PE buttons & monitor questions

[RobinAK]

Howdy. Okay so the PE machine I just got needs a couple buttons. I see a button set for the PE+ on spin. Are they the same as the ones for the PE machine? They look the same. Not sure though.
Monitor.. No blue. I saw proper colors for just a few seconds on a cold start up. Then back to no blue. Works okay other than that. Just wondering if there is anything I may be able to do. Ive pulled it out and looked around reseated the ribbon cables. No luck. I'm leaning towards the LCD. But once again shipping is sky high for AK. I see spin also shows the monitor but they only list it for the PE+. I called and they had no idea if it fits in the PE. I assume it will as on Ceronix site it listed it for both the PE and PE+. Spin says shipping is half that than getting it straight from Ceronix. So its about a 100.00 less to get it from spin. Also somewhere I saw that monitor was available in two different viewing angles. CPA3003 & 3004. Which is better?
Once again THANKS!!Rob

[Trisail]

The microswitches are the same.
The monitor probably needs a transistor replaced for the blue color.  If you can solder and work on the printed circuit board (PCB) you can fix  the crt.

I have the parts to fix the crt and the microswitches. PM me if you are interested or just want to ask questions or get information.

Tony

[RobinAK]

Okay so I found an issue. I assume it is related to no blue. Something kept telling me to keep looking and hold off on the monitor replacement. Seeing the colors correct for a few seconds on a cold start kept telling me to keep looking. And well I found a issue on the MPU board. Looks like transistor Q6 is burned out. It also looks like one end of resistor R19 got hot. But I think its is okay. One thing is the machine is playing fine. Just the color issue. Here is pics. So I feel comfortable replacing it but I have no idea how to get the correct replacement. PCB repair is not a normal thing for me. But I can solder just fine. I was also wondering if something else may be root cause of this transistor failure?
Okay so my research came up with Q6 is a triac gated 200v 1amp #48201790 per the IGT manual on here. I think I found a replacement on e bay when just looking around real quick... its listed as "littlefuse L201E3 triac Sens Gate 200v 1a T092.
would this be correct?

[Trisail]

Excellent work. But -

The Q6 transistor is not for the blue of the video circuit. It is for the cashout light.  Q16 on the PE MPU board is for the blue color circuit.

The blue color problem, I believe is with the CRT board, mounted under the CRT tube in the monitor chassis.  I am assuming you have a Ceronix 1492 CRT monitor.

Here are some print pictures you can check out.

EDIT - The triac would be a good replacement and would work for the circuit. If you can read the number off the other 3 near that one they would be the same device. Any 200V and up 1A and up triac would work. Cost of the one on eBay is a bit much, but you only need one, I prefer purchasing in quantity. I have some 400V 4A T410-400D I purchased a while back for another project, I also have the CRT parts for the color circuit and the micro switches you were asking about. I'm in AZ and a USPS flat rate box could probably be shipped to AK, I don't charge much for parts I already have in hand    If you want the direct replacement I can pull a Q6 off my board and send, I would put the T410-400D in it's place. 
I will PM you.

Tony.

I will PM you.

[RobinAK]

Well dang it... I thought I had it lol. That was the one thing I yet to do was figure out what Q6 was for lol. Also funny thing is the cash out button cap is gone, no bulb and the micro switch is removed form the button but the switch is connected & works. I wonder if that broken cap, missing bulb was a factor.. something shorting the bulb socket maybe. OK well its late.. I'm tired.. and I am going to drink some beer for the night. Thanks for all you help. Hopefully I can get this machine all fixed up soon.

[Jim]

I might have a Ceronix repaired chassis available, takes about ten minutes to swap out,  MOST IMPORTANT PART IS TO SHORT OUT THE HIGH VOLTAGE LEAD BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO UNHOOK IT.  use a long screwdriver with a wire attached to it and the other end attached to the metal chassis of the unit. stick the end of the screwdriver up under the grey part of the connector and touch the end of it to the red wire, do this holding the screwdrivers plastic or wooden handle.  once you have done this, unhook it, disconnect the three plugs, you may undo the two screws holding the chassis to the frame, ( you might take a few pictures of how everything is connected and positioned)  carefully pull the circuit board from the end of the CRT ( noticed it is notched, only goes on one way) pull the wire off the pin on that board, ( it attaches to the wire going around the CRT tube).

Jim   

[RobinAK]

Hey guys sorry it took me so long to get back here. So I don't know how deep I wanna go with this. I thought at first a quick replacement of Q6 would be doable. I am automotive tech by trade and I do a lot of diagnostics even with the usage of oscilloscopes but with the monitor and PCB repair I don't know. Here is pic of screen. Only see red. No blue or green. Only saw correct color once on cold start up for a few seconds. Leaning towards the complete board you have Jim. Wanna PM me cost to 99503. Interested in exchange? With shipping not sure if its worth it.       

[RobinAK]

Well i figured I'd post an update. As far as the monitor goes. After doing some research & getting help from members here I decided to recap the monitor myself. Everything worked out great! My monitor is now repaired! I learned a lot, saved a bunch of money, acquired some much needed soldering tools, and more importantly made some new friends in the process!
I got new buttons ordered up and I am moving on to getting the machine all cleaned up.
 
 Robert

[knagl]

Hey, congrats, nice job.