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Author Topic: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?  (Read 884 times)

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Offline styvens

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2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« on: August 23, 2021, 12:20:51 PM »
Be gentle.  This is my first time.

So, I have been in the business of rehabbing/rebuilding slots since late afternoon, three days ago.  An opportunity presented itself that I couldn't turn down, so I now own 2 IGT Red White & Blue machines.  They were purchased as-is, the owner knew nothing about them other than "one lights up, the other doesn't."  I'm pretty handy with electronical stuff, so I figured I'd give it a shot.

From what I've gathered, and thank you to the gentleman on the phone from NLG (I didn't catch your name), I have an S and an S+ RWB.  Both are wooden round-top cabinets.  The 3-coin S has a light on top.  I have questions about both, and hopefully some of the answers will apply to both machines.

Series - S - 3-coin
This is the one that would light up.  Power comes on with the main power switch, ballasts fire up all of the florescent tubes, power at the main transformer in the back (unsure of what voltages should be coming off of the 6 connections).  Power to the backplane board (on the left side of the case).  Smaller DC voltages can be found along connections at both the reels and the controls on the door.  They read 11.2v.  There's a red LED on the MPU that (best I can tell) never lights up.  I've had the board out, and no obvious burn marks anywhere, and it doesn't smell like it let out the magic smoke.  Depending on which picture I go by from Google, there's a chip on the MPU that I may be missing.  The Sound, CMOS, Game, and Reel chips are on the board, but there is another socket not in line with those that is empty.  Some pics have it installed, others don't.  This one has no bill validator, and only one small speaker at the bottom above the coin tray.  Board part # - 7550570

- What is this socket used for?
- Do I need it for this machine?
- Is there a way to test this board, other than "plug it in and pray"?

I'm sure there will be follow-up questions to any response on these.


Series S+ - 2-Coin w/ Progressive
This one is missing the entire board (explains why it didn't work).  Power situation is identical to the other one.  After some testing and checking connections, the PSU fired up and lit up all the lights.  The MPU is on the back wall of the case on this one, and it has a bill validator.  For this one:

- Does this machine take the same MPU as the machine above, but with a different game chip/software?
- If the above is "yes", would I be able to swap a single board back and forth between the two (even if it's not the right game), to test the functionality of the components (reels, buttons, coin comparator, etc.)?


Generic questions about these
- Are there any know quirks or issues that I should be on the lookout for so I don't inadvertently break something else as I'm trying to fix them?
- Are there other points that I could check the voltages on to make sure the power supply/transformers are operating correctly?


If any of this info is incorrect, please let me know.  This is all brand new to me, and I'm looking to learn all I can.  Thanks in advance for any and all help on this!

Offline Trisail

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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2021, 01:47:20 PM »
All good questions.   Welcome to the site.. We are here to help. Start here 1st. Many of the questions you have will be addressed here.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=28444.0

You can post more specific questions when, if you get stumped. Search for specific terms in the S S+ forum and you will get everything there is to know to get your machines running. I will try a couple things here to get you started.

Check the cmos battery for voltage, replace it.
You will need two chips, a clear and a set.
The power harness cable to the motherboard needs checked, replaced.
You shouldn't need the missing chip.
You will have to test/troubleshoot with the board installed. No easy way to bench test much.
You may be able to use the same board in both machines. But we will need confirmation on that from someone else.  If possible, there is an eeprom on the motherboard that stores information that needs attention. Not much but info in forum.
Many known quirks.
Always power down before removing anything or installing. No hot swapping.

Enjoy your slot machines and have fun. A lot of good people here to help with anything you need.

Tony
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline jay

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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2021, 03:57:17 PM »
A IGT S is not an IGT S+  Different boards, different chips.
There are early model S+'s that did not have a bill validator.... but that didn't make them an S.

The pic you published is of an S MPU, as I know that it is not a S+ board.
I don't know much about the S slot, so I can't tell you if the missing chip is required or not.

Any S+ board will do, but you would be best to get a 10mhz board vs 16mhz board.
We have other posts that go in detail on the difference but the 10mhz are more home friendly.
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Offline RB

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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2021, 05:31:14 PM »
A IGT S is not an IGT S+  Different boards, different chips.
There are early model S+'s that did not have a bill validator.... but that didn't make them an S.

The pic you published is of an S MPU, as I know that it is not a S+ board.
I don't know much about the S slot, so I can't tell you if the missing chip is required or not.

Any S+ board will do, but you would be best to get a 10mhz board vs 16mhz board.
We have other posts that go in detail on the difference but the 10mhz are more home friendly.


75505700 is a 10mhz S plus MPU.  Game prom, Reel prom. Why do you think it is an S board?  :Scratch-Head:
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Offline styvens

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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2021, 07:07:35 PM »
RB, I called it an S board only because that was the machine that it was in when I got it.  I was young and uneducated at the time (earlier today), and Trisail got me pointed in the right direction (thank you!).  I've been reading almost nonstop for the last several hours, only stopping to take a multimeter to connectors and pins.

I've narrowed it down some based on the threads I've read thus far. The majority of them concern error codes, and I would LOVE to get to that point. Using the topics for the S+, I started checking power from the PSU to the back plane. Power goes in, the connectors feeding from the back plane have power coming out, but the MPU does nothing. Reel steppers don't twitch, coin comparator doesn't light up, nothing. I already have a new battery ordered, but it should still do something.

Knowing that this is the 10hz S+ board, I could, on theory, remove it from the case and try it in the other machine, correct?  Doing so could potentially rule out/identify if it's a bad board, power issue, or other gremlin.

I also know now that this thread is in the wrong place. How does one go about moving it over under the IGT section?  If I can save someone any future headaches, I certainly want to go that route.

Lastly, RB, I noticed the Razorback and got curious, so i did a little stalking. Kinda rare to see someone listing the Ozarks as their home.  I'm in Florida, but there's a good chance these machines are going to end up in my hometown at my parents' place in Ozark County, MO.




Offline RB

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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2021, 07:24:33 PM »
My post was more directed at Jay's quote because he should know better. Yes I'm in north central AR but I bet you guessed that too if you saw my avatar. Usually when a S Plus machine has power issues it's related to the harness from the power supply to the MB especially if the reels do not stiffen or display doesn't work when powered on, The early S plus you have with no BV has a different power supply than the most common models. PM me your email address.

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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2021, 07:53:44 PM »
Your right - I do know better
- only read that it came out of an S and saw the color of the board and replied.
On a real computer now.
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Re: 2x RWB machines - Which boards/chips should I be looking for?
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2021, 08:40:56 PM »
RB, I called it an S board only because that was the machine that it was in when I got it.  I was young and uneducated at the time (earlier today), and Trisail got me pointed in the right direction (thank you!).  I've been reading almost nonstop for the last several hours, only stopping to take a multimeter to connectors and pins.

I've narrowed it down some based on the threads I've read thus far. The majority of them concern error codes, and I would LOVE to get to that point. Using the topics for the S+, I started checking power from the PSU to the back plane. Power goes in, the connectors feeding from the back plane have power coming out, but the MPU does nothing. Reel steppers don't twitch, coin comparator doesn't light up, nothing. I already have a new battery ordered, but it should still do something.


        No  reel stepper twitch - you have a power problem. The reels should be stiff/bumpy on power up. Check this real resent thread - by 'playing' with the connector in question he got power to the reels. He is having a 61 error.  http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=33480.msg177346#msg177346
12th post   TONY


Quote
Knowing that this is the 10hz S+ board, I could, on theory, remove it from the case and try it in the other machine, correct?  Doing so could potentially rule out/identify if it's a bad board, power issue, or other gremlin.


        If the motherboards look the same you could try the MPU board in the one that is missing. Post pictures of the insides of each machine. Not knowing why the MPU board is missing - I would assume the board was bad and maybe the problem that caused that is still 'active'. Maybe try to get the one up 1st then take a chance on the unknown one. You will need to get another board anyway - but maybe you might want to do a lot of tear down and look for obvious problems 1st. You may have already read about 'stuff' shorting out voltages - under motherboard, cables, bare wires ETC. ( Maybe it just needs a board and be relatively OK. Maybe not - and you have a chance to get the one machine maybe up and working. Kind of a catch 22 - rock and a hard place - maybe I'm over thinking it. I do that a lot )    TONY

Quote
I also know now that this thread is in the wrong place. How does one go about moving it over under the IGT section?  If I can save someone any future headaches, I certainly want to go that route.



       One of the moderators will see this and will probably move it.   TONY



Quote
Lastly, RB, I noticed the Razorback and got curious, so i did a little stalking. Kinda rare to see someone listing the Ozarks as their home.  I'm in Florida, but there's a good chance these machines are going to end up in my hometown at my parents' place in Ozark County, MO.


Not quite doing the quote thing right - I put some comments in above.
Tony

Fixed the quote situation and moved this thread to the IGT S+ section. -knagl
« Last Edit: October 20, 2021, 11:49:53 PM by knagl »
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

 

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