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1
Bally Electromechanical / Re: bally 1090-106
« Last post by mojorisin on Today at 07:46:41 AM »
Additionally.. I see no movement from the odds unit (which i believe is the multiplier unit?)
2
Bally Electromechanical / Re: bally 1090-106
« Last post by mojorisin on Today at 07:36:42 AM »
I believe there are 3 coils mounted on the drop down light board or the back of the cabinet.
Hopefully the labels are still attached.
If I remember correctly, one of the coils will impulse for every coin.
Causing the odds unit to advance.
These coils/switches can be manually operated for testing.

Also, check the actual step up unit that might be labeled odds unit.
Look for burnt coils, broken or detached wires, contacts out of adjustment, and missing springs.
This unit can also be manually operated. Check for smooth operation and a swift return.

Thanks for the reply.

I have this feeling that someone has been in here before me. There is indeed 3 coils that are labled but there is also a additional one with a fairly new looking coil like someone added it on later.

The labels are a follows

1. step up re.
2. coin reset re.
3. level re.

The 4th is unlabeled. but has a #2 written on the bracket.

If I drop a coin.. number 2 (coin reset) triggers. Add another then number 1 triggers.  Any coins after this shows no response.
3
Bally Reel Games / Re: Bally Eserie 1113
« Last post by filounet on Today at 07:36:23 AM »
Hi,
I changed the power board with another one that was functional as well as the hooper board and the machine works again.
She performs well on all 8 tests and pays 10 tokens on test 4

On the other hand, when there is a win, it never pays but it does not allow you to replay a new game either, it plays at startup then freezes, you then have to press reset then test and it allows you to play again. put chips to play a single game
Do you have an idea ?
Have a nice day
4
IGT S2000 and Vision Games / Re: S2000 Power Supply Issue
« Last post by Stayouttadabunker on Today at 07:35:27 AM »
Stop with the "greatest" stuff....my head won't fit thru the doorway!  :rotfl:

It sounds like you have either a loose power supply unit up behind the reels on the back wall of the cabinet, or it's starting to fail.
Really, you should get yourself a digital multimeter, especially if you want to try to do your own machine repairs.
We can easily show you how to use it to test for continuity and different AC/DC voltages.

The PSU may have come loose during the move with the machine to your home.
But first, you need to turn OFF the power to the machine, remove the three or five reels from the reel shelf, and place aside as you've pulled them out to be put back in later.

With two hands, push towards each other the PSU, and the metal bracket that holds all the wires that go into it on the right-hand side of the PSU.
There is a thumbscrew on the left-hand side of the PSU....but that tends to get stripped and doesn't work very well.
See anyway, if you can turn it it - to tighten the connection at all.
But pushing the metal bracket into the PSU together, usually works just as well.


Below, I'm posting a photo I made of the IGT S2000 Backplane board.
Focusing on the white 10-pin Molex header where the power enters the backplane, there are three pin points (Black, Red and Orange wires) that need to be checked for voltages to see if your power supply unit (PSU) is working correctly.

Open the door, and turn ON the power switch.
At each of the 3 pins, you push the red probe of your multimeter into the back of the white Molex connector housing to touch the pin inside.
With your black probe - simply just touch it to any metal on the floor of the cabinet.
Report back the voltages you are getting from each of those three pins with the multimeter set to VDC.
Set your multimeter dial to like 200VDC....when you note each voltage reading, do the same for each of the three pins but set the multimeter to like around 200 VAC voltage.
NLG Members here, will be able to tell from your voltage reports, if your PSU is any good or not.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

5
Looking for a round top Titanic pay table glass for IGT S-2K.
6
Bally Electromechanical / Re: Bally Slot Machine
« Last post by mboessen on Today at 07:30:32 AM »
Hi, Badbaud!

You already come recommended by a previous post!  Thanks for your reply. 

Before I get into service manuals and troubleshooting, I would like to have some idea where this is going financially.  It looks like I need this "coin hopper" sub chassis, and probably a stand before I can even start.  Can you give me at least a WHAG what the cost will be and what is the likelihood that I will be able to obtain these missing components?  I know nothing about these machines, and I'll need to give Mark some idea before I start on it.  I'd rather not get immersed in the project only to have my customer say he doesn't want to spend what it will take to get it going. 

I won't lie, the machine looks pretty intimidating, and has been stored in a damp basement for years.  I really like a good challenge, but I'm trying, in my old age, to learn to look before I leap.

Best

Mike
7
Universal Reel/Video Games / Re: universal slot machine jam
« Last post by bidault on Today at 07:26:36 AM »
Sorry for the delay I was travelling abroad. I checked the voltage  at the power supply plug CN-4 it's OK 34V. I checked the white plug on the right side of the coin comparator following the wires from the red keyplug, no voltage betwin the blue and violet wires (picture). There is a lever breaking the photo eye on the the key lock system of the door (picture)
8
 :thank_you:   :thank_you:  :thank_you:

Thanks Sunrise Side for spending time with me trying to get the bill acceptor working. Between us both we verified that the wiring is correct as per the electrical drawing.

I don't know where I can go from here.
9
IGT AVP (Including G20,G23) / Re: First impressions owning a G20
« Last post by RobinAK on Today at 06:24:00 AM »
Ahh, yes, I see the difference in the Crystal series. Basically the Crystal Dual looks like the G23 but runs Fam20 games? Did they do away with most of the physical buttons? So the screens are 27" and the topper can be a 3rd monitor?

Crystal dual 23 is 23" screens. Dual 27 is 27". I have a dual 23. Its big enough for me. The 27 looks sweet but it also costs more. Yes they run Fam20 games. The button deck is a touch screen. Ive seen them with either one large spin button on the right side of the screen or two (one on each side). Mine has just one button. Yes the topper is a monitor. So it changes with what game is loaded. Most games it will have video topper action. Some games its just displays a static image on the topper. The topper is 24". It was made for a 27 or curve. But it mounts right up to the 23". They didn't make a video topper for the 23". The cabinet itself has led lighting along the sides that changes colors with game play. The topper also has edge lighting around it.

As far as costs goes. Yea its not cheap to ship stuff up here but it is what it is. Far cheaper to have a machine in my game room than flying to Vegas and feeding the machines in the casinos lol.
10
Universal Reel/Video Games / Re: Replacement NIMH BATTERY?
« Last post by Badbaud on Yesterday at 11:17:03 PM »
suspect the power supply
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