Author Topic: Bally s5500 reset issue/Reels jitter (Read 8831 times)

chipguy · « **on:** August 05, 2014, 01:19:22 PM »

Hello,
I am new to this site, and so far I have read a lot of useful information. I just bought a Bally Diamond play blazing 7's slant top from CR. Now all is working great, however every since I tried to get the bill acceptor to work, the reset does this. (see videos

<a href="http://youtu.be/_b6ct1bc6OU" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://youtu.be/_b6ct1bc6OU</a>

<a href="http://youtu.be/VzLlsyDxWT4" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://youtu.be/VzLlsyDxWT4</a>

) So when ever I open the top door, and go to shut it, the bill acceptor will cycle and not allow the reels to do a complete turn to reset. Now keep in mind after unplugging the bill acceptor and plugging it back in a few times, eventually I get it to work. My question is can I just unplug the bill acceptor harness from the backpanel so the MPU is not interrupted from the bill acceptor? Right now I have the bottom door rigged so I can get my tokens out and continue to play. All is working great, just if and when I hit the jackpot I will need to open the top, and do a reset with the key. Which will make it do what the video shows. So in the 2 videos you will see the reels jitter, and the display goes in and out.
I have done a SafeRam clear on the board, and still the same issue. My machine uses the jumper for a clear, not the clear chips. The mains have a 94 on them if that helps
Any help would be great
Thank you

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #1 on:** August 05, 2014, 07:08:57 PM »

I think your power supply is failing. When you disconnect the bill acceptor it lessens the amp draw and functions slightly better.

chipguy · « **Reply #2 on:** August 06, 2014, 12:22:13 PM »

Sunrise thank you. I will try swapping that out. Do you think there could be a short

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #3 on:** August 06, 2014, 01:12:41 PM »

I'm not sure about a short.

But I just changed a PS on my S5500 on Sunday that was acting similar to what your experiencing.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #4 on:** August 06, 2014, 01:14:39 PM »

If you have another supply , swap it out . It only takes couple minutes and you will know instantly if the PS was the issue.

chipguy · « **Reply #5 on:** August 06, 2014, 03:16:41 PM »

Sunrise,
Let me ask you this. If the PS is not the issue, could it be the mains? And if so can I get mains for this? I sure they would need to be flashed to the game I have

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #6 on:** August 06, 2014, 05:18:59 PM »

Maybe someone else can chime in here that has reviewed the video of your issue and pinpoint the problem.

chipguy · « **Reply #7 on:** August 09, 2014, 08:26:04 AM »

Sunrise,
I have a PS ordered, and it will be here in a week. So for now I am dead in the water. I will update you on the outcome when I have swapped. I think for grins I will get new mains as well (U12, U15, U3, U4) This all started when we had a power outage one night. The good thing is I took everything out of the cabinet, and checked all wire harnesses. I was able to clean everything. I really hope it is the PS. I just hope it is not the MPU that needs to be preplaced. I do appreciate all the input you gave me. One more thing I love this site, I have learned so much on here.

CVslots · « **Reply #8 on:** August 09, 2014, 10:32:23 AM »

From reading on your issue, I do not think the mains are the issue. Software does not control or influence how the hardware of the machine operates, it merely runs the game and machine options. If it were a software issues, the machine would power up and BV would operate normally, but the game play would be disabled or screwy at best and you would have an error code.

Luckily, Sunrise had the same issue and nailed it!

chipguy · « **Reply #9 on:** August 09, 2014, 05:57:08 PM »

CVslots,
Thank you for your input as well. I guess the hardest part of this hobby so far is needing to be patient for the PS. I have been bugging my wife for a machine for along time now, and couldn't pass on this deal. She said I couldn't get one unless it was a blazing 7's

Kids like spending hours in front of a Xbox, and I like to spend hours in front of my Blazing 7's
Thank you again and I will post my update as soon as I install the power supply.

Badbaud · « **Reply #10 on:** August 10, 2014, 05:30:14 PM »

Run the safe ram clear again.

Then after turning power off and removing the clear jumper and turning power back on DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR until the reels finish their initialization dance.

Wait for a 50 code (door open) before closing the door.

A premature door closure after a clear will cause the reels to go wacky.

chipguy · « **Reply #11 on:** August 10, 2014, 11:28:55 PM »

Bad baud and all
I want to add a video along with what I put on here. This is also what it is doing. Bad baud I did try leaving the door open and then shut it. This is what I get all the time. Maybe someone can read the candle light errors. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MFGMJamwAnM#
Thank you

Badbaud · « **Reply #12 on:** August 11, 2014, 12:11:23 AM »

Don't shut the door until you see a 50 code on the front door display.

If you didn't shut the door and never saw a 50 code then the board may not be completely clear.

Do you get a CH C and a CL C when you clear the board?

Also 99% of the time the front toggle switch should be in the up position.

chipguy · « **Reply #13 on:** August 11, 2014, 12:24:03 AM »

So when I do the clear (jumper clear) I do get the CH and then the CL. No problems there. Then I remove the board taking the jumper off and putting it on the one pin. With the top door open (slant top) I wait till it displays the code 50 for door open, just only it blinks like that and won't go solid. I still shut the door and still blinks. I read in my manual the candle light blinks an error. Now what I count is one a sec. Which is a check sum error I believe. I really hope it is a power supply that is causing this to happen. That would be nice and easy to fix. Let me ask you this. Could a low MPU battery also cause this?

Badbaud · « **Reply #14 on:** August 11, 2014, 08:13:03 AM »

I have cleared this problem in the past by removing the RAM's and swapping them with each other.

Top RAM in bottom socket, bottom RAM in top socket.

Then clear the board again.

chipguy · « **Reply #15 on:** August 14, 2014, 04:13:10 PM »

Well folks I have replaced the power supply and issue still remains (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MFGMJamwAnM#) Bad baud I tried your suggestion and still no success. I have a new battery coming, and new mains as well. I will try that next. If those 2 fixes don't work, then I will be sending my MPU out to get checked. One thing I have not done is take all the wire harnesses out and physically inspect them for frays and cuts. If anyone looking at this video and sparks an idea please let me know.

Badbaud · « **Reply #16 on:** August 14, 2014, 06:10:22 PM »

Unplug the bill validator head and see if the reels still jitter during a play.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #17 on:** August 14, 2014, 08:36:28 PM »

Your first post shows it did work properly until you tried to get the DBA to function? What did you change when you were working on the DBA? Did you install a DBA or was it already in the machine ? Is the DBA connected to the proper connections? Just trying to backup and see where the issue started.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #18 on:** August 22, 2014, 08:39:41 PM »

Any progress? Curious to know what the problem was. Thanks!

chipguy · « **Reply #19 on:** August 23, 2014, 10:01:35 AM »

Sunrise
I sent the MPU away to get checked and I'm waiting to get word on it. As soon as I get word on if the MPU is good or bad then I'll go from there. However I did find this loose wire which could very well be causing the issue. See picture below

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Author Topic: Bally s5500 reset issue/Reels jitter (Read 8831 times)