Author Topic: Igt S+ Haywire doa (Read 6179 times)

Pwnu2noob · « **on:** July 29, 2014, 03:38:15 AM »

Hey everyone!

The new site looks great!

Anyway, I'm getting ready to dig back into this Haywire machine I picked up a while back. I'll get some pics posted up and some more detailed info this week but, just wanted to get back into the swing of things and see if anyone is ready to do some troubleshooting with me?

The current state of the machine: dead.

From what i can remember, I've checked the power supply, the 6-pin connection, and the door optics is whereI left off. The fluorescents are the only thing that turn on when powered up. No reel spin, no buttons, nothing.

I'm going to dig the machine out and start in on it tonight so I'll post up some more later.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #1 on:** July 29, 2014, 05:46:13 PM »

We look forward to helping you. S+ is pretty easy. You better re-check that 6 pin power cable. It is usually the green wire second from the right. But don't rule out the mother board it plugs into.

Badbaud · « **Reply #2 on:** July 29, 2014, 05:48:52 PM »

Bring it on.

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #3 on:** July 30, 2014, 05:30:55 PM »

Awesome! Thanks guys! Well i went out and took a look at cab again and this thing is a wreck.

But i knew that when i picked it up so that's ok. (I say that now)

I decided to pull a few things out and this cab has some water damage along the bottom. Looking at the game board i noticed right away C34 is broken off, the battery for the board is gone, and one of the ic's has a broken leg.

The power transformer is in rough shape as well. I'm going to bench test it tomorrow to see what condition it's in.

The motherboard looks surprisingly good. No broken parts, no bad traces/burns. The top candle is busted but, i did a check of all the lights and everything is working ok so i know the lamp sockets and wiring to them is still good.
Coin hopper is in bad shape. May need to be replaced period.

The slide out "carriage" that holds the game board, MB, power supply, hopper, etc...(can't think of what it's called sorry) was also in rough shape. So today I took it into work and snuck into the maintenance shop on lunch and sand blasted it with a super fine media. Brought it home and put a coat of primer on it and now it's looking great.

Went ahead and stripped the cab so i can take it out to a friends shop (automotive shop) and get the cab cleaned up.

Well that's as far as I got to date. I'll post up some pictures in a few after I eat.

Anyone have a wiring schematic for these things I could have?

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #4 on:** July 30, 2014, 07:58:35 PM »

Started disassembly & checking lights

Broken C34 and missing leg on memory ic

Cab stripped down

Carriage after sand blasting and primer (looked as bad as bottom of machine!)

CVslots · « **Reply #5 on:** July 30, 2014, 08:14:11 PM »

Eeek! I may have got it going before I stripped it, but that just me! Hope you took some pics of the interior cabinet first. Seems easy enough when your yanking wires...lets hope it goes as smooth on the rebuild!

Badbaud · « **Reply #6 on:** July 30, 2014, 09:44:51 PM »

I think your first step should be to order another MPU board and back plane board.

The capacitor that blew up above the RAM chip is a 10 uF 25V tantalum capacitor and it was connected in parallel with the battery.

It looks like the board encountered a bunch of unwanted moisture because the IC leads I see are all rusted which means the sockets are probably rusted.

This is going to involve some major board work because many of the traces are probably rotted.

You could send the boards to Larry for repair (702-363-9998) where I would check them for viability and probably send you replacements.

OR place a WTB on NLG and get boards from a NLG seller.

Meanwhile every connector inside the machine should be checked for rust and corrosion and be cleaned or replaces.

If a tin lead exposed it's under layer of copper the lead must be replaced as the copper will oxidize and cause problems.

You may want to trash this machine and buy one that has not sat in water for who knows how long.

CVslots · « **Reply #7 on:** July 30, 2014, 10:15:45 PM »

Or....just put it back together and see what you get. typically, there are 2 components known to fail, MPU and motherboard. As for the rest, the machines are tanks. Put it back together right, and chances are, $60-70 bucks, you have a working machine. Put it back together wrong, all bets are off, lol!

You're this far in, I wouldn't junk it. But, of course, that is only my opinion,,,,

Badbaud · « **Reply #8 on:** July 31, 2014, 12:53:07 AM »

The Vbb pin was blown off of the RAM chip, you would need to replace the RAM and it's socket plus add the 10 uF cap before powering up if you decide to use the MPU board that came with the machine.

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #9 on:** July 31, 2014, 04:09:11 AM »

Thanks for the reply everyone!

Last night I ordered the RAM chip and some repclacement caps to start off with. I figured i''ll replace those parts and go from there. Also, I rang out some of the suspect traces on the board. Weren't as many as younwould expect but, the ones that looked funny all still showed continuity. But won't know for sure until I fire it up. Worse case I buy a couple new boards I guess.

The connectors have some oxidation build up but, I've started to clean them up as well.

Well need to get ready for work. Planning on some more repair work tonight and I'll get some more pics posted up with progress.

Oh before I forget, does anyone recommend a website for purchasing parts?

Thanks again for thenhelp everyone!

Badbaud · « **Reply #10 on:** July 31, 2014, 07:59:53 AM »

Have you removed the backplane board and checked it for rust?

See attached for a backplane layout.

CVslots · « **Reply #11 on:** July 31, 2014, 10:14:18 AM »

Most of the vendors on the Home Page (middle of page banner ads) will be able to help you with parts.

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #12 on:** July 31, 2014, 10:35:40 AM »

Yes, I've looked at the backplane board and it looks surprisingly good. I haven't had a chance to put it under the magnifying glass yet but, it's on my radar.

I'll take a look at the vendors listed on the site.

Thanks guys!!!

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #13 on:** August 08, 2014, 08:00:38 PM »

Well crap...bench tested the transformer and it is having problems. Results:

Primary Side
pin 1 115vac com ok
[size=78%]pin 2 115vac hot ok[/size]
pin 3 n.c.

Secondary Side
Pin 4 & 5 - only reading 14.7vac

Pin 6&7 - 24.2vac

Pin 8&9 - nothing

Ugh...anyone have one of these laying around?

I can post pics if needed.

cowboygames · « **Reply #14 on:** August 09, 2014, 07:12:44 AM »

You can save a lot of trouble by just replacing the board and tray. Probably not very expensive either. Just a thought...

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #15 on:** August 09, 2014, 10:52:15 AM »

Yeah, I think that's the best option. Looking into replacement parts now.

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #16 on:** August 10, 2014, 02:13:00 PM »

Well some progress made on the cabinet. Media blasting, sanding, and some primer. Going to do the sides in the black laminate this week.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #17 on:** August 10, 2014, 04:21:11 PM »

Are you sending door, tray and trim parts out to be chromed?

Pwnu2noob · « **Reply #18 on:** August 10, 2014, 04:48:10 PM »

Not sure yet. They are in pretty hood shape but, I also enjoy customizing my stuff so I'm also considering doing a high gloss black on those parts. Again, not sure. Need to check around here and see who does chroming. Also considered black chrome. Guess we'll see

Badbaud · « **Reply #19 on:** August 10, 2014, 04:51:08 PM »

Most auto repair shops know of a good chrome-er.

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: Igt S+ Haywire doa (Read 6179 times)