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1
Bally Reel Games / Re: s5500 wont clear
« Last post by Vasmot on Today at 05:39:07 PM »
screens
2
Bally Reel Games / Re: s5500 wont clear
« Last post by Vasmot on Today at 05:14:09 PM »
and i have done that way and every other way i have found online and still no luck
3
Bally Reel Games / Re: s5500 wont clear
« Last post by Vasmot on Today at 05:13:12 PM »
2
4
Bally Reel Games / Re: s5500 wont clear
« Last post by Vasmot on Today at 05:11:09 PM »
1
5
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: IGT Double diamond S Plus, RESTORATION
« Last post by David Walz on Today at 04:57:42 PM »
Quote from: Stayouttadabunker on Today at 03:29:10 PM
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

These are the specifications I need correct?

Is this what I am looking for?

Specifications:

100% Brand New

Diameter : 3MM

wavelength:850nm

Forward Voltage: 1.2-1.3V

6
Bally Reel Games / Re: s5500 wont clear
« Last post by Badbaud on Today at 04:57:11 PM »
Unless you have a S6000 board no DIP switches need to be changed to do a clear on a S5500.
See the attached PDF of a sheet I send along with a repaired S5500 to my customers.
7
NLG Classified ads and White Sheet - PLEASE READ DESCRIPTION BEFORE POSTING! / Re: WMS bb2/bb3 Willy Wonka Slot Machine
« Last post by Mid-Town Barre on Today at 04:47:08 PM »
Out of curiosity...where are you located? Just want a rough idea so I could get an idea of shipping costs.
8
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: IGT Double diamond S Plus, RESTORATION
« Last post by David Walz on Today at 04:29:13 PM »
Quote from: Stayouttadabunker on Today at 03:29:10 PM
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

I have flip cards, I made them larger, easier to read.
9
IGT S and S-plus Reel Games / Re: IGT Double diamond S Plus, RESTORATION
« Last post by David Walz on Today at 04:26:07 PM »
Quote from: Stayouttadabunker on Today at 03:29:10 PM
I watched your video and cringed when I saw you pull down on the cabinet receiver optic Molex connector and let it flop around.
The way you handled the wiring for that optic just about guarantees you've broken the wiring connection as it enters the body of the optic can.
If you look very closely, those two copper anode and cathodes that go into the optic body are very fragile and aren't meant to be moved around too much.
In fact, IGT zip ties the 2-wired harness for those particular wires to the cabinet, so they DON'T move.

Misaligned or partially broken optic wiring is most likely the cause for your optics working sporadically.
Try the door optics input test [13_0]
Here's a link to the Diagnostic Flip cards...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

Click on photo of old style metal TO-46 cans below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Here's a link to cheap plastic diodes that are somewhat more durable than fragile 30 year old optics... I make my own all the time...easy peasy...lol...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222921969963?

Well, that sucks, I had no idea how fragile those were, WOW! I understand fully why they would snap, I have worked on 1950 radios and sometimes the wiring, plastic, just crumbles. Lesson learned for me.  :fryingpan:

What demented mind at IGT would think of such a crazy idea.  :rotfl:
10
NLG Classified ads and White Sheet - PLEASE READ DESCRIPTION BEFORE POSTING! / Re: Looking for wms s32 or s23 cabinet parts
« Last post by 474lsa on Today at 03:53:55 PM »
Bump
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