New Slot Owner with IGT+ Where to get what I need?

[rokgpsman]

I think the coin acceptor would mount in the area circled by yellow in photo below. Not sure, but you may also need a metal plate or bracket to hold the coin acceptor, hopefully not.

The disconnected cables on your door I've circled for others to comment on. There is usually a power cable that goes to the coin acceptor. And below the coin acceptor some machines have what is called an optics board which has a cable going to it. The coin comparator rejects everything that doesn't match the sample coin/token installed in it. After the good coin/token passes thru the coin comparator it drops past an optics board. This board is connected to the mpu (cpu) board and lets it know when a good coin has been inserted into machine so a credit can be added for play. After passing the optics board the good coin/token slides into the coin hopper located in bottom area of machine. The coin comparator has another path for rejected coins, they are dropped into the front tray to give back to the player.

The coin comparator often looks similar to the photo below, although this is not one in a machine like yours it will give you an idea what they look like. They come in different versions and operating voltages. You insert a sample coin or token under the round sliding door and the comparator then only accepts that type of coin/token.

[Shaggy]

Here's one from mine:

[CVslots]

So something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-JCM-WBA-12SS-Bill-Acceptor-/171734953832?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fc336f68

BTW CV Slots I see that you sell some of this stuff. I completely appreciate the help and if these are parts you can furnish I'm good with dealing with you, up until just now eBay was my only place to find this stuff. However one person selling on eBay was nice enough to tell me about this website.

The eBay listing you show will work, although I will have a heart attack if you actually pay the $38 shipping...

[therockinelvis]

You will need the coin bracket with optics for S+ and the pigtail harness for the comparator and a comparator. If CV doesn't have what you need send a message to CP in Texas. Chris had a few left. You can find him in our members list. How many machines did you just get? I see at least 3 in your picture.

[rokgpsman]

On his bill validator situation, can anyone tell by the cables in his machine's BV area (photo below) what model BV was in there before? If it was a DBV-200 was the last ID-022/023 (IGT) software release of any use, will it at least work with the new $10 and $20 bills? If so this might be his lowest cost way to use paper money with the machine.

Otherwise he is looking at a WBA setup which means new cables right?? And will the WBA install into the DBV housing, just needs WBA and transport and cables?

I'm sure he'd like to hear his choices on the BV situation.

Also, there is a white 2-wire connector in the photo above the bill validator area, is this for a security switch in the cash compartment or something else?

I got the spec document for the last JCM software update for DBV-200 SS ID-022/023, it is attached. I can never be sure I'm reading these things right but it looks like it works with bills of design from 2004 and earlier. Are these the bills we still see in circulation now and is this the correct software document for the S+ ? If the DBV software is a dead end then that settles it, will have to install a WBA unit.

[Shaggy]

I think he will have to change the cage, bill stacker, b/v, and harness to go to to a WBA system. And probably the bezel also. Not a lot of money but basically a complete change. And if he goes to a wba 12 or 13 he will need software either flash (12) or eprom (13) to get the the right combo. S+ is ido 22/23. Which uses 1mb chip (I believe). The wba 12 or 13 uses a 4 mb chip that is ido 24 that will need to be programmed to 22/23. Sounds kinda crazy but that 's what makes it work. If I've missed or skipped something here please chime in as I don't want to steer them wrong.


Probably the validator power supply also.

[rokgpsman]

Shaggy- Does this coin comparator mounting bracket with optics look like yours on the S+ ?

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=2595

[sturgeongeneral]

Darrell at CVSlots will take care of you. He is good honest people. He always take care of us.

[Shaggy]

Shaggy- Does this coin comparator mounting bracket with optics look like yours on the S+ ?

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=2595





Yes that looks just like mine.

[papajohn]

CV Slots are good people and can help you with most if not all of what you need.   John

[Jim]

Bob,  you have a major  job ahead of you:
You have a old style DBV145/200 set up, to change to a WBA you will need:
head and transport and duckbill and software for a S+,  transport shelf assembly and harness for a WBA 12, power supply for WBA unit, door bezel for a WBA, a cash can for a WBA, and a two pin connector for the door bezel lighting.


coin in :  bracket to attach the housing too: (can't tell if its there)  the housing itself with 4 plastic coin comp. holders and coin in optics. looks like the harness is there ( can't see if the harness is complete) and a 24vac -16d coin comp.


door optics, black plastic holder and mounting hardware.


board, and two game chips


set and clear chip


this is just for starters, I can provide all these tested and working parts.


looks like the glass and strips are after market, that shouldn't matter .


Jim

[rokgpsman]

.....
board, and two game chips

The mpu circuit board is missing?? Where would it be mounted, under the reels shelf or over on a sidewall maybe?  Are there other circuit boards in his S+ that may be missing also, like I/O board, power supply, sound, message display board, etc?

[therockinelvis]

Good spot on the Board. I had looked for the hopper and stopped there. Hope he got the machine for under $100. probably put another 150 to 200 in it.

[GadgetBob]

       Thanks everyone for the comments, although I still am processing it all. Had a death in the family this week that kind of slowed things down for me. That and I'm getting on a cruise ship in about a week, so things are a bit hectic.

       There were a few questions for me that I saw. First thing is that I only purchased one and it was at auction. I picked the unit up for around $145 after buyers premium, etc. Regardless of whether or not it was a good, well the deal is done so I work with what I have.

[GadgetBob]

       With a reckless use of the tab button I posted that before I finished it.

       The rest continues:

       As for what I want out of it, I really just want it to play. Accepting bills and coins would be cool but like I mentioned I have worked on a few Pachislo slot machines so I'm basically over the coin dumping etc. I just want to make it work so I can add credits to it and play it. I don't mind putting money into it, just not wasted money (in other words I don't want to throw so much at the machine that when I sell it (and I will sell it and buy another one)) I take a major beating. Now of course if I'm already behind the 8-ball with a missing controller board (which sounds pretty much like something that won't make me happy), then perhaps I may need to rethink the project altogether.

     

[rickhunter]

The S+'s are built like tanks.  Once you get them going, hardly anything goes wrong with them.  Casino's would probably have kept them going if it wasn't for the fact that they all wanted to move away from coin handling and IGT never provided a path to do that with this platform.  You can still see some of these in Vegas downtown casinos.  You are already $150 into it, it will take at least $200 in parts to get a working MPU board with the correct software, a WBA 12/13 setup (power supply, cage, bezel, etc.), the missing parts of the coin-in assembly.  Assuming the rest of the parts in the machine are working, $350 is still under what you can get a fully fully shopped S+ (though not by much).

[rokgpsman]

       Thanks everyone for the comments, although I still am processing it all. Had a death in the family this week that kind of slowed things down for me. That and I'm getting on a cruise ship in about a week, so things are a bit hectic.
       There were a few questions for me that I saw. First thing is that I only purchased one and it was at auction. I picked the unit up for around $145 after buyers premium, etc. Regardless of whether or not it was a good, well the deal is done so I work with what I have.

Condolences on the death in your family. There's never a good time for that to happen.

I've paid more than I wish I had sometimes on stuff that I just wanted to have or got caught up in the buying process. It is easy to do when the item is something that prices aren't familiar, and really it varies on what part of the country you are in as to what your machine would sell for elsewhere. Naturally a lot of the regulars here on NLG are very familiar with slots and pretty much bargain hunters so anything over $100 for an older used machine is high. I would say there's some cheap ba$tards (and ba$tardnettes) here, but in fairness I'm about the same.   

Your machine is not the typical one we see here that somebody owned and it was working for a while, then it stopped and they want to fix it, or they sold it and the new owner wants to fix it. Yours had some of its parts removed and then it was put up for sale, incomplete. Because of this you might want to show some pictures of the cabinet interior with the hopper and the reels removed so people can see exactly what is there and what might be missing. That way you'll know what you are in for to get it working.

Like they say, all things are possible, it just takes money & time.

[GadgetBob]

        I agree on the all things are possible with Money and Time. I own a custom installation business (Smarthomes, Home Theaters, etc. )

        I certainly don't know much about these machines (but of course that's the allure). I will likely take those pictures and post them when I return from the Bahamas. I'm not sure what the MPU looks like, however there aren't any large groups of unplugged plugs that I would associate to a missing controller. There are a bunch of power supply plugs (plugged in vertically) behind the cash box area. And there is a large collection of harnesses that come down in back of the coin hopper. They look like they had a metal noise shield over them at some point, but now that shield has been removed. I honestly can't see behind the hopper very easily without putting a huge gash in the door of my convertible, however I imagine that I will likely find that there is a controller board back there. I will let everyone know how that pans out.


      I really appreciate how everyone here is so willing to help a newbie like me.


      And as for the condolences, thank you. Grandfather, one day shy of his 93rd... If we could all be so lucky as to last that long and be up and walking around up until a week before.

[rokgpsman]

There is plenty of help here so just ask when you want to know about something. The controller or main system board in slots is often referred to as the "mpu board" and sometimes the "cpu board". Below is an example photo of an IGT mpu board, I think it is for an S+. Notice it is mounted to a metal shield. The larger white connectors on the edge are what connects it to the interconnect board (motherboard). These mpu boards came in at least two varieties, early ones had a speed of 10 mhz and later ones 16 mhz. That may not be a concern, either may work ok in your machine, others can tell us about that.

Plugged into the mpu board are chips that contain the game software and the machine's operating software. These chips are in sockets and can be changed if you want to change the game theme or sometimes to add improvements. Sometimes when the machine has a problem, like dead battery or power supply failure, or if you change the game theme chips you will need to clear memory and reset settings. To clear and set things there are chips most owners acquire in case they want to make changes. These chips are plugged into the mpu when needed, then removed and the game chips reinstalled.

The mpu board plugs into an smaller interconnect board, it is often called the "motherboard" because nearly everything else plugs into or connects to it directly or thru cabling. I *think* your motherboard will be located behind the hopper on the bottom floor of the cabinet, and the mpu board will plug into it standing vertically. It will then be in front of all that wiring you see along the back wall of the bottom area behind the hopper.

In your photos that black box on the right, below the reels, looks like the power supply for the bill validator. Some machines main power supply provides the power the BV needs, other machines don't and they have a BV power supply.

I'm not an expert on your machine and still learning, so standby for any corrections to what I've said.

Enjoy your cruise - hope for great weather!

[shortrackskater]

If he just wants it to work, regarding the bill validator, I think it makes a LOT more sense to just reinstall a DBV 200. I have a few like that and they're just fine for home use taking 1's and 20's.
The WBA's are great but what's the point of adding a lot more time and cost here?
The only thing though is to check the power supply to make sure it's for a DBV 200 and not a 145.
The 200 looks like this, with the vents.