Author Topic: Need someone to hold my hand - crash course in the PE+ (Read 6112 times)

knagl · « **Reply #20 on:** December 09, 2018, 10:42:38 PM »

Quote from: Badbaud on December 09, 2018, 07:26:23 PM

I'll see if I can find any that didn't hit the bin.

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #21 on:** December 10, 2018, 05:27:11 PM »

in the middle of taking apart everything, basically refurbishing it, removing surface rust, dirt and my biggest issue right now before I start dealing with posting and electrical is button and stuff, few of them buttons just crumbled. Up to 4 of them now... I saw a full set for $28 but only need a few, lol May need to end up getting the whole set since buying just one on ebay seems to be like $10

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #22 on:** December 10, 2018, 05:32:00 PM »

Before the scrub

After the Scrub

still lots of crud to go

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #23 on:** December 10, 2018, 05:39:42 PM »

tore these apart...

Can I assume they dont sell just these white parts lol

Badbaud · « **Reply #24 on:** December 10, 2018, 06:59:23 PM »

We sell a medium size priority box of those size buttons and button parts for $20 on our website.
Soak and clean your button parts in Dawn soap, it strengthens and revitalizes the plastic, not just for oily ducks any more.

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #25 on:** December 10, 2018, 08:40:34 PM »

yea I remember that, used Soda water to clean off the sticky stuff first

I will see if I can find the site

Badbaud · « **Reply #26 on:** December 10, 2018, 09:26:05 PM »

www.slotmachinerepair.com see product under Specialty Items.

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #27 on:** December 11, 2018, 01:58:16 AM »

the small button box is $40 not $20, I will save the link and when I finish going thru the entire thing I will make a list...

Badbaud · « **Reply #28 on:** December 11, 2018, 06:15:12 AM »

Ya, the large switch button box is $20

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #29 on:** December 17, 2018, 03:10:06 PM »

i have a few buttons not working and it is not the switch or wire, and I am sure not the plug, could it be a bad board or the backboard the main board plugs into, also no power to the bulbs on the buttons, I swapped boards but still not figured out how to clear the low battery warning to get that to work, even tho I replaced the battery

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #30 on:** December 17, 2018, 04:05:57 PM »

found the pad lifted so I hope that is the battery issue

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #31 on:** December 17, 2018, 08:26:58 PM »

turned out to be a bad button...

So I have one issue, the harness plugs for the door are a little intermittent, have a way to clean the connector up? it I think has a coating of nicotine/tar

jay · « **Reply #32 on:** December 18, 2018, 01:49:37 AM »

A spray can of Contact cleaner is good. With Radio Shack mostly extinct its not exactly a common item on store shelves unless you have an electronics store close by.
White rubber erasers do a good job on contacts to clean them up - albiet you may find that they are a tad big for some jobs. I have sliced them thin and superglued to an emery board to get into the little places.
For edge connectors Mr. Clean on a QTIP works wonders followed by a dry qtip to clean off the residue.

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #33 on:** December 18, 2018, 10:27:34 AM »

OMG I forgot I had that radio shack... stuff laying around, few good years old, but use to use it in my old Ham Radio days... thanks for the heads up reminder... I will give it a spray in all the connectors

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #34 on:** December 19, 2018, 05:39:58 PM »

I was considering making a coin in button where the attendant button is and remove the switch in the cash out so my grandma wont hit it, any issues I should consider? Also, on the second machine I am seeing corrupted graphics, I will take some pictures when I work on it, can I just clear the CMOS and see if it will fix it? or is it maybe corrupted game IC roms, lucky it is not the multi game system with the issues... it is the system I had the Battery issue with so I am hoping that is why... and can just be reset, I dont have a Field manual, for some reason every site feels the need to get paid for them to know the reset procedure.

Oh was able with 2 coupons get 20 buttons ordered for $20 new off Aliexpress and I asked for the 5 volt LEDs and not the 12v LEDs I hope I didn't goof there but I was sure it was 6v bulbs

Amechanic · « **Reply #35 on:** December 19, 2018, 05:47:22 PM »

If your see corrupt graphics you might want to try cleaning the legs on the socketed ICâ€™s on that board. If that doesnâ€™t fix the problem, then I would try cleaning the edge connector if the MPU, or lastly reflow the solder joints on the socketed ICâ€™s.

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #36 on:** December 20, 2018, 02:51:59 PM »

got a issue, while Machine #1 is still not working my #2 is almost up and going 100%

I wanted to test parts on PC 1 one at a time to see what is broken, now The Very first part I got to was a CC...

Here is a PIC of both, the one on the right works and the one on the left does not, not sure if it is because both are correct and one is bad, or it is both machines use a different voltage or
if someone swapped or replaced the 13v version with a 24v or vice versa...

Did IGT have PE+ Machines with 24v? I am fairly sure the 24V is what is bad with the Red LED, but not sure

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #37 on:** December 20, 2018, 03:15:23 PM »

Never mind, I guess they are both 24v according to a pic I found... still leaves the question why 1 works and one does not since this was not why the Machine ( according to the former owner ) working...

any test diagrams for me to look at for this?

Amechanic · « **Reply #38 on:** December 20, 2018, 03:15:33 PM »

Itâ€™s possible that the large grey capacitor is bad on the left board. They both are the 24V style comparitor. You can tell by the great wires going to the rake coil on the back. The 13V ones have green wires.

EliteGeeks · « **Reply #39 on:** December 20, 2018, 10:05:56 PM »

Problems deepen with the CC... so I Swapped the boards and then Left one, that did not work as soon as I use the Diverter and Sensor it would start to chatter as soon as I plugged it in, and int one on the right would not work when I used the sensors from the old one, so IF I can fix the Board on the Left ( Red LED, I still need a sensor and a Diverter coil.

at this point not sure if it is worth working on or replacing

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Author Topic: Need someone to hold my hand - crash course in the PE+ (Read 6112 times)