Missing MFG label plate

[Deadbus]

Hello gang, been a while since I was in the forums.  Need some help to identify my new machine.  I recently bought a Bally Super Continental, but the MFG label plate is missing.  I contacted the person I bought it from and their response was, "It's missing???"  Is there anywhere else that the serial number and model# are on the machine?  The reason I want it, is to get a set of schematics, but I need the complete model number.


Many thanks!

[CVslots]

Look on the reel shelf, reel mech, floor of machine (inside of the door), or engraved in the door itself. You'll find some clues...

[Amechanic]

I have a book somewhere that has the model numbers, but I agree that usually on the front of the reels, or check the whole inside.. I've found then in pencil, or grease pencil written on the insides. Check for any wiring tags, even in the top box..

Gary

[TheAirBalancer]

Here's a thread from the old NLG site. Perhaps you have an 847 model? Looks like some good info in the thread and on page 5 there appears to be a large list of manuals and schematics;

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?PHPSESSID=988d893d778b663eaf77ced1f04ed9a4&topic=25121.0

[dhellis]

I believe that this is a Bally 891 Super Continental. Made in 1970.

A good manual for this would be the Bally E/M Slot Machine Manual for the Continentals and the Super Continental Machines, Manual # 1100

That manual covers the Continental models 883, 889, 891, 892 and 902

[Amechanic]

dhellis is correct, that's the model 891 and it should have a credit feature. I don't remember how to set it up, or turn it off and on, but it has something to do with the button on the right side of the cabinet. I think there is a second key also on the right side that was used to turn it on or off? Your original Continental is the 847 model.

Gary

[Deadbus]

Thank you! I checked the door, floor, reel mech, and reel deck and nothing.  I did however find a "83" written in marker on the handle lockout assembly.  I am going to look in the top section tomorrow.  Thanks for the clues.On a separate note, since taking out the hopper and reel mech, I seem to have allowed the Gremlins gods to play havoc with my machine.  Now it no longer recognizes a "win" to payout.  I've reseated everything several times, even cleaned and verified all the solenoids work.    
I need to put some chicken bones and a green Army man in there (worked in the Navy).

[rokgpsman]

A lot of states only legally permit slot machines for home use if they are older than 25 or 30 years, or something like that, different states have different laws. So some worried owners with machines newer than what their state allows will remove the id plate in order to make it harder for someone to know the age of the machine.

[The Fatman]

Check the zero switch on the hopper in front of the spiral disk. It needs to make good contact when closed. First thing I check ...now..... thanks OldReno
Dave

[Deadbus]

Finally found the complete model number.  It is a 891-18.  I still can't it to pay on wins, though.  Tested each coil (multimeter), verified all the limit switches work correctly, checked the zero stop.  Bloody weird, all I did was remove the reel mech and hopper to look for the serial number (still haven't found that).  Hmmm.

[The Fatman]

Continentals can be a rough machine when it comes to payouts. It can make you do this ... How this machine differs from the earlier slots is that the regular slots simly do a payout with the spiral disk and the wiper arms controlling the amount, on the hopper. The Continental, since it is a 6 coin machine, pays out the amount of coin for a single coin and resets the hopper and pays out the next coin and resets and does it again until the amount of coins played times the payout has been satisfied. For example, if you play 6 coins and hit 2 cherrys, it will pay 5 coins and reset and pay 5 more, and continue this until 30 coins have been payed out. There is a unit behind the back top glass that is motor driven and this controlls that payout. Very touchy mech and if adjusted, has to be done correctly. I would advise first a very good contact cleaner spray and a business card to clean the contacts. Dont ever file most of the switches in a machine. Also check the connectors to make sure there is no corrocion. Thats the best way to start that I can try to help you with.
Dave F

[OldReno]

Try pulling gently on your carriage frame (part #21 picture #1 page #112) in your free downloadeable Bally EM Manual.  Often by doing that you may be able to start the pay.
Your wiper fingers should always be at the 6 oclock position after the payboard has reset.  That means after you pull the handle, and pull out the hopper, you should see those fingers at 6 (which is actually the ZERO position of the payboard).
I always check the payboard fingers when I have a bad pay or no payout.  If they're not at zero, then the payboard did not reset.
Oh, and your winner paid light will stay on, too....

[Deadbus]

Just wanted to let everyone know that I found the problem.  Apparently when I pulled out the hopper, a wire attached itself to my sleeve and broke away from it's home.  Took forever to find, but she breathes again, now a new issue has popped up, but I'll troubleshoot it later.  Thanks again!