Thank you for your reply.
I guess that since I have a 1 year guarantee on the machine, I will be returning it at the next Chicagoland Show since it is basically unfixable.
Best regards,
Jerry

Nobody gets paid to answer your questions this is all volunteers. The money goes to running the site. It doesn’t matter how many times you ask the same question. There are very few people that can even make a sound chip and probably fewer that have many files. I personally have had over a 1000 Bally 6000 and have never seen that title. Google is free.

One of two things is going on. You are missing one or two colors. Looks to me like you are missing Red and Green.
Or the game board is sending a bad image.

Check those transistors I mentioned. Put your meter on Diode check and check all 9 of those transistors. It's o.k. if they check open but if any of them are dead-short it's bad.

I don't know what H10 and H24 are, there aren't any parts on the board that are labeled with letters and numbers that I recall. Are you talking about the surface mount 10uf on the PRA-H board? If so, that isn't your problem. You ruled that out by having a stable image once you installed the other caps.

You don't need to replace any other caps than the ones in the electrolytic set. The image problem you are having now is not capacitor related. You are making great progress.

Chris

I checked all 9 transistors and they all check out fine. I agree that it seems like Red and Green aren’t being displayed. Could it possibly be the IC chip C5346A? If so, is there a way to check the chip?

Cheers,
Chris

I have a S plus but Im guessing tito doesnt work on that? Ill run through the set up again, maybe 3rd or 4th time is a charm lol

One of two things is going on. You are missing one or two colors. Looks to me like you are missing Red and Green.
Or the game board is sending a bad image.

Check those transistors I mentioned. Put your meter on Diode check and check all 9 of those transistors. It's o.k. if they check open but if any of them are dead-short it's bad.

I don't know what H10 and H24 are, there aren't any parts on the board that are labeled with letters and numbers that I recall. Are you talking about the surface mount 10uf on the PRA-H board? If so, that isn't your problem. You ruled that out by having a stable image once you installed the other caps.

You don't need to replace any other caps than the ones in the electrolytic set. The image problem you are having now is not capacitor related. You are making great progress.

Chris