S+ problem

[therockinelvis]

I've got one driving me crazy. Working on a machine and using pseudo coin button. All was working great. Closed door and credits were still there. Fixed door optics, closed door and got code 21. Did a clear using test button as usual, put SP back in and got 61-2. Pushed the test button a hundred times with no response. Put clear back in and test button worked. So, I change the CMOS and got the 61. Held test button, wiggled it, pushed it who knows how many times and no 61-1. Changed the board and still same thing. SP1271 and SS4713 (I think is wrong) Rapid Fire Jackpots. I know we have been struggling with JULES for weeks with some what the same problem.

[keystone9]

Push and hold the test button until you get a 61-2. Bill.

[therockinelvis]

Good to hear from you Bill. It's stuck on 61. Pushed and held button until finger hurt. In the morning I'll try changing the mother board. It makes no sense why the button works for the clear chip but not the SP. I even tried a SP 1048 in place of the SP1271. When I first fired this thing up, I got the 61, held button then 61-1, closed door and turned key and it did the spin and was ready. Used the pseudo button for credits and played well with the door open. When I closed the door the credits from pseudo did not go away. I adjusted the door optics and the pseudo credit went away and left code 21. Coin in problem. Lifted latch many times and 21 would not go away, so I did a clear. After that got the 61-2 that would not clear with the button. Changed CMOS and got 61 and it won't go to 61-1.

[Shaggy]

Maybe what Jules has is contagious.     Sorry Jim I couldn't help it.

[therockinelvis]

Going to get back on it this morning. When I figure this one out, JULES can be helped.

[Jim]

shouldn't be too much to figure out!  typically a non clearing 61 code is corrected by clearing the machine, if that fails then it is usually the EEPROM on the mother board that is bad.  as for the 21 code,  it could be many things causing this, but they all involve the coin in optics, either there is a optic signal that is staying in the wrong state or it is not being seen by the cpu. (bad connection, pinched wire near the door wire harness).

You have other machines, swap the coin in assembly in another machine, that eliminates a lot of problems. plus you can always do the input test on the optics and know for sure how they are working.

Jim

[therockinelvis]

On the far left of the board is an eeprom that might be the problem. It is marked with a SP731 and SS4712. It seemed odd for a chip to be marked with both sp and ss. Usually that chip is not marked at all. And it's not the 61 loop. While in 61 it will not change to 61-1. It's like the button is dead. When I put the clear chip in, the button works then.

[TexasMark]

On the far left of the board is an eeprom that might be the problem. It is marked with a SP731 and SS4712. It seemed odd for a chip to be marked with both sp and ss. Usually that chip is not marked at all. And it's not the 61 loop. While in 61 it will not change to 61-1. It's like the button is dead. When I put the clear chip in, the button works then.

Are you talking about on the MPU or the one on the "backplane" board? Maybe someone just stuck that there to indicate which game and real chips it was set up for.
 
I agree with Jim, that another clear is in order if you swapped the CMOS. Replacing the whole MPU will give you the 61-2 which means the CMOS data does not match the EEPROM. When that error is cleared, the CMOS is supposed to be put back in sync with the EEPROM which normally has the CMOS updating the EEPROM. That is a security thing to keep someone from just swapping MPUs with another game that might change the denomination or something (which is also stored in the EEPROM).  However, if the CMOS chip it's self has been replaced, and thus has lost it's data or has garbage data (since it is battery backed up and lost power), the machine needs to be cleared again to start from scratch. Typically anytime you pull the CMOS out, you will need to do a clear.

[therockinelvis]

Well, I went out to the shop this morning and before I did anything I fired it up. Got the 61, Figured what the heck and pushed the test button and ding it changed to 61-1 like it is supposed to do. Had to fine tune the door optics and everything booted up. Set all the settings and limits, denom. and BV on. All is working great except need to change SS to right chip. Must have been having that "LIP THING" and "ALL SHOOK UP" going on yesterday so the button wouldn't work. I would have liked to find the problem for future repairs, but it fixed itself. Thanks for all the suggestions. I had done most of them already. Thank-ya-thank-ya-very-much