Author Topic: 1090 pics needed! (Read 7865 times)

justjoe · « **on:** November 13, 2015, 11:55:59 PM »

Ive spent the last few hours looking through the old forum and finally found this new one! I normally work on pins, first slot came today! So this one i got had no power cord. Replaced it and realized that some things seem wrong. There is a terminal in the back to the right of the fuses that has wires leading nowhere.. was hoping someone had pics. The only diagrams ive found are for the solid state 1090s. This is a nickel machine btw. Ill try to post pics. I checked power at the top by the chimes. The lights are all blowing 60v!

justjoe · « **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2015, 08:53:16 AM »

So i checked votage at the transformer.. 60 comin out of the blue if i use the whit as neutral.. heres better pics

justjoe · « **Reply #2 on:** November 14, 2015, 08:57:27 AM »

And just guessing. The bank on the right side, for the front door open switch..? Its bypassed cause it run with it open.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2015, 11:27:41 AM »

Quote from: justjoe on November 13, 2015, 11:55:59 PM

..... I checked power at the top by the chimes. The lights are all blowing 60v!

Quote from: justjoe on November 14, 2015, 08:57:27 AM

...The bank on the right side, for the front door open switch..? Its bypassed cause it run with it open.

It's kinda hard for me to follow some of what you are saying. If you have fluorescent lamps in the machine they should be connected to 115 vac. If they have only 60 vac then maybe someone has incorrectly changed some wiring or cobbled something. A lot of slot machines are made so they can be used in countries with 220 vac power, so they have strapping options on the main transformer. Someone may have changed this strapping, just a guess. Did the machine come from a Canadian source or other place that uses 220 vac power?

Also, your meter needs to be on ac ground or neutral, any chance you have it connected to some place that isn't a good reference? To measure the fluorescent voltage you can connect the meter to both wires going to the lamp to make sure you are seeing the actual lamp voltage applied. Metal chassis parts may not be electrically connected right on an older machine that has been worked on many times.

Other lamps like the pushbutton bulbs will use a much lower voltage, like 12v or less. That voltage comes from the power supply inside the machine.

justjoe · « **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2015, 12:40:10 PM »

I have no information on where this one came from or any paperwork. I did check the lights on ac from both lines, not from ground. As in this pic. I also checked on the transformer. Blue and white where used as a checkpoint. 60v

OldReno · « **Reply #5 on:** November 14, 2015, 02:11:00 PM »

Dear JustJoe,
Sounds like a project. Generally, the line voltage coming in has two leads going to the transformer/fuses, and the 3rd leg, the green ground wire from your line cord should go to ground. Ground is tied to case only, and it is not used anywhere else on the machine. If you have any lines touching to case, then they are grounded, and most often (but not always) that will blow fuses. Some casinos put an intentional half ground in (generally wiring one side of 50 to case) but that is something that should be avoided.
Anyway, the two wires from the wall white and black eventually end up at the primary of your transformer (through fuse usually)
The other side of your transformer (the top or front) has the two working voltages which are 6V (blue) for the incandescent lights (top lights, insert coin, etc -- everything except the fluorescents), and the other wire (orange) is 50V for the coils and solenoids. The Yellow wire is the common between the 6 and 50 volt circuits. You could call it the return wire if you wish. You should be able to measure 6v when you read AC between the blue and yellow, and then read 50v between the orange and yellow.
If you measure between the blue and orange, you should read 50v plus 6V which is 56v or so.
If you start blowing fuses, remove units until the fuses stop blowing and then there is probably your problem.
You really should download the bally em manual available on this site -- see stickys, as it can help you perhaps with the wiring.
Most generally all Ballys are wired pretty much the same way, so if you are unsure of the wire color, etc., then learn to trace out the unknown wire -- it has to go somewhere.
Also, Bally tried to not duplicate wiring colors so that it's easier to trace things out.
Good luck, keep asking questions and download that manual, it is a great tool.
Cool.

PS, your first picture shows a relay with an orange wire from the coil screwed into case ground. You really should remove that wire from case, and tape it off until we figure out what the heck.... It is one of those half shorts I spoke of, and there is no way that you should ever pick up 50V from case. wrong wrong wrong. Machine should work without that relay, it is some sort of safety or anti cheat I think.

justjoe · « **Reply #6 on:** November 14, 2015, 05:01:40 PM »

Thank you for the info!!! Ivd been fixin pins for about 15 years. Love electronics. Em's - so so. But i love them. I will go through this one and remove all the " wonderfull fixes". I like machines original. Heres another project im working on. The playfield is gonna be cleared tomorrow... ill repost when i get closer to more probs..

justjoe · « **Reply #7 on:** November 14, 2015, 05:19:55 PM »

Anyone know the pinouts of this?

justjoe · « **Reply #8 on:** November 15, 2015, 08:30:27 AM »

Okay so i tested the transformer and the voltages are correct. Im removing a bunch of bad fixes. On coil was hooked to ground, so who ever was working on this was wrong. I also found cut and taped wires in the door, attached pic. Going to learn quite a bit about these em slots going through this one!

OldReno · « **Reply #9 on:** November 15, 2015, 12:23:41 PM »

Looks like a hell of a job you got there.
If you look at the pages 14 to 21 on your free downloadable Bally EM manual, you can see quite a few schematics which MAY help you with your repair job.
Sadly the wire colors are not displayed, but you can start your own schematic as you go along.
Be sure to document everything you change so that you can go back later if need be to correct anything.
Make a cheat sheet of the bally color code, so that you can reference wire numbers to real colors.
See if you can find any vendors or others on this site who have a schematic for your particular model, it will help you tremendously.
Keep a log.
Note that I see in one of your pics a 30 wire on the door (yellow) that has been tied into a brown/? it appears. I would be suspect of that.
The 30 wire should go to the common side of your coin in switch, not to a brown wire.

Also, I just noticed on your pic of the transformer, that you have two incorrect wires. The 30 wire (yellow) is supposed to be the center tap of your transformer, and the orange (70) wire is supposed to be the 50V. You have them reversed, and this would explain a lot of your problems, including blowing out all your 6V bulbs.
Someone either changed the transformer or just decided to dick around with it. And certainly the other modifications were due to this miswiring in the first place. If the replacer had noticed the miswire, they would not have had to add all that stuff.
You should fix this first thing off...and be sure to use the one hand in the pocket technique, and do NOT short yourself to case until you find out more about what it will do next. Hell of an adventure.

Did this machine ever work for you?

Also, please try to keep your repair work on this machine all on ONE POST, otherwise we will have to search all over. It just doesn't work to spread out your posts, it becomes just too confusing for many of us to follow. If you keep it all in one spot, everybody will be happier. And it does not matter how long the post gets. Thanks.
Use the force.

justjoe · « **Reply #10 on:** November 15, 2015, 02:24:55 PM »

I wish i would have read this an hour ago! I did switch the wires, that was the high voltage problem. Now im going move onto figuring out the payout system. The download says i do not have authority. Ive got a few ive found online to work with.

OldReno · « **Reply #11 on:** November 15, 2015, 03:27:17 PM »

Is this the link you tried?
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=1535

justjoe · « **Reply #12 on:** November 15, 2015, 04:40:02 PM »

it says im not allowed to view downloads...

Shaggy · « **Reply #13 on:** November 15, 2015, 05:01:38 PM »

You can't click on that link and get the download? If not, even a small contribution will get you a 30 day contributing member pass. Maybe try that.

Dave

justjoe · « **Reply #14 on:** November 15, 2015, 06:52:44 PM »

I do plan on contributing, just wanted to check this forum first. I was on pinside and all it is now is people trying to bring u down...

OldReno · « **Reply #15 on:** November 16, 2015, 01:08:15 PM »

As I recall there was another link that allowed folks to get by that problem.
Does anyone remember it???
Joe, I am pretty certain you do NOT need to contribute to be able to download the EM manual...

Jon · « **Reply #16 on:** November 16, 2015, 04:54:27 PM »

old Reno at the bottom of every post I do is a link for the free manual and yes you do need to contribute something on this website to download it from here but it is the same manual

OldReno · « **Reply #17 on:** November 16, 2015, 06:05:02 PM »

Dear ovenguy thank you, XOXOXO
everyone get that???
download it... do it today.
(my hero)

Jon · « **Reply #18 on:** November 16, 2015, 06:23:15 PM »

no problem old Reno I even printed it out so I have a nice new copy I didn't want to wear out the 1972 copy I got from ace gaming its just to clean of an old manual

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Author Topic: 1090 pics needed! (Read 7865 times)