igt s+ code 41

[Fredsan]

If you put another board in the bad machine and don't get the same 41 error your original board gives you, the problem is on the processor board, (if you actually have a problem).


It's been my experience that you don't need a clear chip, you can simply short out the battery for a few seconds, (although I wouldn't do that too often, as it shortens battery life), or you can just remove the CMOS chip for a few seconds and then reinstall it. Be careful not to bend any pins, and also to put it in the correct way.

[Badbaud]

I like to cut the battery trace and put in a 2 pin PC jumper header.

Remove the jumper and the RAM is disconnected from the battery.

Mostly used to keep the battery on a stock board from discharging if it sits on a shelf for a length of time.

The Tantilum cap next to the RAM chip can be discharged with a pair of needle nose making the RAM clear (with the battery disconnected of course).

If you have a small drill bit and can drill two holes spaced .1" apart directly through the battery trace you may want to try this solution instead of shorting the battery.

Removing the RAM and setting it on a piece of metal that shorts all of it's pins at once works but the chip must remain on the metal for a couple of minutes.

Not shorting it's pins will result in a RAM full of partial bytes of random bits.

[Fredsan]

The jumper is an excellent idea for extending shelf life. Why didn't I think of that??

[slotmandave]

That is some think I don't know? How do you tell the difference between the 10 and the 16 MHz?  Thanks Dave

[slotmandave]

I took the batteries out of the boards and also took the cmos chip out also for a few min. It still won't get out of the 65 0

When I put the board in the broken machine I can't go past 61 after pressing the test button ,it stays at 61, But if I put it in the working machine 61 comes up and after I press the test button it comes up 61 1 , after that I close the door and hit the reset key and it goes to 65 0 and stays there

[Fredsan]

Let's go back and regroup.  How many processor boards do you have, and do they all have game, reel, and CMOS chips installed?
How many machines do you have access to, and do any of the boards work in any of the machines? Have you removed the eproms and reinstalled them, making sure there are no bent pins? Sorry, but I guess I need to ask... are the proms in the right sockets? The reel proms should be 2764 or equivalents, the game proms should be 27c512.

[CVslots]

That is some think I don't know? How do you tell the difference between the 10 and the 16 MHz?  Thanks Dave

10mhz boards have a little dial (pot) by the black handle for adjusting the volume. 16mhz boards do not have this feature (volume is controlled in the settings).

[knagl]

How do you tell the difference between the 10 and the 16 MHz?

See this FAQ post.

[slotmandave]

OK I assume all the boards not working are 10 MHz, And the over problem is is ,My haywire machine came up with a code 41, I tried to reset ,no go, I switched the reels from 1 to 2 and came up 41 and then flashed 42,  Next I tried aclear chip to the board but can't get past the code 61 on that machine, So I tried it in another working machine a RED, WHITE, BLUE and I got past the code 61 after pressing the white test but and it went to 61 1 as it should then tried closing the door and turned the reset key it went to 65 0 and that's it except it can go into accounting?
I tried another working board from a triple play and no go it that broken machine , and now won't play in the working triple play machine?
I removed both batteries from those boards and the cmos chip  and one comes up with the same 61 and goes no farther , and now the other one comes up with nothing.
I now tried the other working board from the RWB machine in the broken haywire and still no go but the board works in the RWB
I really would like to get the Haywire up and running as it is a favorite.
I have order a new clear chip in case there is a problem with the old one?
Thinking about getting a new haywire board but don't want to ruin it in the machine or waste my money .
So it stands now 2 machines down , I have four other working machines but afraid of switching parts and having them down from that.
Any other thoughts would really be appreciated, Thanks Dave

[Fredsan]

Look at the connectors, both on the board and on the motherboard. Make sure there are no bent pins or dirt or dust on them.  Make sure the boards are seated well when you install them in the machine.


If you have jumpers next to the reel and game chips, make sure they connect the two pins away from the battery side of the board.


This sounds like a contact problem between one of the proms, probably the reel, maybe the CMOS chip. The game chip is what's running the processor, so it looks to be ok since it's going through at least a part of it's program.  The proms and CMOS all share a common data and address bus, so those lines should be ok. I assume there is a chip select line, but my schematics are too poor for me to read. I would continue to look for the problem to be in the CMOS/reel chip to socket connection.

[cyenergy]

Don't go to the mpu yet geeze did it see a door closure yes or no if no take either emitter or receiver off and face them torwards each other if it resets adjust optics . do you have a validator check that switch short the wires or by pass it behind right side of reel three just unplug and plug other end into door harness   belly door check to make sure that switch is making printer if so make sure printer switch is making . total of three switches and one door optic emitter and receiver .

[Badbaud]

If there is a switch inside the cash can door of the bill validator remove the two wires, strip some insulation off of each one, twist them together with a small wire nut.

A 65-0 could also mean a bad EEPROM on the back plane board.

Attached is a layout for the backplane board, make sure all of your connectors are in the proper spot.

[CVslots]

Are we forgetting that this game USED to work? Or am I confused?

[slotmandave]

OK, I have some new things to check, And yes this machine played great until last week , My first question is I have tried these two boards in another working machine that works with its own board and still won't play or reset in that machine, and yet this working board won't work in the non working machine? Also where is the EEprom we talk about.

And while typing this I just found a bent pin on one board so let me see if I can bend it and try it.
Thanks for the input on every thing but I don't think we have it yet, I will update everyone,

THANKS  DAVE

[Badbaud]

The EEPROM is on the backplane board that the MPU board plugs into.

It's a small 8 pin chip, usually soldered to the board.

[slotmandave]

I was back at it tonight, still no luck but I did get one board past the 61 to 61 1 then closed the door hit the reset and got 65 3 then keyed it again and it went to 65 2 but no more just bookkeeping now this was in a good working machine?

Also tried it in the broken machine but now nothing happens? no displays nothing so I switched out the power supply , still nothing? So it has to be a connection? but which one ? I checked them  they looked good?

I am not having fun with this one, but not giving up yet!

Any more thoughts?
THANKS

[rickhunter]

After the 65_2 you have to open the door and hold the reset button for a few seconds.  See the common error procedures here:

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/

[cyenergy]

Way far ahead of yourself here you have door closure right ?
reel one you put in reel 2 did you get a 42 or a 41?

[cyenergy]

Are we forgetting that this game USED to work? Or am I confused?

All games used to work...

[Sunrise Side]

slotmandave,


Can i ask where you are located?     maybe if you would like, maybe there is a member nearby that could stop by and help out?