IGT S2000 Tabasco Machine All Board LEDs No VFD Message

[TheDeadman]

Just checked again and I think I had the meter on DC which gave me the wrong readings. The AC setting says its around 1.x V and if I test with a visible LED, I can see that it works and just pulses a bit every few seconds. I suppose I just need an IR LED that I can rewire to the hookup and Ill have working optics.

[Stayouttadabunker]

The emitter optic from an old TV remote control will work. 

Not all cameras are the same...Test your digital camera.

Look at your TV remote with the camera and see if any light is coming out of it.
If you see anything, now you know THAT camera is good enough to see if your door emitter optic is okay.

A very long time, I made a bypass using some wire and a cherry switch.
That machine, to this day, still does NOT have any optics.

[TheDeadman]

The emitter optic from an old TV remote control will work. 

Not all cameras are the same...Test your digital camera.

Look at your TV remote with the camera and see if any light is coming out of it.
If you see anything, now you know THAT camera is good enough to see if your door emitter optic is okay.

A very long time, I made a bypass using some wire and a cherry switch.
That machine, to this day, still does NOT have any optics.

Just checked my camera. Can definitely see the signals coming from the remote and definitely CAN'T see the signals from the led. Guess I'll have to find an old TV remote and rip out the LED (or buy one from china)

[Stayouttadabunker]

Read this...it' from 2010

It might help you until you get some optics...>>>

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0

[qbert]

A set of optics are still fairly cheap and available, just post a wtb in the classifieds.
They will be plug and play. You are really down to the component level already.

[TheDeadman]

Read this...it' from 2010

It might help you until you get some optics...>>>

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0

Ill try that, but in the mean time, a regular LED wouldn't work, right? I have tons of LEDs laying around just no IR ones. Also is there a way to test the receiver if I use a TV remote to test the outputs?

[TheDeadman]

Read this...it' from 2010

It might help you until you get some optics...>>>

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8683.0

Tried the bypass and alternative LED (that wasn't IR, had a snowstorm today so couldn't go out) and still no luck. I want to make sure that the door is fully closed despite the LED/Receiver lining up and the door no longer being able to open without a key. Does the below image look like its fully latched? The key will lock it just fine, no coin tray in the way and the optics line up. I'm gonna look into getting another MPU incase the traces are damaged by the evil green battery, but right now the only test that remains is the IR LED test which has me worried.

[qbert]

The handle is not down. It must go all the way to the bottom of the slot.
If you tried the bypass then as long as the white cherry switch is pushed in (or pulled all the way out) the game should sense the door is closed even if it is open.
Have you sent a picture of the mpu board where the varta used to be?

[TheDeadman]

The handle is not down. It must go all the way to the bottom of the slot.
If you tried the bypass then as long as the white cherry switch is pushed in (or pulled all the way out) the game should sense the door is closed even if it is open.
Have you sent a picture of the mpu board where the varta used to be?

Praying its not board traces. When I did the bypass, I held down the cherry switch and got no where. I might just need to buy another MPU 

[Tilt]

You just found your door open problem.  Varta battery took out another one 

[TheDeadman]

You just found your door open problem.  Varta battery took out another one 

Is there any possible way to recover the board? or am I 100% screwed?

[Tilt]

I think Retro Tech Repair works on them, maybe lookes too.  Whether or not it can be repaired depends on how much damage has been done to it. 

[TheDeadman]

I think Retro Tech Repair works on them, maybe lookes too.  Whether or not it can be repaired depends on how much damage has been done to it.

damn, looks like I'm sending gtaslots another email. Thanks for your help

[TheDeadman]

I think Retro Tech Repair works on them, maybe lookes too.  Whether or not it can be repaired depends on how much damage has been done to it.

Just took another look at the Dead board cause it has 0 traces of ever having the evil green battery, or any corrosion damage at all. The only differences I can see between the boards is a strange jumper from a diode to a trace on the board. Is it possible that the jumper will revive the board? Then I just have to reinstall the bypass and Ill have a working machine    Below is the differences between the boards.

[Tilt]

Not likely.  If you look at the part numbers of the board itself they probably have different part number's or rev numbers.  Sometimes errors or improvements are made after the board has been produced so they run jumpers or add components to correct it, then the next revision they integrate those into the board and production incrementing the rev # or part #. 

[TheDeadman]

Not likely.  If you look at the part numbers of the board itself they probably have different part number's or rev numbers.  Sometimes errors or improvements are made after the board has been produced so they run jumpers or add components to correct it, then the next revision they integrate those into the board and production incrementing the rev # or part #.

You're right, working board is a 75510501 and dead board is a 75510502. Are there any tests you can recommend I try on the 502 board to see why its dead? Its a perfectly clean board and the chips are not the problem (I moved all the working chips from the good board to the dead board to test). All the leds come on the front on boot.

[Tilt]

You could try swapping all the socketed components from the working (but acid damaged) board to the non-damaged board and see if you were lucky enough that one of them is bad.  Be careful removing the PLCC chips from the sockets if you don't have the tool to do it so you don't bend pins. 

[a69mopar]

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/325513377385?hash=item4bca1bf669:g:qZoAAOSwMRRj004Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoEu6JxYzFv8tg8PtDly%2FoIRBmA5ecwfSa6x6s4qO%2B%2F%2FS5%2BFS0OBnb7105vwBXPxOp54Xabmliu7u3blMJ5sGRD53%2BFPJTnhVnajtXzwWK8eVK9q%2BZJk3qRN1fBwlYFVGPwgTnfO8mF7BgyJMIGaiZEFpcQ%2FdCarE8uMAP40RRVDF7ez23Kj6fFu6siIFs5fKJjP3UyXcEsQr5uWJImvEluY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6i3-Nm-YQ

take a look at the battery on this board listed on ebay. Not sure if the seller is on here, but the battery needs to go.

Thanks,
Wayne

[Sunrise Side]

Check with Jim Midwest slots. He may have a board.

[Tater]

Check with Lookes, he does good work, and should be able to repair your board

Good Luck