Author Topic: Bally Monte Carlo with some problems. (Read 26394 times)

Sloth · « **Reply #40 on:** January 27, 2015, 04:54:42 AM »

Sendt you a pm.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #41 on:** January 27, 2015, 06:01:35 AM »

Here is a C28-1100 coil in this assortment of EM coils for $7. Not sure what the difference between C & J prefix would mean.?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-EM-5-Assorted-50V-Slot-Machine-Solenoid-Coils-/271755006944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f45dc53e0

Here's another

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Williams-Bally-Pinball-Coil-C-28-1100-/151555085291?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23496313eb

Sloth · « **Reply #42 on:** January 27, 2015, 06:11:13 AM »

Saw that one too but i'm not sure if i can use it.Looks just like the one i need and the part number is also almost the same.

OldReno · « **Reply #43 on:** January 27, 2015, 10:54:19 PM »

You should have a b25 925 on your odds disc. Measure to see if it is the same dimensions....

Jim · « **Reply #44 on:** January 28, 2015, 12:23:26 PM »

I looked in the books that I have, the letter is the physical size of the coil, the 28 is the size of the magnet wire, and the 1100 is the number of turns. the C-28-1100 should work just fine provided there isn't a huge difference in the size.

here are some old Bally numbers that correspond to the coils: new# J-28-1100 old Bally # E-184-236. new# C-28-1100 old Bally # CO-28R-15 the C-28-1100 coil is used on most the count up and reset units, it is used as the reset coil.

Jim

Sloth · « **Reply #45 on:** January 29, 2015, 01:36:45 AM »

Just ordered the c-28-1100 coil from Pinball center EU.The size looks much the same so I'll take a gamble

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #46 on:** January 29, 2015, 05:54:37 AM »

I hope that it works out just fine.

Ra

Sloth · « **Reply #47 on:** February 12, 2015, 12:44:58 PM »

Update:

Reel unit is now washed,lubricated and reassembled.Everything is back where it was and a new coil has been installed

Just going to lubricate the roulette weel and hold buttons before i test it.
Interesting to see if i have solved any of the problems.

Stay tuned for video proof

Amechanic · « **Reply #48 on:** February 12, 2015, 02:12:21 PM »

Excellent Job!! Looks factory fresh. Hopefully it now works as good as it looks...

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #49 on:** February 12, 2015, 02:18:35 PM »

I have minimal experience on the EM's but the wiper arms alignment were the toughest part for me to get working properly. Look at the mass of wires on those contact boards, WOW!!!

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #50 on:** February 12, 2015, 04:32:10 PM »

I am with Amechanic. Congratulations so far. It looks like a brand new reel mech. Now lets see if it actually works. Not that I doubt you of coarse.

Ra

Sloth · « **Reply #51 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:40:31 PM »

Another update:

Started testing the machine now with the reel unit back in place(see video below)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPMPEDzakwU

The weels spin ok but the first weel often stops too soon.Not sure what to adjust there.
The hold button is fixed with the new coil.

The biggest problem now is the payout.It still doesen't pay out on the right side(only if you get 2 cherrys)
I took out the hopper as i wanted to clean it a bit and i removed the plate that register the payout and the spring on the gear behind the plate loosened so after i had put it together the hopper went crazy and it didn't pay out a single coin.
I turned the plate a bit and after that it started to pay out but now it payes out too much if i win so i guess i have to reset the hopper somehow (don't know how to do that)
The biggest mystery is still why it doesen't pay out on the right side.Only for 2 cherrys,not 1 cherry or 3 of a kind.

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #52 on:** February 16, 2015, 04:29:48 PM »

Well cut my legs and call me shorty! You did it! I am impressed. As far as your quick stopping first reel, there is something called a variator in the the reels that might need adjusting. Remove the reels and work the action manually. It is a few links with teeth that slide along each other. I also had a strange circumstance where the clock weld had failed. The first reel would index almost immediately. It was very hard to find because the clock did spin but slipped on its shaft. There is also and adjustment of the right side of the reel bundle that can cause early indexing but I forgot if it is the trip lever or the spring mechanism. I am getting old and the mind is mush. I know one of the experts can narrow it down for you.

Ra

Sloth · « **Reply #53 on:** February 17, 2015, 12:54:46 AM »

Thanks Ra.

Hope i can get this fully working again

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #54 on:** February 17, 2015, 05:09:14 AM »

After you got those reels back together you have made a believer out of me! I am sure that you will be 100% soon.

Ra

Sloth · « **Reply #55 on:** February 18, 2015, 01:00:41 PM »

Still can't get the hopper to pay out correctly after i loosened the green plate and spring when i cleaned it.
I have the "owner's pictorial guide" and i read the tips here on NLG about resetting the hopper but I'm still not certain how to set it right.Guess the plate has to be in a certain position in order to pay out the right amount.
Here's some pictures of the hopper.

Sloth · « **Reply #56 on:** February 18, 2015, 01:02:57 PM »

One more picture.

The Fatman · « **Reply #57 on:** February 18, 2015, 01:27:12 PM »

Can you provide a zoom in pic of the zero switch(s) on the front of the green sprial. Looks like the switches might not be closed at the proper time. I have some ideas but dont want to guess. It is importaint that they open and close (make and break)correctly and they make good contact when they do.
Dave F

Sloth · « **Reply #58 on:** February 18, 2015, 01:44:25 PM »

Thanks.Here's some more pictures.

Jim · « **Reply #59 on:** February 18, 2015, 02:34:56 PM »

your zero stop switch rubber dampener looks pretty beat up, not many resets left in it. that will have to be manufactured to get any consistency out of it. Typically, when the unit is reset, it is reset to a pad that is marked "0", usually at the six o'clock position on the payout disc panel. then you can manually step the wiper fingers off the zero spot to a count where the wipers will no longer be on any pads. when the unit is reset to zero, the zero switch is open, as soon as the unit begins to count, the zero switch will close and remain closed for the remainder of the count. you can step this and reset it out of the machine so you could observe what is happening, the top coil behind the disc is the step up coil and the coil on the bottom is the reset coil.

many people will use a pink eraser to fashion a new zero switch stop dampener. the material usually sticks out around 1/8 inch beyond the metal enclosure, this will allow for adjustment and proper positioning of the wiper fingers when they are reset.

Hope this helps

Jim

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Author Topic: Bally Monte Carlo with some problems. (Read 26394 times)