Author Topic: IGT S+ - no power, fixed then only reels spin when powered up (Read 17318 times)

ksgmng · « **on:** March 13, 2015, 11:30:48 AM »

Hi, I have an IGT S+ that originally had no power at all. No Display, lights or anything. However the reels had power as I could feel the resistance when I moved them. After reading this great forum I found the culprit could be the power molex. It was not burnt or anything so I just unplugged it and plugged it back in. Now when I power it up the reels just keep spinning and nothing else. Still no display or lights. Could the molex still be the problem or is it something else now? I believe the power supply is good because the reels are getting power but maybe not? I'm out of ideas. Anyone have some thoughts? I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Kevin

CVslots · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2015, 11:40:13 AM »

With the reels spinning, open the main door and turn the small brass reset key on the handle side of the cabinet. This should stop the reels from spinning.

Let us know what happens after that, as far as displays, lights, etc.

rickhunter · « **Reply #2 on:** March 13, 2015, 11:45:36 AM »

I would check the fuses too, just to be sure.

ksgmng · « **Reply #3 on:** March 13, 2015, 11:51:00 AM »

Thanks CV Slots. I do not have a reset key for the machine unfortunately. This is how I got them. Can I cross the leads and see if that stops the reels?

ksgmng · « **Reply #4 on:** March 13, 2015, 11:52:33 AM »

I did check the 3 fuses and they were fine. I pulled them out and reseated them in the holders as someone had mentioned in an older post that the holder's are sometimes bad.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #5 on:** March 13, 2015, 11:57:40 AM »

you should be able to remove the back nut from the reset key switch and slide it out of the hole far enough to touch them together. Your key for that is a standard 2341 key.

ksgmng · « **Reply #6 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:05:02 PM »

I now have the reels stopped but back to square one. No power to the display or lights but I know there is power at the reels as I can feel resistance when I try to move them. I messed around with the power molex again at the motherboard but it hasn't changed anything. Maybe it is the power supply? Do you know what voltages I should be getting out of each pin of the 6-pin molex?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #7 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:10:19 PM »

Here you go. Very unusual for it to be power supply.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #8 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:18:00 PM »

Here's what needs to be plugged in on the mother board. It's in a word doc.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #9 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:19:33 PM »

I am guessing you have checked the 2 plugs on each end of the display board?

ksgmng · « **Reply #10 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:29:40 PM »

Thanks for all your help.

I have checked the voltages at the molex and they are all correct so I guess the power supply is ruled out. I also checked the 2 plugs at the displays and they are also connected. All connections on the motherboard are correct. (thanks for the schematic) So I am guessing maybe my motherboard is shot? I guess I should buy another one and see what happens?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #11 on:** March 13, 2015, 12:45:55 PM »

I would suspect the MPU first. Are you sure it is seated good and no pins have been bent. Is this a new machine to you? Have you ever seen it work? It might not be a bad idea to plug and unplug all the connectors going to the tray and mother board. Sometimes just not good contact. If your power supply cable has burnt marks on it, it could still be the problem by not transferring the power to the board. This plug is turned backward to show burn.

ksgmng · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2015, 01:14:56 PM »

I have reseated all plugs on the motherboard and no change so I just pulled it. There is a brownish / white residue that goes under one of the plugs that looks like corrosion. however it just looks surface. I'm not sure if this is my problem. I am trying to post a pic but every time I try to post I get a page lockup?

CVslots · « **Reply #13 on:** March 13, 2015, 01:26:41 PM »

But you do not have any fluorescent lights still? There are 3 bulbs, one in top box, one in front of reels, and one in the bottom/belly glass. The lights should be lit, regardless if machine is ready to play or not. I'm suspecting a fuse is blown or incorrect amperage. You pulled the fuses and looked at them, did you test them with a tester? And they are 6A, 8A, and 6A, correct? There is a possibility that all 3 bulbs are out, so if you happen to have a spare bulb, swap it in and try it.

Eliminate the easy stuff first...

Shaggy · « **Reply #14 on:** March 13, 2015, 01:36:21 PM »

After the bulbs if still no light check the starters too.

ksgmng · « **Reply #15 on:** March 13, 2015, 01:58:55 PM »

Ok, I checked the fuses and did fine one with a cracked glass but still intact. I swapped it out from another machine I had. All are good and correct and no change. Next I checked the reel lamp and belly lamp. both were missing starters so I pulled one from a working machine I have and put in both the belly first and then the reel light. Still no lights.

When I first turn on the machine I have a kick from the reels and a small pop from the speaker. Then just a constant hum from I assume the reels since they are the only things seeming to have power. If I twist out each fuse it shuts down the power to the reels so i assume each fuse is working correctly if it is shutting down power when removed.

Maybe the transformer is bad? I have never seen a transformer go bad but who knows.

ksgmng · « **Reply #16 on:** March 13, 2015, 02:10:22 PM »

I was just looking at the transformer to see if maybe a wire came off the primary or something but all wires are connected. not sure on the output plugs but the way it is connected is I have 3 plugged into the back row and 1 plugged into the center in the front row. there are none plugged into the 3 i believe it is on the right side and then there are 2 that plug into the ac cord side. I checked the other machine I have and it is the same. However this machine is in the same state as the one I am working on.

Shaggy · « **Reply #17 on:** March 13, 2015, 02:37:16 PM »

Do you have a machine with known working board? If so maybe try switching the mpus and see if you get a change. Trying to think of options here.

CVslots · « **Reply #18 on:** March 13, 2015, 02:53:01 PM »

Here is some info from Jim/Midwest Slots (NLG user name Jim)...it is a wealth of info! Enjoy the read!

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S+ Power Issues / Troubleshooting

The S+ machine is a solid working machine, very few problems and EXTREMELY easy to repair. In over 15 years of working on these machines I have never had a Power Supply Module bad. there have been coins that got into that area and caused a fuse to blow, but outside of that an occasional fuse holder crack. The only parts in the module are the fuse holders, the terminal blocks, the inline filter, and the transformer and the plugs and connectors. The only voltages that come out of this unit are the AC voltages, they are the 115 VAC connectors in the back, these all go to power the florescent lamps (black and white wires) the bigger plug on the back goes to the on/off switch assembly. the two connectors on the side, one goes to the FAMOUS connector that fails all the time, the other goes to the the hopper SSR. (115vac to operate the hopper motor) the three AC voltages provided by the transformer are 24vac center tapped, 8vac and 7 vac. these voltages are provided to the motherboard to be distributed to all the units needing the required voltage. the 7 vac is used to provide an operating voltage for all the lamps in the machine #86 (inset coin lamp,coin accept lamp, denomination lamp. etc.) #297,#555,or ? switch button lamps. the 24 vac is used to power the handle solenoid, used to power the step down transformer on the board tray to provide voltage to make the +5vdc that operate the logic on the main CPU board. the 8vac is used to power the circuit that establishes the voltage to hold the reels in place (stiff), it also provides the voltage Vb. This voltage runs alot of things in the machine, it is sent to the coin optics, and it is the primary voltage that runs the DISPLAY board. This voltage can be measured across the larger electrolytic cap on the display board, I think it is C6, you should be able to measure 8-10vdc across this cap. In a recap of the above information, let me tell you what you could assume from this information.

If the reels are "STIFF"- all three fuses are good, why? one fuse controls the 115vac coming into the machine, if the florescent's are on, the 115vac has to be getting to the transformer to provide the voltages to make the voltage to hold the reels in place. the other two are used to make those voltages that hold the reels in place. another way to check to see if your fuses are good (if you don't have a meter handy) unloosen the fuse cap, one at a time and observe and listen what happens, the 115vac fuse un done, the flourescents go out, the 24vac fuse, the reels are not stiff, you hear a crackling noise in the speaker, the 8vac fuse, again the reels are not stiff and you hear a crackling noise from the speaker.
So basically we have tested all the voltages(AC) by just observing what is going on, we have tested some of the DC voltages (reels stiff) and if we measured the +Vb at the display then we know that all the voltages are good except the +5 vdc and the +VUN . I would ASSUME that these are good as well. I have only seen two times that these voltages were bad, both times the voltage regulator was shorted and caused the diode that is in front of the regulator to drop off the board.

Fuses are very easy to check, right, WRONG. Typically a blow fuse will show that it is bad, a blackened spot inside the glass and the wire is open, but what about the fuse that is not blackened? or the wire is not open? I have seen the appearance look good but the fuse was bad. sometimes the wire will break open up underneath the metal ends of the fuse, not visible to the eye, the only good way to test the fuse is with a meter, or if you don't have a meter handy you could use a flashlight, un screw the end cap to get at the batteries, place the fuse on the end of the battery and put he other end of the fuse to the end cap and turn on the flashlight, if it comes on the fuse is good.

I have seen the one of two components that make up the +Vb voltage go bad, mainly the diode.

This should help you with your power supply problems. You should NEVER attempt to troubleshoot any electronics until you have determined that all your operating voltages are good, if not, you are just spinning your wheels.

The S+ machine has a built in set of diagnostics that will test EVERY function of that machine, when you use these tests it makes the machine very easy to determine what the problem is and helps to isolate to a sub assembly.

The biggest and most talked about problem area on this machine is the DOOR OPTICS. there are two areas that cause this problem(outside of the wires being broke on the optics themselves) that is with the cash can door switch, two green wires that enter the back of the cash can area, these should always be spliced together, the other area is the belly door switch located in the upper left hand corner of the belly door, (most machine did not have this switch installed there is a jumper loop where it would have been installed) but if your machine has it, bypass (splice) it as well.
On the input test(diagnostic) test #13 will test the door optic , you will see a 1/0 alternating when you put the latch in the down position, it will stop when you lift it up, if it does this the optics are good.

Hope this helps

Jim

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ksgmng · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2015, 03:39:17 PM »

Thanks, that is great information. Is the diode Jim speaking about in the power supply? I don't see it in where the transformer is. I have done the fuse tests whereby pulling each one while the machine is on. They seem really sensitive where if I twist as far as I can I get no hum and if loose I get a hum. Either way I think the power remains. If I remove the bottom fuse I lose the power (stiff) to the reels. If I remove the middle and top I still have power (stiff) at the reels. I think this is correct according to what Jim is saying.

I'd like to check out this diode and I guess if that isn't bad I will start the process of elimination with replacing parts. I'm just out of ideas.

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Author Topic: IGT S+ - no power, fixed then only reels spin when powered up (Read 17318 times)