Igame Cops and Donuts with W of F software

[vwlogan]

My good friend grabbed an Igame locally from a scrapper that knew nothing about it. I'm helping him get it running because I already have 4 s2000s and an S+. He is completely new to slots.  I know nothing of I-game and GameKing stuff myself.

First, cabinet glass is for Cops and Donuts. This is great because we are giving it to an officer when complete.  However, looks like it's running a Wheel of Fortune game instead. I believe this is a 3902 MPU. How and where can we go for Cops and Donuts chip set? And is the W of F stuff worth selling or trading.

Next question that has been asked soooo many times: clear chips.  I have a clear 17 from my S2000 setup that sounds like it will work for some functions.  Should I grab a 22 or 40 for the game swap and setup. We are considering a TITO board as well.  I assume the key17 can't do all the setup needed for a Tito?

Cabinet is still running a CRT and I think we are going to keep it that way.  But I've never seen one of this size with this bezel.  Also, the cabinet main door and player buttons are slightly curved instead of flat across. Is this unusual?  Lastly, is has a full coin handling system (comparator, slot, hopper, etc).  I have also never seen this on a video slot. Is this weird?

I haven't started anything yet because the battery is dead and I want to buy and solder on a battery holder before I do anything else.

I will update as things happen.
Logan

[Tilt]

 

Post a picture of the machine and it will be easier to let you know what type it is.  Same with the MPU board.  Pics have to be less than 1MB to post, so resize them as necessary to get under that limit. 

WOF is an early Igame that is all EPROM based.  It's really pretty boring in my opinion.  It's not a goldmine like the S2000 or AVP WOF spinning reel slot are that's for sure. 

Most likely Key 17 is what you need for Cops and Donuts in looking at my software sheet for it.  Best bet is to get one from whoever you get the game software from. 

[vwlogan]

Let's see if I can get these images sized right. I had them ready to go with the first post but... As you warned... Too big

[Stayouttadabunker]

I loved those curved button decks better than the plain-Jane straight, flat ones.

The i-Game version of WOF isn't the one that everybody likes but it's worth somewhere about $125-$150 bucks for a complete software/ glass kit?
If you only have the chips, well...maybe $35-60 bucks?
Depends on your geographical area.

The TITO board you get should have specific instructions.
There are different TITO boards out on the market.
Make sure you ask the seller for instructions to set it up for your machine...in your case, an i-Game.

CRT is nice an if the picture colors are still bright and popping, it's worth keeping.
There are several Topics on the i-Game Forums on how to convert them to LCD's should you decide to later on.

When these i-Games came out, the denomination was much lower...still a penny or nickel game played with quarters or dollar tokens.
A few years later, it made sense to to go with bill acceptors ONLY, as the minimum bets were much higher because of increased lines added to the pay-tables.
It would take too many coins to cover all the lines on a game.

See that piggyback board with the single WOF sound (SND) chip?
Pull/wiggle the whole piggyback board straight up and off.
If there's a green varta battery under there, you might want to snip one of the legs off, and rock back-n-forth the battery, until the legs snap off...you do NOT need trouble down the line.
If those green batteries leak acid, that MPU will be forever ruined.

Good luck with the project!

 

[Tilt]

It's a 19" Panda cabinet.  From you description with the curved front panel I figured it was, but most that I've seen have had LCD displays installed. 

That's a 3902 board.  It doesn't have a Varta battery that bunker was referring to, that was on the 3903 boards.  You will need to get a MML2 sound board for it to run cops and doughnuts.  It's similar to the one you have on it, but has a simm socket instead of the 4 DIP EPROM sockets. 

Sixcardmark may be able to help you with the software you're looking for.  You can't sent him a PM until you have 5 posts, but he'll probably see this and let you know.

[sixcardmark]

Yes I think I have a cops and donuts set here somewhere.  I also have a MML2 board.

[vwlogan]

Yes I think I have a cops and donuts set here somewhere.  I also have a MML2 board.

If you do, I'm definitely interested. Y'all are so responsive. I love this place.

[Tilt]

While you're working on the software have checked the rest of the machine out.  I see you have a Call Attendant message on the CRT.  Open the main door and it should tell you what the problem is.  I'm betting it's probably a RAM Error message, if so turn the jackpot reset key on the side a couple of times and follow the on-screen directions.  You have a soldered on battery still on your MPU that may need to be replaced.  You'll know if it comes up and tells you "Main Battery Low".

[vwlogan]

Just wanted to update that I soldered a battery holder onto the MPU and got it running. CRT graphics and touch controls are working great.  Verified that the coin handling is all in Nickel denominations.  I am having trouble with the coin comparitor.  It is not registering credits to the machine.  However is is depositing the coins in the hopper and not back to the coin tray.  Seems odd that it would fail to credit the machine but not reject the coin.  Possibly a software setting?  I may cross post this into the coin comparitor forum.

I think we got a steal at $100 for this machine.

I can't wait to get the Cops and Donuts software into this.

Logan

[Tilt]

Yeah, you'd better wear asbestos gloves when you work on that one   

Check and see if the coin comparitor is enabled in the peripheral devices menu.  If it isn't the comparitor should kick it back to the coin tray, but someone may have tied the rake back so that anything will fall through.