IGT Multi Poker Slant Help

[alrolon800]

Just got a IGT slant Multi poker game. First I changed Battery. It was dead, dead, dead. Is there a clear or reset chip that needs to be reprogrammed.  It now dings when i press the white test button. Monitor is burnt out. I checked and tried rejuvinating with my BK480 and no luck. it is so dim and burnt/in im going to go the LCD route. need to identify board and what reset functions i may be missing.  this is just a prelude to me getting the crt to lcd converter.  thanks.  and if i am in the wrong in the placement of this post please let me know

[Trisail]

Sounds like it will come back to life. You need to get the crt working, it displays the screens you will need to see to get the machine working. It should be a Ceronix 1492 crt. If you replace the aluminum Electrolytic capacitors on the board there is a real good chance it will work. You can wait and install an lcd if you like. You will need a set chip to enable the bill validator (set004 chip should be the one you will need, check with RB here on the site when you are ready for one) If you can replace the caps in the crt you should be able to get it working to play it and see what you think, lcd is nice but a bit pricey in my opinion, worth it if you are going to keep it. I have some information on power supplies in the welcome area of the forum. I put a picture in there with the 1492 caps, values.

Tony

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=31351.0

[alrolon800]

well I appreciate your timely response. first im going to put an lcd display in there because I have several small ones and just wanted to make sure machine works before i put any real money into it. Already ordered crt/lcd converter and a power supply which will come in tomorrow. I have a set denomination/bill validator  chip for all of my S+ machines. they all have the dbv-200 validators as does this poker machine even the coin comparitor is the same one. 2 buttons are broken but that is the least problem. it is in superb shape and im looking forward to adding it to my collection.  is there a reset ram chip necessary for this board. Also, what board designation does this slant machine have in it?  thanks.

[alrolon800]

And im confused as far as board designation? is it a PE or PE+. thanks again.

[Trisail]

Without pictures of machine or board I can only go on what your post says.
Not sure at the moment if S+ set chip is the 004 you will need for the PE+, I haven't used, or seen a clear chip for the PE's.
I'm not the expert on these machines but have worked on some. As far as I know this information is correct, others can post if incorrect. 
PE+ has a bill validator usually, 'most' PE don't. PE+ with superboard will play 5 games or more with extra mod, PE will play one poker game.
If you have a 'multi' poker machine you should have a board that has 5 games on it. A menu will display on the screen to select each poker game.
I saw recently in a post the crt is CGA. I haven't verified. I don't see this information mentioned a lot, Ceronix website doesn't say much either.

A lot of this information is in the forums already.  I recommend to go through all the posts here, you will pick up a ton of good information. I found by doing that I usually got what I needed and posted when I got confused or ran across something strange, like the 'only get to 1st 2 screens in test' thing yesterday LOL.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=67.0

Tony

[alrolon800]

thank you so much tony.  I bought set and clear chips for my S+ a few years back and they just say set or clear on them.  no version found on them. just need to know if set validator is in fact a 004. i have the pe+ and the 5 game board. found as per your suggestion of going thru the site. I had to search for pe+ to get anywhere. I have the bill validator in it and an extra one if i need it. Just doing pre setup till i get that monitor going. bill validator does its whining when i power on but wont take a bill just yet. coin validator just drops coins to the return slot.  and yes like my S+ i know it wont work if door is open or door sensor is bad. video conversion board is coming thru amazon tomorrow. I guess there is no resetting the ram for this unit.  thanks,  Albert

[DarrenF]

I saw recently in a post the crt is CGA. I haven't verified. I don't see this information mentioned a lot, Ceronix website doesn't say much either.

Well, it's not exactly CGA.  CGA is an early-era PC term.  CGA video was strictly digital (with RGB and I, intensity; all digital TTL signals).  In the computer world (after monochrome), there was CGA, then EGA, then VGA (the SVGA etc).

So, in computer parlance, it's most similar to CGA (vice EGA or VGA).  But an early 80s, actual honest-to-god "CGA monitor" may not work properly, as it may not deal well with the analog color signals of a PE+.

In the arcade world there was "standard" resolution, "medium" resolution and then it kind of converged with the PC's VGA resolution.

The common thread is the horizontal frequency.  Standard resolution and CGA (and the Cerontix 1492) were 15.7kHz horizontal frequency.  You'll need a monitor that can handle a 15 kHz video signal.  Some "multi-sync" monitor can do this, as well a ones designed only for that frequency, and of course there are converter boards.

[alrolon800]

So what do i do now??  2 of the members here swear i should fix the monitor and it's  board. monitor is so badly burned I would never put this machine in my living room.  every post i read is 11 years old or more on this pe+ concerning my video problem. then my post was sent to a board i could never find easily.  this machine is a slot machine!!! coin, bill, buttons and bulbs are all the same as my igt double diamond, wild cherry, triple cherry and five times slot machines. I got more answers to my questions on my regular igt S and S-plus board.  just tell me that unless im willing to pay 400 bucks to cetronix to get an lcd monitor to fix this machine I paid 50 bucks for that  I should just trash this beautiful machine and start on a different project. I am a 30 tv tech who had a stroke 7 years ago and forced into retirement. I was the best in my game. had loyal clientele in NYC and not happy staying at home collecting SS and doing nothing 
  Again, I believe someone has solved this color inversion problem.  I have the cga to lcd converter already.   Al Rolon

[Jim]

Yes, they solved the color issue, the signal had to be inverted, so they ran the output through a 7400 inverter chip.   there are posts and pictures of this either on this site or the old site.  a couple different ways were shown!

Jim

[DarrenF]

So what do i do now??  2 of the members here swear i should fix the monitor and it's  board. monitor is so badly burned I would never put this machine in my living room.  every post i read is 11 years old or more on this pe+ concerning my video problem. then my post was sent to a board i could never find easily.  this machine is a slot machine!!! coin, bill, buttons and bulbs are all the same as my igt double diamond, wild cherry, triple cherry and five times slot machines. I got more answers to my questions on my regular igt S and S-plus board.  just tell me that unless im willing to pay 400 bucks to cetronix to get an lcd monitor to fix this machine I paid 50 bucks for that  I should just trash this beautiful machine and start on a different project. I am a 30 tv tech who had a stroke 7 years ago and forced into retirement. I was the best in my game. had loyal clientele in NYC and not happy staying at home collecting SS and doing nothing 
  Again, I believe someone has solved this color inversion problem.  I have the cga to lcd converter already.   Al Rolon

Hi Al.

I'm not a moderator, or even a long-time member here.  But I'll take a stab at some of your questions.

- If you have no interest in repairing the CRT monitor (likely a 1990s Ceronix model 1492) in your machine, and have decided to put in an LCD monitor--so be it.  Sounds good to me.  I understand there is a "self-service" LCD option, building your own wiring adapters, mount, etc.  There's a thread sticky-d in this forum about it.  (I haven't done it myself, I'm working on repairing my Ceronix 1492.)  There's also a $400ish ready-to-go "drop-in" option I've heard about, and apparently so have you.  Here's a link to the thread:  https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=336.0

- The moderators at this site apparently make a clear distinction between the "reel" (actual or simulated) slot machines, and "video poker" (and video blackjack, and keno) machines, and have separate forums for each category of machine.  As you've noticed, IGT's 90s-era slot machines (e.g. the "S+") and their 90s-ear video poker machines (like the "PE+") are very similar, sharing many components, even sharing some manuals.  Nonetheless, this website keeps separate forums for each (and separate forums for major components such as monitors, coin compactors, bill validators).  That's just the way they do things.  It's their forum, not mine.  And yes, things are much more active in the IGT "Reel" (S/S+ slot) forums than they are here in the quiet/slow VP (PE/PE+) forum.  Just like in most casinos, there are many more slots than VP machines, same seems to go with private owners. 

- It seems to me, from reading here, that many of the users are very visual people.  Taking and posting some photos of your machine, CPU board, monitor, converter, and/or problems would likely help enlist more helpers here to your cause.

- As far as what to do now... no idea.  It's not entirely clear to me what your current situation and problem is.  You said you got a video converter to hook the board up to an LCD monitor.  How'd that work out?  Did you get any video output at all?  What brand/model converter are you using? 

Regards,
Darren

[alrolon800]

Thanks for the reply Darren, My monitor is an Orion, m34kzm40xx80. it looks like a 13 in but could be 14. if measured diagonally from mounting bolts it would be 15". guns burnt to a crisp, so is screen. If i could get a used monitor i would go that way since i have two working BK rejuvinators on hand. have not tried converter yet because of all the fail stories ive read.  im getting ready to remove board and tube to try my hand at it. i have a few lcd's to use as a test and bought a game power supply to get my 5 volts to the converter and can use the 12 volts to power the lcd monitor. I will post pics but my iphone resolution is too high and must email them to myself first which enables me to lower resolution. my machine is the pe+ Multi/Poker slant (5 game) with the bill validator. if i have to change ic's on the gameboard ie: 74ls86 or whatever to change the color inversion process i am proficient at it. But in my research i am getting just bits and pieces of what to do...  I can't believe no one has locked this down to a simple solution.   Albert

[DarrenF]

Thanks for the reply Darren, My monitor is an Orion, m34kzm40xx80. it looks like a 13 in but could be 14. if measured diagonally from mounting bolts it would be 15". guns burnt to a crisp, so is screen. If i could get a used monitor i would go that way since i have two working BK rejuvinators on hand.

Al:  Your CRT is an Orion M34KWM40XX80.  Orion made tubes, not full monitors.  Maybe look on the back of the metal frame that holes the CRT and the monitor chassis for a make and model.  Otherwise, please post a photo (perhaps in the monitor forum) for people to positively identify it (if you care to identify it).  For example, here's a photo of the monitor out of my IGT Slant-top PE+ VP machine; https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=32147.0;attach=95644;image

have not tried converter yet because of all the fail stories ive read.  im getting ready to remove board and tube to try my hand at it. i have a few lcd's to use as a test and bought a game power supply to get my 5 volts to the converter and can use the 12 volts to power the lcd monitor.

OK.  Sounds good.

  I will post pics but my iphone resolution is too high and must email them to myself first which enables me to lower resolution.

Yeah, I hear you.  This forum (like many) limits the file size of attachments pretty low.  I use a computer (you remember laptops?) to post to the forum.  I take my photos with a camera, a 10+ year old point-and-shoot type, take the SD card out, put it into my laptop, open the photo with MS Paint, resize it down to, say 1200x900, save it, then attach that.  So simply emailing them yourself doesn't sound like to big of a hassle.  It's worth it.  A picture is worth more than anyone could type in.

my machine is the pe+ Multi/Poker slant (5 game) with the bill validator. if i have to change ic's on the gameboard ie: 74ls86 or whatever to change the color inversion process i am proficient at it. But in my research i am getting just bits and pieces of what to do...  I can't believe no one has locked this down to a simple solution.   Albert

OK, it sounds like you haven't read the whole thread.  As I understood it, the IC for the color inversion was on a seperate breadboard, not changing an IC on the MPU board.  This thread here, in the sticky section:  https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=336.0  It's like the whole story, with people throwing in ideas and their experiences along the way, as they were figuring it out.  Try going to the 2nd (last) page of the thread and reading the last 5 or 6 posts (including the attachments).  I agree, it does not appear that anyone has taken the time to write up a nice complete "how-to" document, taking into account all of the lessons learned and best-practices.  That would be nice.  Perhaps there's a more recent or updated thread, but I haven't seen it (nor have I really looked for it, as I'm not currently trying to do an LCD conversion), so the last few post in that thread appear to be what we've got. 

Honestly, if you're just looking to use the LCD temporarily, to see if your gameboard works right, you might not need to invert the colors.  You can probably do all that with the colors wrong, and if you decide it's worth it, go ahead and buy the $400 drop-in LCD replacement unit.

[alrolon800]

my board is exactly the same as pic you attached. Im starting to wire up connections for the cga to lcd adapter now. my question for you is if i do buy the cetronix lcd will it just be plug and play or will i need the converter too?? thanks again. will keep you posted.

[DarrenF]

my board is exactly the same as pic you attached. Im starting to wire up connections for the cga to lcd adapter now. my question for you is if i do buy the cetronix lcd will it just be plug and play or will i need the converter too?? thanks again. will keep you posted.

OK, then you have a Ceronix model 1492 model monitor.

If you do buy the Ceronix LCD, I believe it is designed to be plug-and-play; NOT needing a converter (or having one built-in).  HOWEVER, it probably depends on the exact Ceronix LCD you're talking about.  I'm talking about this one:  https://na.suzohapp.com/products/monitors/49-11176-00

If I were about to spend that kind of money, I'd call the vendor (SuzoHapp, or even Ceronix directly) to get some clarification before ordering.  Note, also, that I've never bought or installed one of these.  Perhaps a few people here have bought them.

[alrolon800]

oh yes it will be a while before i spend that kind of money...LOL  will keep you informed.  Al

[jay]

I can confirm that Certonix that you are looking at Suzo is a drop in. It has all the mounts and such.
Just make sure you specify slanttop as they are angled different than an upright.
Secondly when dealing with Suzo make sure you understand the shipping cost.... and if necessary call them up and get it quoted.
I often picture them with a big roulette wheel of shipping costs. They can sell you a $10 part where the box weighs more than the part and they charge $80 shipping, and on a 12lb box the shipping is $8.
it often makes no sense at all. There is probably a whole (amusing) thread on this in the Rants and Raves section of the site.


With that said. Certronix used to have an upgrade program where you send in your old monitor and they shipped you a refurbished one for about $150, and then later they had a trade in program where you sent in your CRT in any condition and they shipped you a LCD for about $200. I am now in Canada and the cross border shipping wasn't included and it was about as much as the monitor so I never too advantage of the program. I am not sure if the program is still active but its worth giving them a call. Its amazing what some of these companies will do for you if you get a real human on the other end.


I will give a shout out to the Ninja blender company. My daughter lost the spout - how where ? anyways I called and they don't sell the part. They only have the whole beverage section. If I had the receipt and it was 5yrs or younger they would have shipped me it free. I told the guy it was likely older than that, and he said the part was $70, shipping was $39 but to help me out he let me have it for $20 delivered to Canada. Anyways best blender I have ever had - turns ice into slush like nothing else I have ever seen.

[alrolon800]

Well wired it all up and have no signal. Set to English and chose all the different outputs. Just so you know its a chinese clone video converter. My connections are as such. red to red, green to green, blue to blue, black to ground, yellow to vertical and brown to horiz. Unless i have the yellow and brown wires backwards i should still get something. all plugged into P11. if not getting any video i would have to check the gameboard. when pressing the self test button i get a nice loud ding.

[DarrenF]

Well wired it all up and have no signal. Set to English and chose all the different outputs. Just so you know its a chinese clone video converter. My connections are as such. red to red, green to green, blue to blue, black to ground, yellow to vertical and brown to horiz. Unless i have the yellow and brown wires backwards i should still get something. all plugged into P11. if not getting any video i would have to check the gameboard. when pressing the self test button i get a nice loud ding.

Any way to wire it up to a known-good similar video signal source (like maybe another IGT slot or VP machine) and check the convert board's function?
I'm afraid I don't know anything about hooking up those video converters to a VGA LCD monitor, yet (other than what I've read).

[knagl]

if i have to change ic's on the gameboard ie: 74ls86 or whatever to change the color inversion process i am proficient at it. But in my research i am getting just bits and pieces of what to do...  I can't believe no one has locked this down to a simple solution.   Albert

Al,

I just want to make sure you've downloaded and seen the guide that was created by PowderMaker -- reply #19 in the sticky thread here in the PE+ section about making the conversion (click here for a direct link to it).  That Word document has a pretty good step-by-step for someone who is proficient with electronics, as it seems you are.

when pressing the self test button i get a nice loud ding.

That's actually a really good sign -- that indicates that the machine is working -- it's just a matter now of having working video to be able to see what it's doing.

[alrolon800]

Yes i read that post but going to go thru it again. simple logic tells me converter is putting out a good video signal since all menus look good and allows me to make choices. no matter what i choose i get no video at all. even selecting the smallest resolution i should get something even a scrambled pic, back in the day i used to have the color bar generator but thats history.  this converter board had no instructions whatsoever so i've been winging it thru the NLG site's suggestions. (and of course you Great Guys here). maybe if i change input from p11 to p3 I will get something. but i think that connector is set for a synch that combines horiz&vert signals. ie: R,B,G,GND,S. This PE+ motherboard splits hor & vert to 2 separate wires. Someone suggested winding the two wires outputting the Hor&Ver signals together and connecting them to the "S" connector on P3. Crazy Huh!!  But i've seen some crazy stuff in my day...  will get back to you later.