was made to take I'm guessing that is the to OC that is written in permanent marker on that housing you know what a 200cc coin is in Australia I do not question number 5 you need to look where that wire goes Bally's would not have put a molex connector on one wireand yes you need to have the hopper installed lift up on lever 22 to see if the coin insert light comes on all parts must be installed for that light to work

nauseous · « **Reply #46 on:** January 19, 2016, 03:00:37 PM »

Yep I'm aware coin mech will need to take correct denomination.

Do all coin mechs fit? Like this one for example:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PINBALL-ARCADE-MACHINE-10c-COIN-MECH-LQQK-/321975024514?hash=item4af734fb82:g:k9QAAOSwJkJWjQrT

Or does it require something special.

Jon · « **Reply #47 on:** January 19, 2016, 03:18:50 PM »

yes that would be the correct style coin machine for the machine and wow I should sell the hundred I have if they're that expensive that is crazy

nauseous · « **Reply #48 on:** January 19, 2016, 03:48:14 PM »

yep some stuff goes for an absolute premium here in Australia, doesn't mean anyone purchases it tho.

DavidLee · « **Reply #49 on:** January 19, 2016, 07:36:32 PM »

Attached inside door photos, the 1088 is the cleanest one with less wiring. The other is a 1090 machine.
If you're into pinball machines, you might want to find someone that restores them for you parts.

DavidLee · « **Reply #50 on:** January 19, 2016, 08:15:37 PM »

Forgot to mention, I did a couple of modifications to the 1090 machine. So if you are looking closely you'll see I added 3 relays one is solid state and the other two are 48 volt contact type. I used the solid state to control the coin lock out coil due to some conflicting wiring issues I needed to bypass.
The other two relays control the electronic winner paid meter I built and added for aesthetics. Even though the old machine has a tough time counting coins correctly it's nice to have the meter instead of black tape.

nauseous · « **Reply #51 on:** January 20, 2016, 01:20:54 AM »

Awesome guys, thanks heaps. Nice mod Dave!

Sorry for all the questions but I have no other Bally to compare this guy with... A couple more...

The Orange wire leading from molex plug goes to a payout switch on the back of the hopper...? (couldn't find this one in your tutorials oldreno - i must apologise if i missed it)

And lastly:

The reason why the hopper was out of the unit when i purchased it:

How is this guy attached to the hopper?

It's been pretty beaten up, is it worth trying to save and re-use or source a replacement?

nauseous · « **Reply #52 on:** January 20, 2016, 01:25:53 AM »

And another update on the hopper for those following:

The hopper is setup for 5c coins.
Plate Mark:

5c Coins:

No idea why someone looks to have written 20c behind what was the coin mech. It's a 5c machine, confirmed.
The coin input on the door won't accept a 20c piece, it's too big to fit.

Jon · « **Reply #53 on:** January 20, 2016, 07:06:31 AM »

I have a couple of hoppers in the garage I will put a coin in one and take a picture of it to when the Sun comes up another couple hours
this is a picture of what the plug should look like

Jon · « **Reply #54 on:** January 20, 2016, 07:29:16 AM »

this is how the coin should look in the hopper I think you're Harper has been modified

DavidLee · « **Reply #55 on:** January 20, 2016, 08:19:30 AM »

Regarding the Cinch-Jones plug better known as the beau plug. It sould look like the one in the attached photo. Looks like someone bent the tabs back on the one in your machine. Try fixing and straighten the prongs first. I wouldn't unsolder it only as a last resort. Installing is easy, remove the four screws on the sides. The tabs will be between the frame and the outer clamps. The plug should have free movement as to align its self with the socket.

Jon · « **Reply #56 on:** January 20, 2016, 08:34:31 AM »

David its not that bad to replace them and if you look at his picture the plug is actually broken it only takes about 20 minutes to solder a new one in

Jon · « **Reply #57 on:** January 20, 2016, 08:37:08 AM »

and I'm guessing the spare orange wire goes to the broken plug

DavidLee · « **Reply #58 on:** January 20, 2016, 09:28:40 AM »

You are right John. Doesn't take long to replace a plug or socket. If his is broke, most likely it will need replacing. Thanks again for the plug and socket I got from you. Made a real nice 6 foot extension cable.
I made it for the 1090, but it also worked on the 809 when I was inspecting the odds unit. That is the only way you can see the odds unit working outside of the cabinet.

Jon · « **Reply #59 on:** January 20, 2016, 10:04:17 AM »

that looks really nice Dave mine are all only three feet long if I want to put it on the bench I have to hook to up together maybe if I can find some 30 connector wire like that I will make some six footers
I made all of mine out of old slot machine wires

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Author Topic: Bally 1071-3 Troubleshooting (Read 29798 times)