Author Topic: Bally 1115-5 questions (Read 17814 times)

kb8yrw · « **on:** January 04, 2015, 08:55:53 AM »

I brought the slot home yesterday afternoon and the wife crinkled up her nose a bit at it siting it was old and dirty looking. Well so am I at times so I wasn't going to let that stop me

Anyway I thought I better get on the cosmetic stuff a bit this morning and wipe away some of the spider nests, smoke and grime. I got the chrome polish and pledge out and must say it looks like a different machine with just an initial cleaning.

After the cleaning I started on the meat and potatoes and started familiarizing myself with this new project. The first thing I found is when you pull on the bandit's arm the reels sometimes do not spin and just give a load clunk. Sometimes the first two will spin but stop right away together and the third just spins in the breeze. It is about 45 deg in the garage so I figured out how to pull the reels out and took them in the house to warm up. I'm thinking it probably needs cleaned up and the grease is stiff.

Another question I have is maybe a simple one, what does the service button do on this machine since there isn't a candle? I have not been able to find a wiring diagram for this model yet so I thought I would ask the experts about the service button.

Something else that raises an eyebrow is what's behind the payout glass on top. I removed the glass and it looks like something out of Bubba's carpenter shop. Certainly not what I was expecting to see from a manufacturer. I've attached a couple pictures so you can see what I'm referring to. Is this typical or is it part of the IGT refurb? Since there isn't anything in the upper box was this a lowboy model at one time? The serial numbers are confusing also the IGT tag says 1113 but the Bally tag says 1115. I know now that the original date of manufacture is 7 19 78 from the small stamp in the black area of the Bally tag. The manual I found for the EM machine only seems to go up to the 900 models and does not include the 1000's is there one available for this old gem?

I'm sure I will have many more questions once I start getting into this and actually power it up.

OldReno · « **Reply #1 on:** January 04, 2015, 02:28:40 PM »

Looks like a fun machine.
No, it will not work at 45 degrees. You should always try to bring it inside and let it warm up for a day before plugging it in, IMHO, but it's hard to do when you are anxious to get at it. I know what you mean.
Your reel kick and spin will do better once you oil the clock.
Also, be aware, that if too cold, the top unit odds step up assembly may not reset fully if the grease is too cold. This may cause one of your reset coils to stay on too long and fry. So, pay attention, and if you hear a buzzing in the top unit that doesn't go away, be sure to turn off or unplug the machine.
I think you'll have lots of fun with it.

An afterthought-- it appears you have nothing in the top other than the light board. Your odds stuff is then likely to be located down behind the hopper.

kb8yrw · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2015, 05:50:27 PM »

I took the reel mechanism back out to the garage to clean it up. I sprayed it down (strategically)with PB blaster to wash out and loosen up some of the old grease. My intention was to move the project into the house once I got the messy part done. What I forgot was how bad PB blaster smells!!!

I attempted to move the reel mechanism back into the house after the cleaning and the wife just about met me at the door.

Guess I'll have to wait for that to wear off a bit. Anyway while cleaning and spraying I was looking at the clock assembly trying to figure out what exactly was going on there. I tell ya the person who thought all that up must not have had any friends lol. I noticed that when I cocked the reels the whole clock moved. Turns out the two mounting bolts that hold it on to the side where just about falling out. I tightened it up but that did not help the occasional clunk and no spinning reels. I looked at the clock a little closer and noticed what appeared to be small ratchets encased in some pretty thick goo. I cleaned the ratchets up enough where I could see them moving and so far it has been cocking properly.

I decided to put the hopper back in and plug the beast in to see what it would do. All the lights came on and that's about it. It is showing that all three coins are in but will not release the reels unless I open the door and manually release the latch. Once that happens it still does nothing and just stays in the same state. The hopper never ran or even tried to move. So it looks like I have my work cut out for me but I have to find the wiring diagram. I also noticed I need to locate the star looking piece that's bolted to the center of the hopper. Looks like it stirs the coins possibly. The one on there is gooey like oil has broken it down and it is disintegrating.

I think I might be able to use one of the older wiring diagrams for most of the troubleshooting. Looks like they may not be too dissimilar.

I pulled the hopper back out for now and placed a 100 watt bulb in the bottom to keep it warm until I get the okay from the wife to bring it inside. I really need to get my pole barn/mancave built this spring

Amechanic · « **Reply #3 on:** January 04, 2015, 06:53:09 PM »

I'm sure you are going to have to do more degreasing of levers on the small cross shafts in your reels linkage.. There are two small cross shafts about 3/16'' in dia., ones black and I think one chrome.. The one shaft has levers that need to pivot, if they don't your linkages will not spin or kick correct.. The larger ones need to move too, but I've noticed that those small pivoting levers if not lubed and free cause the most problems..

Here is a link to the hopper star your going to need.. You might want to buy a couple to have, because once you get the slot machine bug, they just seem to multiply...

http://na.suzohapp.com/wp/search.p?SECTION=GAMING_PARTS&SEARCH_TXT=agitator&Search=GO

Gary

The Fatman · « **Reply #4 on:** January 04, 2015, 07:31:07 PM »

If you live close to Philadelphia, I might be able to help you get it fixed. Otherwise ... it used to stay plugged in and working 24-7 in the casino, that kep the lubrication grease soft. But if it is unplugged and cold, the old grease stiffens up. I use PB Blaster and have gotten used to the stink. Works great for what your trying to do. Your wheels wont spin if the linkage below is gummed up. I remove the reels from the frame and put cardboard under it to absorb the drippings and spray all the linkage. I also work them by hand too. I can feel the movement improve as it softens the old grease. Also the cylender on the right side of the reel assembly, has a rubber gasket that is made out of the same rubber as the agitater star in the hopper. It breaks down and gets gummy and will slow down the movement of the arm. I sometimes remoive it and take akk the old rubber off, clean it with a wire wheel and dremel. PB Blaster a little in the tube and your off and running again. You lose a little in the handle moving back slowly, but the pluss of not having it go s slow or even not quite closing the dashpot swich.
Dave F

OldReno · « **Reply #5 on:** January 05, 2015, 11:55:15 AM »

Once your machine is FULLY WARM, you should be able to just lube the thing with a pinpoint oiler, and work the mating pieces back and forth to get the oil to flow.
There really is no need to hit the whole unit with nasty toxic chemical sprays.
Let the machine get warm, and oil the sucker in all the places where metal rubs against metal. The oil will dilute the grease, and thus allow it to penetrate into the areas where it should.
If it's really nasty, then hit the spots with some wd40 with a tube spray, and that works great too.
Then you can go back with paper towels and whatever and wipe off most of the excess grease.
If seeing the grease really bothers your aesthetics, then take it apart, a piece at at time, clean and lube the piece, put it back where it goes, and then do the next piece.
Grease gets old and dries out and gets sticky and hard. A bit of oil rejuvenates the grease and makes it work again. This is especially true if the machine is FULLY WARMED UP.
You may find that suddenly many of the little problems you had before will disappear when it's warmed and oiled.
But then that's just my opinion, and opinions are like elbows, we all have a couple of them.
Oh, and don't forget to oil your reel boards and wipers, too, as that causes many seemingly unrelated problems if they are sticky.

kb8yrw · « **Reply #6 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:14:18 PM »

Thanks for the offer Fatman but I live in Northwest Ohio. I have a lot of relatives in Delaware/Maryland area.

I finally brought it in the house. The light bulb in the bottom kept it reasonably warm but the temps are dipping negative tonight so I said hell with it, the only way I'm gonna be able to work on this is if I bring it in. The wife said okay it didn't stink too bad now. So it's in the family room next to the other slots getting acclimated to its new surroundings.

Quote from: DonnerPartyofAte on January 05, 2015, 11:55:15 AM

Oh, and don't forget to oil your reel boards and wipers, too, as that causes many seemingly unrelated problems if they are sticky.

I'm glad you mentioned that. I was wondering about them dragging and slowing down the cams seating into the reels. I found an old post from Old Reno and he mentioned oiling the boards and wipers. Should I just use light oil or would dielectric grease work? I think Old Reno just said to lightly coat it with light oil.

I did order the hopper star thank you for the link Amechanic. I really appreciate the guidance everyone is offering. I really like tinkering with things and there sure is a lot to tinker with in these old machines

Amechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:40:12 PM »

FYI... DonnerPartyofate here is OldReno from the old NLG sight.

Gary

rokgpsman · « **Reply #8 on:** January 05, 2015, 05:18:20 PM »

Quote from: Amechanic on January 05, 2015, 04:40:12 PM

FYI... DonnerPartyofate here is OldReno from the old NLG sight.

Gary

Didn't he work on Abraham Lincoln's collection of slot machines?

kb8yrw · « **Reply #9 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:02:29 PM »

Thanks for the heads up on oldreno. Sounds like he knows these machines pretty well.

I started running some quarters through it just to see what it would or wouldn't do.
First coin in the middle pay light stays on and the reels will spin. No payout regardless of where it stops. Second coin in middle pay line stays on but second pay line does not lite up. Pay table light does not show second coin in. Reels will spin but again no pay out. If I put three coins in the second pay line lights up, the pay table shows third coin in, reels spin but again no pay out. I have not heard the hopper run yet. I have had it acknowledge all three coins in once but then it went back to only two.

I'm learning more with every pull

Amechanic · « **Reply #10 on:** January 05, 2015, 07:10:34 PM »

Sounds like your zero switch, (single contact) on your payout assembly is not opening.. There is a plastic lever that opens and closes the zero switch when a payout occurres. There is a black rubber stop bumper made from the same rubber as the hopper star. It gets sticky and doesn't allow the lever to pivot opening the zero switch. Most people just use a pink pencil eraser as the stop bumper. Sounds like you need to pull you stepper unit and payout unit and make sure they are advancing and resetting.

OldReno · « **Reply #11 on:** January 05, 2015, 08:17:50 PM »

Sounds like you're picking it up very well. Good job.
Tomorrow, after you leave it on all night and it gets good and toasty, find and remove your odds disc and assembly.
You will want to put some oil on the white plastic gear (both sides) where it fits through the metal bushing, (you can use a broomstraw and a drop of oil at a time) and also put some light oil on your finger, and rub it on the copper buttons on the odds board. It will allow the fingers to move better, and increase the chances that your odds wipers will be able to move without resistance.
Send pix of the odds disc when you find it. should be above and behind your hopper.

And you have downloaded the FREE bally manual, yes???
It will give you all necessary parts breakdowns, part names and numbers, and also enough schematic information so that we can all talk intelligently about the circuits.

Hey, I wasn't born when Lincoln had his slot machines... Heh.
OldReno

kb8yrw · « **Reply #12 on:** January 06, 2015, 04:21:19 PM »

Do I have a zero switch. I think you are referring to a switch on the hopper correct? I think I have an electrically stepped hopper and the diagram I have doesn't show one on that model. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I oiled the boards and that made a huge difference in the movement of the arms.
I noticed that the coin accepted lite only comes on occasionally even though a coin was accepted and the winner paid lite comes on whenever I put a coin in. Still learning what all the parts are called in the machine.
Yes I did download the manual and after looking at the prints it doesn't look like to much is different. Attached are a couple pics of the innerds. I am continuing to poke around but wife made meatloaf so I might have to take an intermission

OldReno · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2015, 04:54:04 PM »

Hey, I'll do an intermission for meatloaf too, anytime.
Your zero switch is on your payboard carriage, which is the unit at the back right of your first photo.
You can remove the screw holding the unit in place, and move it forward more so that you can watch it as it works. You can also remove the chute to the drop bucket so that will give you a better view too.
It is one of 2 switches in a circuit that has the ONLY function of resetting the payboard after a payout.
If there is no payout, then there is no need to reset the payboard to zero.
The zero switch closes as the Payboard steps up one step. It opens only when the spiral cam on the payboard returns to the 6 o clock postio (zero position), and then the zero switch is forced open.
Another switch, one behind the payboard, operates your winner paid light.
Normally, if the winner paid light is on, then also the zero switch is closed, but remember the zero does not directly operate the WP light. The other switch in the reset circuit to payboard is the reel mech B switch, just above the clock and moving bar called the variator. This switch closes on EVERY handle pull as you will see if you watch it.
So, the two switches, Zero and RM B need to both be closed to reset payboard. This tells us that:
1. Payboard resets on handle pull.
2. Payboard only resets when it has already paid out. (zero swtich) This prevents excess wear on the payboard and components.
Those Bally engineers were diabolically clever.
Hope you are having fun with it.

kb8yrw · « **Reply #14 on:** January 06, 2015, 07:37:50 PM »

Now suffering from meatloaf coma

. So I bellied up to the slot armed with the latest info determined to make some sense of all this. I made an observation while hitting the coin in switch and spinning the reels with the door open. When it hit nothing happened.......hmm the same thing it does with the door closed

In the upper right corner of the door where it matches is what I thought was the door switch but closing the switch doesn't seem to have any effect and it checks good with a meter. So I start looking around and I found another switch in the back of the top hinge. I took a screwdriver and poked the switch, flicked the coin switch and spin the reels. I did that couple times until I hit and then it happened the hopper started running and quarters started spilling out.

Only thing is it hit for 10 but emptied the hopper which had about 30. The hopper timed out like it should and shut the machine off. So I'm thinking the switch at the top of the hopper isn't making but I have not confirmed that yet.

It is still having a strange intermittent problem when you put coins in. About 75% of the time it seems to work correctly The pay lines and pay out lights all coincide with the coins in. But occasionally it will not acknowledge the second coin and will only light up the second coin in light when you put a third coin in. The wierd thing is on the next play it will only allow two coins in and lights up all three pay lines after the second coin.

Definitely making progress and the wife has been playing it which makes it hard to work on. The door is a little weird closing so I will have to make some adjustments so it fits better and makes the switch more consistently.

Going for more meatloaf so I'm done for the evening

kb8yrw · « **Reply #15 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:03:37 PM »

Didn't have much time today to mess around with the machine today. In the little time I did I found the relay in the hopper has an open coil. Then I noticed the relay was 48vdc not 48vac like the others in the machine. I don't see any source for DC so is this the wrong relay? Any good sources for replacements?

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:24:48 PM »

Quote from: kb8yrw on January 07, 2015, 08:03:37 PM

Didn't have much time today to mess around with the machine today. In the little time I did I found the relay in the hopper has an open coil. Then I noticed the relay was 48vdc not 48vac like the others in the machine. I don't see any source for DC so is this the wrong relay? Any good sources for replacements?

You might want to post a picture of the realy coil and any numbers on it.

kb8yrw · « **Reply #17 on:** January 08, 2015, 11:53:38 AM »

Here are the pics of the relay I took out of the hopper. It is a 48V DC relay. The other relays in the machine are all AC relays.

Amechanic · « **Reply #18 on:** January 08, 2015, 12:43:11 PM »

I know that they have two different relays, but I don't remember if the difference was voltage or AC/ DC? Donner would know.. I have a spare hopper in my shed but its too cold to go check it with our temp at only 6 with a wind chill of -15 to -20

OldReno · « **Reply #19 on:** January 08, 2015, 02:45:55 PM »

I don't know, guys, but I think the delay relay (safety timer controller) uses DC as it has diodes in the circuitry, and also it is possible that some safety relays are DC too. But I don't really understand the difference.
Perhaps OpBell can chime in and give us some good theory on this...

But try to replace like with like whenever possible.
Also, look to see what happens to the machine when the relay is out of circuit, that may help us all understand what's going on.

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Author Topic: Bally 1115-5 questions (Read 17814 times)