With respect to your test optics.

The speculation was that the mounting/wiring of the production optics was suspect causing intermittent results due to the handle movement as opposed to the base functionality of the optics.
Ie when you pulled the handle was it perhaps pulling the wire on the optics ever so little to cause the optic disconnect, or is there a short causing the same thing - exposed bit on the wire, a odd crimp.

I have been on the forum from the start and this is a very unique problem we have not seen come up previously.

I know that you have a lot of  experience, I have been on the old site looking for a solution.

Just my luck, I have a new problem that is a mystery. 

I am going to figure this out, the pull handle coil has a distinct "click" when unlocking and unlocking, so that's a important view that the machine is operating backwards with the coil.

Just a thought, the coil wires that plug in on each post doesn't make a difference, correct.

Quote from: David Walz on Yesterday at 03:16:18 PM

Quote from: sixcardmark on Yesterday at 02:42:24 PM

Adjust the optics and it may play right.

Are you drinking a beer?
The optics have to disengage for the pull handle to lock. 

Sixcard is likely correct here. Thank you for posting the video, it's very helpful.

It's not "free playing" as you're calling it, but it's detecting the door as opening, then closing, and re-spinning the reels back to their last position. If you look closely on those so-called free spins that happen with no music, the machine just re-spins the reels back to the same outcome of the previous paid spin.

Your door optics are likely loose or not aligned very well, and the physical movement of the handle is just enough on occasion to cause the machine to momentarily think that the door was opened, and then immediately closed.

On newer GAME (SP) chips, those re-spins would stop on reverse order -- right to left -- to make it even more clear that it's just the machine resetting itself to the last outcome, but regardless, that's what's happening here.

Went through the machine with the same results.

bump

DOT FAIL is pointing to the upper power supply being bad.  Did this just start or has it been going on for a while? 

I don't know how to use a multi-meter.  The general way to proceed is to find a replacement power supply, or an aftermarket one that may require some tinkering to line up all the connections.  I've only replaced it with an exact one so I have no experience with the aftermarket route.  The upper and lower supplies are different, so don't use the wrong one.  Using the lower one in place of the upper would overload circuit boards and/or blow out your Dotmation screen.  Both are disastrous.

It would be hard to find an exact replacement today.  Aftermarkets should be available, just make sure the voltage/amps outputs are the same.

At the beginning of the Williams thread here are tutorials to build your own power supplies.  Those are worth checking out. 

Your game will be down until you can get the upper power working again.

Thank you for the responses. I found the info I was looking for